13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

Hockey9019

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May 18, 2012
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First, I want to apologize for making 2 different threads. For some reason, I put it in the wrong section, and then it wouldn't allow me to edit it

I have a 13' Meyers aluminum boat that I recently picked up.


I noticed on the last few times I have taken it out that I have gotten a little bit of water in the boat. Nothing major, just more of an annoyance than anything.

With the recent rain, I went to empty the boat out and when I tilted it, in hopes of seeing where it was leaking, I noticed it was coming out from the transom area.

No biggie, unscrew and unbolt a few things and remove it

Now should I go and get a piece of aluminum and have it mounted over the back and then just re-drill the holes for the wood?

I would also like to make the transom go completely across the back of the boat since I am picking up a 1963 5.5 Evinrude and want to run my 40# Minn Kota trolling motor still.

I know its been discussed, but there were a few different answers.

What would be my best option for replacing the transom? What type of wood? Do I need to treat/paint it? I would like to be able to go to Home Depot and Lowes to pick it up versus ordering online.

Also. what kind of speeds is common for a 5.5hp Evinrude?

Thanks everyone for the input




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dozerII

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Oct 25, 2009
Messages
6,527
Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

Welcome Hockey, you say it is leaking, where is it leaking? If it is a loose rivet, you can rebuck it with a hammer and steel block for a backer. If it is a seem you can use Gluvit or Coatit, If it is a crack you can get it welded. For the transom just glue a couple pieces of
3/4" ply ( don't use pressure treated wood it will corrode the aluminum) together to the size you require, seal them up real good with 3 coats of Spar varnish on the flats and hit the edges at each coat and that will give them 6 coats. Then install it in the boat with stainless steel bolts washers and nylock nut.
 

series60

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Jan 4, 2010
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Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

That 5.5 hp outboard will move you along well enough but it won't plane. Maybe 10mph.
 

Hockey9019

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Joined
May 18, 2012
Messages
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Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

Welcome Hockey, you say it is leaking, where is it leaking? If it is a loose rivet, you can rebuck it with a hammer and steel block for a backer. If it is a seem you can use Gluvit or Coatit, If it is a crack you can get it welded. For the transom just glue a couple pieces of
3/4" ply ( don't use pressure treated wood it will corrode the aluminum) together to the size you require, seal them up real good with 3 coats of Spar varnish on the flats and hit the edges at each coat and that will give them 6 coats. Then install it in the boat with stainless steel bolts washers and nylock nut.

For the leak wise...I'm not quite sure yet. I just noticed when I tip my boat upwards, that is where I notice water. Here's a current picture as of this am. I left the water in there to see the level change and its barely changed so its a small leak I'm thinking. I haven't removed the wood yet.

Also, is a drain plug necessary do you think?

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etracer68

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Oct 11, 2009
Messages
906
Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

While the boat is out of the water, the bow should always up, and drain plug out. This way it can drain on its own. Without a drian plug, how would you ever drain the boat?
 

Hockey9019

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May 18, 2012
Messages
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Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

While the boat is out of the water, the bow should always up, and drain plug out. This way it can drain on its own. Without a drian plug, how would you ever drain the boat?
Very true I was thinking about installing a bilge pump as well but thought that may be a little excessive for just an aluminum boat
 

etracer68

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Oct 11, 2009
Messages
906
Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

First, I dont even see a drain plug, unless its off to the side. Looks to me like you have leaking bolts, that go through, holding the piece of rotted wood on.
 

Hockey9019

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May 18, 2012
Messages
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Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

First, I dont even see a drain plug, unless its off to the side. Looks to me like you have leaking bolts, that go through, holding the piece of rotted wood on.

That would be correct I just picked the boat up a couple weeks ago and haven't had much time to work on it I wanted to make sure it didn't have any major leaks or problems. I'm installing one this week
 

etracer68

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Oct 11, 2009
Messages
906
Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

Put that ham sandwich down, and get your boat ready, the summer if slipping away. Hope you have good luck fishing or just being on the lake.
 

series60

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Messages
420
Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

For the leak wise...I'm not quite sure yet. I just noticed when I tip my boat upwards, that is where I notice water. Here's a current picture as of this am. I left the water in there to see the level change and its barely changed so its a small leak I'm thinking. I haven't removed the wood yet.

Also, is a drain plug necessary do you think?

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I would take what looks like 6 carriage bolts out. Fabricate an aluminum transom piece for the outside and a new wood transom for the inside. As mentioned laminate two 3/4 plys together and cut to fit. (make a cardboard pattern first). Seal the wood with spar varnish or something like. Re-install with new SS carriage bolts washers and nylock nuts. Seal the holes with 3M 4200. If you're interested in how to laminate the plys have a look here. About 1/4 way down the page.

Like wise I do not see a drain hole. Manufacture's thinking is with such a small boat just tip it over in the yard. (not the smartest thinking)
 

Hockey9019

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May 18, 2012
Messages
8
Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

What would be the appropriate thickness for the aluminum to be for the outside? Can I just make the sheet go nearly to the bottom of the boat?

I know a few people that can weld so that mount that on the outside, and then place the two 3/4" plywood on the inside, correct?

How many carriage bolts do you think I should use if I wanted a larger transom area? 6-8?

Thanks again for all the information, I greatly appreciate it
 

series60

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Re: 13' Meyers aluminum boat, small leak at the Transom: Replacing and repairing?

What would be the appropriate thickness for the aluminum to be for the outside? Can I just make the sheet go nearly to the bottom of the boat?

1/8" thick aluminum should be enough and I might make it just a little bigger than the wooden piece you remove from the outside. It looks like there are 8 bolts holding the wood on. Don't put any more holes in the transom than necessary.

I know a few people that can weld so that mount that on the outside, and then place the two 3/4" plywood on the inside, correct?

I would not weld the aluminum to the outside. Welding aluminum is difficult and the thickness of the transom metal is very thin. You have the potential for making things much worse.

How many carriage bolts do you think I should use if I wanted a larger transom area? 6-8?

Use the same holes to bolt the aluminum plate and the new inside transom wood together. If you extend the ply on the inside to the edge of the transom then you can use 2 bolts at either end to finish the job. Remember to seal each bolt hole with 3M 4200 or even 5200.

Post another picture of the inside of the transom and maybe I could give you a more definitive answer. I don't see any knees or gussets on the inside of the transom so that boat won't take much more than a 10 hp outboard if that. Are there any placards indicating horsepower rating? If that 5.5hp Evinrude doesn't run there is help here for that too, just so you know.
 
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