the dividing line on the block and heads is 1990. so anything from 1970 something to 1990 will swap within that time period, and anything post 1991 to when GM stopped making the 3.0 will swap in. the only odd one is the EFI version of the motor.
8 degrees keeps the motor dummy proof from someone using 85 octane fuel with water in it (detonation) and keeps reversion at bay when when the motor is installed in a sterndrive application with a lot of tail load (extended swim platform). the distributor advance of 24 degrees makes the motor...
lack of cooling water is why you overheated. key off and anchor awaiting a tow would have been the best COA
when was the last time the raw water pump was serviced?
1- could have a thermally broken block or heads, could have taken out the bearings and collapsed the pistons. all the rubber...
I use a crank driven water pump as they are standard on VP engines. you can go up in size with them as well. makes changing impellers easy. and removing sediment when you bury the outdrive because you are in skinny water.
you adjust the idle mixture screws to the point where the engine gives you the most vacuum at idle. each engine and carb are unique and need to be tuned in-situ
bayliner build quality was junk in the 80's and 90's. in the early 00's the 25' and smaller bayliners are built in mexico on the same floor as searays
most boats are designed for 15-20 year life expectancy. https://forums.iboats.com/threads/perspective-of-fiberglass-boat-design-life.683703/...
I have concert Tees older than the crew at my last job. New position I got to staff with a few grey-beards that have worked for me in the past. Our little group of 4 puts out more new products than the group of 20 folks in the new product group on the RV side
all manufacturers have recalls going right now. GM, Ford, Stellantis, Toyota, Nissan, Honda......
The world should have listened to Dr Demming more on quality.
stroked version of the 6.2 which was a larger bored version of the 6.0. https://poweredsolutions.gm.com/products/engines/l8t-engine. 4-1/16" bore, and 3.85" stroke (103.25 * 98mm)
that is not even broken in yet...... have you priced a new truck lately?
regarding the calipers. did you clean out the debris from the clips on the pads? that will cause them to bind a bit.
did you service the slide pins? the grease in them gets hard and the slide pins quit sliding.
I wouldn't go down in power or drop down from the Bravo to an Alpha
Two 502 BBCs, or two 6.2s, or two 6.0s or two diesels. Big hulls need torque. 4.3 or 5.0 won't cut it. A pair of supercharged 5.7s maybe.
If you're wanting to go carbed, I would most likely build two 6.2 aluminum LS based...
Last two helms I swapped, not even a 3" bore hydraulic cylinder at 3000 psi could budge the core in the sheath. That is 21,000# of force. Rust is strong
