100 lbs compression 1989 Evinrude 70HP worth going further?

[TwoRivers]

Looking for some direction? Just picked up a 16ft. Bass Tracker with a 70 hp Evinrude Tracker outboard. From the model # TJ70TLCEM looks to be from 1989?
Just started looking into it and I'm trying to determine how far to go with this engine.
It is getting fuel.
There is no spark at the plugs.
I did a compression test and there is 100 lbs of pressure in all three cylinders.
I've read stories about compression not being that important in 2 strokes but I'm trying to determine if this reading is acceptable before proceeding further?
So my question : Is 100 lbs of pressure in each cylinder acceptable or can I tell from the reading if this motor worn out?
I don't want to waste a lot of time and cash figuring out the ignition or electrical problem(s) if there is a problem with the compression?
thanks in advance
rob

 

[Dali30]

that is 6bar of pressure and its little low,not under 7,5-8bar imo

 

[Robert Ellis]

I think I read somewhere that for an engine that doesn't start ... you can mix up a bit of thickish gas oil mixture (25:1 maybe) and pour a reasonable amt (1/4 cup maybe) in each spark plug hole. Rotate the cs 20 or so revolutions (spark plugs out) and then test your compression - I think the idea is to free up the rings a bit and coat the cylinder walls with a bit of oil. Apparently it more closely emanates a running engine this way. You may find the compression increases to a more favorable reading. It's very encouraging that all cylinders are the same.

Oh ... any chance that the 'tester' is reading a little low? ... easy to test that on a 'known' motor.

 

[TwoRivers]

I think I read somewhere that for an engine that doesn't start ... you can mix up a bit of thickish gas oil mixture (25:1 maybe) and pour a reasonable amt (1/4 cup maybe) in each spark plug hole. Rotate the cs 20 or so revolutions (spark plugs out) and then test your compression - I think the idea is to free up the rings a bit and coat the cylinder walls with a bit of oil. Apparently it more closely emanates a running engine this way. You may find the compression increases to a more favorable reading. It's very encouraging that all cylinders are the same.

Oh ... any chance that the 'tester' is reading a little low? ... easy to test that on a 'known' motor.

Thanks for your response. I sprayed each sparkplug hole with a generous amount of SeaFoam spray which claims to be a fogging oil? I rotated the flywheel by hand maybe twenty revolutions then let it set overnight before taking the compression reading.
I'll lubing it some more and try again. Yes, I thought it was good that the cylinders tested the same.
The tester is an el cheapo Harbor Freight unit but it tested my 30hp Tohatsu at 150lbs per cylinder?
Just trying to figure out what I have to start with as I figure the ignition testing will get involved?
thanks
rob

 

[TwoRivers]

I think I read somewhere that for an engine that doesn't start ... you can mix up a bit of thickish gas oil mixture (25:1 maybe) and pour a reasonable amt (1/4 cup maybe) in each spark plug hole. Rotate the cs 20 or so revolutions (spark plugs out) and then test your compression - I think the idea is to free up the rings a bit and coat the cylinder walls with a bit of oil. Apparently it more closely emanates a running engine this way. You may find the compression increases to a more favorable reading. It's very encouraging that all cylinders are the same.

Oh ... any chance that the 'tester' is reading a little low? ... easy to test that on a 'known' motor.

OK:
Have an update.
Went out and tested again.
Tester shows 110, 110, 110.
Maybe the SeaFoam is working?
Anyways, a little better but is 110 acceptable?
Many thanks
rob

 

[jakedaawg]

Yep 110 is slightly low but fine as long as even accross the three. Ndxt is to trouble shoot the no spark. Start by testing the stop circuit (blk/yellow) as per manual.

 

[TwoRivers]

Yep 110 is slightly low but fine as long as even accross the three. Ndxt is to trouble shoot the no spark. Start by testing the stop circuit (blk/yellow) as per manual.

