09' evinrude etec 75HP

[Cas8101]

Ok so I took a gamble on a boat today because i wanted the motor. Hasn't run in a few years but was only able to get the motor to fire for a couple seconds on ether. Could not get it to run off the fuel tank. Fuel tank was my own with fresh fuel. First off I have never owned a motor that is fuel injected or has a computer. So I may be in over my head. Compression checked it, all 3 cylinders around 135psi +\-2psi. That's the good news besides it not being locked up. I paid 400 bucks. I suspect the vapor separator/high pressure fuel pump not working and expect the injectors need to be cleaned. Not sure how to go about trouble shooting this one. Should I just tear into the VST and take a gander or should I take it to the dealer and pay them to run a diagnostic check on it or if this is even possible should I buy my own diagnostic cable and software? Another note, the 4 leds on the EMM the top two lights were not lit when key turned to on position. Since I got a good price I'm prepared to invest some money into this motor but one thing I fear the most is that the EMM is faulty that would be a deal breaker for fixing this motor up do to cost. Any advice is much appreciated.

 

[Rustywrench]

I am going by memory (dangerous at my age)! You need a manual for this model. You should get three of four lights on the EMM. While cranking they should sequence & then go out (like a SystemCheck gauge). When you turn the key on you should hear the electric fuel pump run for app. 4 seconds. If that is not happening no use cranking on motor. Either fuel pump is stuck with gummed fuel or not receiving signal from computer. I believe it receives a ground. You can try running the fuel pump with an outside battery source. It is polarity important as far as fuel flow, buy reversing the leads to the jumper wires may jog the pump loose? If it is gummed up? Technically the VST is not serviceable, but I have seen people go inside and clean them. Be careful if you do. Very expensive part. The vent hose nipple is particularly fragile.

 

[Cas8101]

I am going by memory (dangerous at my age)! You need a manual for this model. You should get three of four lights on the EMM. While cranking they should sequence & then go out (like a SystemCheck gauge). When you turn the key on you should hear the electric fuel pump run for app. 4 seconds. If that is not happening no use cranking on motor. Either fuel pump is stuck with gummed fuel or not receiving signal from computer. I believe it receives a ground. You can try running the fuel pump with an outside battery source. It is polarity important as far as fuel flow, buy reversing the leads to the jumper wires may jog the pump loose? If it is gummed up? Technically the VST is not serviceable, but I have seen people go inside and clean them. Be careful if you do. Very expensive part. The vent hose nipple is particularly fragile.

Solid advice and thanks.

on a side note, want to clean the injectors and was planning on using a DIY 12 volt syringe fed setup but have come to find out that won't work on etec injectors. Anyone recommend a viable option for cleaning them or viable place to have them cleaned by someone who know much more about it than me. Haha

this is a learning curve for me, I'm used to old motors with carburetors and being able to get em going. This dang thing with injectors and a computer that has to tell everything when and how is turning out to be a bit above my pay grade.

 

[Rustywrench]

Well I can understand how it sounds over whelming, but you can do a few things to see where you're at. Like I said have someone turn the key on with the motor cover removed. Listen to see if the electric fuel pump runs for a few seconds & turns off. The electric fuel pump is piggy backed on the VST. You can look at a parts break down to learn the terminology. The motor has two fuel pumps. After you pump up the primer bulb a lift pump supplies fuel to the electric fuel pump at 5 to 7 lbs. It works off crankcase pulses just like the old fuel pumps you are use to on outboard motors. The electric pump is controlled by the computer (switching the ground on & off) to maintain 30 lbs of pressure to the injectors. The injectors pump the fuel in at up to 450 lbs. Now all the extra plumbing is return lines to the VST for the fuel to be cooled. (VST is water cooled, more lines (water))! Easy to tell which is which. Fuel lines will have Odiker clamps (one time use, available at Lowe/HD & tool) on the fuel lines & water hoses will have tyraps.
Like I said before you can try to run your electric fuel pump with a jumper just to see if it's gummed up. If it runs then you have an idea it's a computer problem?
When a DFI motor is out of fuel it can take a bit of purging the lines to get it started. You know it will fire as you fed it ether (not a good idea)! If the pump (electric) will run then just keep pumping the primer bulb & cycling the key by starting the engine in short burst. Eventually the air will be purged & the motor will start.
Got to have the electric pump first!

 

[jakedaawg]

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[Rustywrench]

Actually jakedaawg the injectors on the wrong cylinders will just not let the motor run to its optimum. The computer is programmed to each injectors profile to optimize its performance across the entire RPM band. A lot of the things that happen to the computer (& motor) for that matter will not show up on the codes screen. Like a faulty ground path for the electric fuel pump. The motor can score a cylinder, throw a rod, & not show a code! Mechanical failures in the engine do not set codes. Sensors set codes & they do not always indicate the obvious problem they look like. Not preaching, just don't want to scare this guy to death.

 

[Cas8101]

Thanks for the input guys. Rustywrench why is using ether a bad idea? Because you are getting it to fire with no fuel/oil mix? I won't be using the ether anymore I just did it to verify that the motor would run. My grandpa passed so I will be busy this weekend with the funeral and family but I plan on finding out if the high pressure fuel pump is working or not next week. Gonna change fuel filter and fuel lines and see if I can get this thing lined out. Anyone trust these etec diagnostic cables and software on eBay? I understand it's not the answer to all my problems but think it would be useful to have. Like to see the motors history to know a little more about what I have.

 

[Rustywrench]

I don't like starting fluid in anything, but particularly in two strokes with reeds. When a motor has not been run in a while it may not have any lube left in it. Dry fires are not good.
Sorry for your loss. Just keep us posted when you proceed.
I am headed out of town myself for the first week of Aug. so you may not hear much out of me either?
Yes, I think it would be helpful to know the history of the motor & stored codes (overheats, etc) could help you figure out where to go from there.

 

[Cas8101]

Well I did pull the plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder before using the ether to get it to pop off. And thanks for all the input and will definitely keep y'all updated.

 

[Wkd179]

You must be very careful when preforming tests such as spark compression as its very easy to damage electronic parts if not done correctly. I suggest ordering a service manual and pay close attention to the safety warnings

 

[racerone]

The motor injects nearly pure gasoline into the cylinders.------E-tecs do not run on 50:1 mix.------A computer driven pump injects oil as needed / where needed.

 

[Cas8101]

Thanks for the info guys. I got a service manual. Haven't had a chance to get back to work on this motor yet. Work has been crazy.