I/O (Sterndrive) Conversion to Outboards

tphoyt

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Jun 10, 2010
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The last drain I installed I used a curved syringe to soak the wood with penetrating epoxy and installed the sleeve with 5200 in hopes it would remain a wee bit flexible. So far it was been good as far as I know anyway.
 

Pmt133

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Silverton also installed their garboards on the bottom of the hull, installed from the inside much like how Scott showed. Imo, that's the way I'd do it.
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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Silverton also installed their garboards on the bottom of the hull, installed from the inside much like how Scott showed. Imo, that's the way I'd do it.
Agreed especially if there are no engines in there anymore. Had an old penn yann years ago (30+) that had it in the hull bottom was a PITA even with straight 6 ...
 

tpenfield

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OK . . . thanks for the comments.

I'm more concerned about the weep hole (sleeve) that will be between the 2 pieces (hull & extension). I believe surrounding it in 5200, as mentioned may do the trick for longevity.

As for the garboard itself . . . I could go either way, but if on the bottom (of the keel), I'd want it to be recessed in case of a run-ground situation. . . . but where things are at, that train has left the station, unless I'd want to do a bunch of re-work. ( :cautious: )
 

Pmt133

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Based on what I've seen with the current crop of 5200 I used... I wouldn't trust it to not shrink. I think Scott may have some choice things to say about it too. I switched back to boat life for stuff like that.
 

tpenfield

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Splashwells . . .

A unique aspect of the design is that there are stringers directly in line where the engines will mount, as well as stringers to either side. Installing the splashwells seems to be a bit of a challenge given that here will be little/no access to the underside of the wells once they are installed. I also need to provide good access the the inside of the transom for engine mount installation.
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My plan is to install the bottom 'plate of the splashwell onto the stringer and transom.
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I could even give the bottom a slight angle towards one side where there would be a drain hole through the transom.

Then I would drape 3-4 layers of fiberglass over the whole area and allow it to take the shape of a splashwell.

Then I would need to have deck plates as access holes to do some tabbing on the underside, and to provide engine installation access.
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Not sure if there are better ways of doing this, but open for ideas. . . :unsure:
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BTW- My lifting hardware ('U' bolt) looked a little tired yesterday while I was lifting the E-B. I checked the rating on it (320 lbs !!! ooppps) so I got the larger bolts you see in the pictures. (560 lbs each)
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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Ted,

regarding the tube, get a bit of fiberglass tube and glass it in since you are bonding the pod to the hull anyway.

Im in agreement with @Pmt133 .... I cannot and will not support 3M sealants after the repeated failure of my boat which isnt used as often as it should. would hate to see a leak. So if you choose 3M... use at your own risk.

look here for alternatives. I suggest BoatLIFE LifeCaulk https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/marine-sealant-adhesion-tests

reminds me to write the follow up on the 3M failure with pictures, lot codes, etc.
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
14,516
OK . . . thanks for the comments.

I'm more concerned about the weep hole (sleeve) that will be between the 2 pieces (hull & extension). I believe surrounding it in 5200, as mentioned may do the trick for longevity.

As for the garboard itself . . . I could go either way, but if on the bottom (of the keel), I'd want it to be recessed in case of a run-ground situation. . . . but where things are at, that train has left the station, unless I'd want to do a bunch of re-work. ( :cautious: )
Why not two drains, one in old boat vertical and one standard in the new section? I assume you will put a pump in both so that means a drain is appropriate there as well.

Also, is 4200 not more flexible than 5200? Or if want to join there is a silicone ive used a few times, gooey as sh.t but it is still flexible on my sunroom transom windows after 11 years, full southern sun exposure.
 
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flashback

Rear Admiral
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Jun 28, 2002
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4,262
maybe install a vertical bulkhead at the forward end of the splash well space, in other words the aft of the extension becomes the splash well.
 
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