Just ordered a factory manual from ebay. Should be here by the end of the week.
So you think I might be OK with 110?
What would be considered good?
Just some more info. The motor has been sitting outside since 2011.
I took the plugs out before trying to turn it over and when I did it turned easily.
Wonder if the compression might improve once running?
thanks
rob

 

[Robert Ellis]

I hear what you say about not wanting to spend a bunch of cash only to find out the motor's too far gone. It's a tough decision (one thing I like about the mid 60s motors I use is no pricey electronic ignition parts to worry about).
You mention it being outside for a few years. What climate was it in? Was it sitting on it's motor mounts (high and dry) or lying on its side in the weeds and totally covered in snow and ice? What shape is the cover and seal in - does it look like it could been letting water in? Any signs of damage from bugs or rodents (mice seem to love to chew those wires - what's up with that)? Is the prop in good shape?
One way to look at is to go for it and make a deal with yourself that if it doesn't work out ..... you'll buy as close to that same motor as you can get ... that way you'll have a parts motor and new ignition parts etc for the new one. It'll still hurt the wallet but .... trying to revive this wouldn't be a total loss.

 

[jakedaawg]

I have a couple customers that only pull their boats out of storage every three or four years, some have sat for much longer. The record so far for one of my winterizations starting right up and running fine is six years so your not doing to bad if someone at least attemted to do some pre-storage maitenance on it. Even if they didn't you will probably be just fine.

Do you know if the motor was running when it got put to bed?

 

[TwoRivers]

I hear what you say about not wanting to spend a bunch of cash only to find out the motor's too far gone. It's a tough decision (one thing I like about the mid 60s motors I use is no pricey electronic ignition parts to worry about).
You mention it being outside for a few years. What climate was it in? Was it sitting on it's motor mounts (high and dry) or lying on its side in the weeds and totally covered in snow and ice? What shape is the cover and seal in - does it look like it could been letting water in? Any signs of damage from bugs or rodents (mice seem to love to chew those wires - what's up with that)? Is the prop in good shape?
One way to look at is to go for it and make a deal with yourself that if it doesn't work out ..... you'll buy as close to that same motor as you can get ... that way you'll have a parts motor and new ignition parts etc for the new one. It'll still hurt the wallet but .... trying to revive this wouldn't be a total loss.

The boat was covered with the motor mounted to it and stored outside on a farm in Western Pa. The motor was fogged and lower unit oil was changed before storage. It was not running when it was put up. It suddenly quit running and the PO didn't want to mess with it and bought a new boat.The marina where he bought the new boat didn't want to give him anything for this boat on trade so he parked it. Seems like PO tried to properly maintain the boat and motor. There are no signs of mice (Just a wasp nest in the trailer channel). The motor looks good with the cowl off. Very clean, linkages. cables and shifter work smoothly. The cover is a little faded from the sun but I've seen worse. Cowl seal is in good shape. Tilt and trim work from the controls but not from the motor. Probably just needs a switch? All the wires and hoses look good. The prop is a newer stainless one.
I have a 1997 Evinrude 50 sitting in my garage. I know it's a good motor.
I was hoping to get the 70 running and sell the 50 to help with the Tracker restoration. Not sure if any parts between the two motors will interchange?
Trying to determine if the 70 is worth sinking some money into?
thanks
rob.

 

[TwoRivers]

I have a couple customers that only pull their boats out of storage every three or four years, some have sat for much longer. The record so far for one of my winterizations starting right up and running fine is six years so your not doing to bad if someone at least attemted to do some pre-storage maitenance on it. Even if they didn't you will probably be just fine.

Do you know if the motor was running when it got put to bed?

Motor was not running but was stored properly. Previous owner thought it was an ignition problem (maybe stator) but didn't want to put any money into older boat. He bought a new one.

