Atoyot1031
Cadet
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2012
- Messages
- 9
I've been lurking this summer as I've been working on my first boat. I've picked up a lot of great tech via search, and I'm greatful for the knowledge base. So thanks! Now I've got a couple questions.
I've got a 1987 Mercury 116 on a 17' 1977 Lund. When I bought the motor, it ran on muffs. Before I started it, I did the following PM: rebuild carbs (also plugged economizer & opened port), rebuilt fuel pump, rewired mercontrol, replaced mercontrol cable, replaced both control cables, replaced R&P steering, replaced spark plugs, replaced starter pinion gear, link and sync, removed idle stabilizer, and removed mercury kill switch.
I live at 8,000' and the lake is at 9,000'. I got it running well on muffs, and took it out on the lake. It didn't want to idle, and if I gave it over 1/2 throttle it would bogg out. I messed with mixture and timing to no avail. I did not try squeezing the bulb. After I got5 home, I broke out the FSM and tested the stator and trigger plate with my multimeter for ohms. Trigger plate was fine, but stator tested out bad. I replaced it, adn took it back out on the lake. Small improvement, but problem was still there. Again I didn't squeeze the primer bulb when running on the lake.
After I got home again, I tested the voltage rectifier using the FSM matrix and my multimeter. It tested out bad, so I replaced that. To ensure that fuel delivery wasn't an issue, I also replaced all fuel lines back to the tank with 3/8" up to the tee (after the fuel pump) between carbs #1 & #2. Line between carbs is 5/16". I also followed some online instructions and build a DVA adapter for my multimeter. Last night, I tested the switch boxes and coils according to FSM, and received the following results:
Coils should read 150-250VDC (<1k RPMs), 180-280VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine all (1-6) read 50-60VDC (<1k RPMs), 90-105VDC (>1kRPMs).
Switch Box Stop Circuit should read 200-360VDC (<1k RPMs), 200-360VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine read 120VDC (<1k RPMs), 220VDC (>1k RPMs).
Stator Low Speed should read 200-360VDC (<1k RPMs), 200-360VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine read 120VDC (<1k RPMs), 215VDC (>1k RPMs).
Stator High Speed should read 20-90VDC (<1k RPMs), 130-300VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine read 120VDC (<1k RPMs), 215VDC (>1k RPMs).
Switch Box bias should read 2-10VDC (<1k RPMs), 10-30VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine read 12VDC (<1k RPMs), 21VDC (>1k RPMs).
Prior to testing, I also hooked up a timing light and observed the strobe on all 6 cylinders. It appeared to me that 1-3-5 were a little erratic, but the motor sounds great when it is running. Following that observation, I ordered a switch box as a precaution.
Do the test results mean that both switch boxes are bad? I'd like some opinions before I go spending any more cash.
Thanks again!
Nick
I've got a 1987 Mercury 116 on a 17' 1977 Lund. When I bought the motor, it ran on muffs. Before I started it, I did the following PM: rebuild carbs (also plugged economizer & opened port), rebuilt fuel pump, rewired mercontrol, replaced mercontrol cable, replaced both control cables, replaced R&P steering, replaced spark plugs, replaced starter pinion gear, link and sync, removed idle stabilizer, and removed mercury kill switch.
I live at 8,000' and the lake is at 9,000'. I got it running well on muffs, and took it out on the lake. It didn't want to idle, and if I gave it over 1/2 throttle it would bogg out. I messed with mixture and timing to no avail. I did not try squeezing the bulb. After I got5 home, I broke out the FSM and tested the stator and trigger plate with my multimeter for ohms. Trigger plate was fine, but stator tested out bad. I replaced it, adn took it back out on the lake. Small improvement, but problem was still there. Again I didn't squeeze the primer bulb when running on the lake.
After I got home again, I tested the voltage rectifier using the FSM matrix and my multimeter. It tested out bad, so I replaced that. To ensure that fuel delivery wasn't an issue, I also replaced all fuel lines back to the tank with 3/8" up to the tee (after the fuel pump) between carbs #1 & #2. Line between carbs is 5/16". I also followed some online instructions and build a DVA adapter for my multimeter. Last night, I tested the switch boxes and coils according to FSM, and received the following results:
Coils should read 150-250VDC (<1k RPMs), 180-280VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine all (1-6) read 50-60VDC (<1k RPMs), 90-105VDC (>1kRPMs).
Switch Box Stop Circuit should read 200-360VDC (<1k RPMs), 200-360VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine read 120VDC (<1k RPMs), 220VDC (>1k RPMs).
Stator Low Speed should read 200-360VDC (<1k RPMs), 200-360VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine read 120VDC (<1k RPMs), 215VDC (>1k RPMs).
Stator High Speed should read 20-90VDC (<1k RPMs), 130-300VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine read 120VDC (<1k RPMs), 215VDC (>1k RPMs).
Switch Box bias should read 2-10VDC (<1k RPMs), 10-30VDC (>1k RPMs). Mine read 12VDC (<1k RPMs), 21VDC (>1k RPMs).
Prior to testing, I also hooked up a timing light and observed the strobe on all 6 cylinders. It appeared to me that 1-3-5 were a little erratic, but the motor sounds great when it is running. Following that observation, I ordered a switch box as a precaution.
Do the test results mean that both switch boxes are bad? I'd like some opinions before I go spending any more cash.
Thanks again!
Nick