 

[jakedaawg]

So, time to get a manual and follow trouble shooting. Could be as simple as a key switch. You will need a DVA adaptor for your multimeter or a peak reading voltmeter. You will also need to make some jumper wires for the amphenol connectors. I think you need a total of four different colored jumpers, male to female, about 10"s long.

The first step is to test the stop circuit so get the wires made and I will post directions for you this evening I hope.

 

[TwoRivers]

So, time to get a manual and follow trouble shooting. Could be as simple as a key switch. You will need a DVA adaptor for your multimeter or a peak reading voltmeter. You will also need to make some jumper wires for the amphenol connectors. I think you need a total of four different colored jumpers, male to female, about 10"s long.

The first step is to test the stop circuit so get the wires made and I will post directions for you this evening I hope.

Manual has shipped and will be here tomorrow or Thursday? I'll make up some new jumpers. Looking to pick up or make a DVA adaptor.
thanks for your help
rob

 

[Robert Ellis]

From your description of the motor and the way it was stored imo it is well worth putting some dollars into .... particularly as jakedaawg is willing to help you with the ignition troubleshooting process. It sounds like the first few steps are very cost effective ... after that who knows .... have you looked into the price of new stator etc to see how expensive it could get?

 

[TwoRivers]

From your description of the motor and the way it was stored imo it is well worth putting some dollars into .... particularly as jakedaawg is willing to help you with the ignition troubleshooting process. It sounds like the first few steps are very cost effective ... after that who knows .... have you looked into the price of new stator etc to see how expensive it could get?

New stator assembly around $250 new.
Looks like the PO did some credit card troubleshooting. Appears to be a brand new Power Pack from CDI.
Coil wires look new, maybe even a few coils?

 

[Robert Ellis]

ouch! re the stator (makes me very happy to have the old magneto style ignition - new points, condensers, coils, wires, plug boots and connectors ... all for <$100). Hopefully you'll get lucky with safety switch or key switch! Very nice to have those newer components in there thanks to PO.

 

[Robert Ellis]

I was thinking about things that might help you decide wether to invest in new ignition pricey items or not ... if it comes to that. Thinking of your lower unit ... I have no experience with what yours is but things about mine might apply to yours as well. Does shifting it into forward and reverse seem to engage the prop properly (you may have to turn the prop a little to get it to change gear but once it is in gear does it seem nicely engaged in gear or spin free and easy if in neutral? Also, assuming its full of oil .... if you remove only the bottom drain screw ... does the oil pour out or merely kinda drip out. If it pours out in a steady stream, you're going to need new seals. If it just kinda dribbles out ... the seals MIGHT be ok ... after the oil is out you could always find a way to pressure test it for seal integrity.

 

[jakedaawg]

This is assuming you have the lanyard installed. If you had no spark on any cylinder useing an open air gap spark tester the next step is to test the stop circuit.

unplug the 5 pin amphenol connector coming the stator going to the power pack.

Using your new jumper wires jump all of the pins except the one with the black/yellow wire. that would be terminal E or the one in the middle on the bottom. Crank the engine and see if you have spark on your tester.

Report back.

A little rubbing alcohol allows you to reconnect am phenol connectors more easily.

 

[vinnie1234]

Don't know if someone already posted this or not, I just skimmed over it, but if your compression goes up by 10-15% with a "wet" test, you have worn piston rings. you are looking at an engine job.

 

[TwoRivers]

This is assuming you have the lanyard installed. If you had no spark on any cylinder useing an open air gap spark tester the next step is to test the stop circuit.

unplug the 5 pin amphenol connector coming the stator going to the power pack.

Using your new jumper wires jump all of the pins except the one with the black/yellow wire. that would be terminal E or the one in the middle on the bottom. Crank the engine and see if you have spark on your tester.

Report back.

A little rubbing alcohol allows you to reconnect am phenol connectors more easily.

Thanks dawg. I was wondering how to disconnect the black/yellow wire.
I'll do that and see where I am.