14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
I would just like to say that I have been lurking on this site off and on for the past 6 or 7 months. I finally joined the other day ‘cause I knew that I was going to need help with this whole thing.
My nautical terminology is virtually non existent, and my knowledge of fiberglass comes solely from reading this site for the past while. This site is second to none!

I know (pretty well) what I want to do… but I am not sure how to go about it.

The boat has some rot issues. I am trying like hell to get all the rotted wood out and replace it with half way decent replacements. The wood that is in question is sandwiched in the side benches and rear bench. The floor (I started cutting it away today…) and the casting deck.
creek003em8.jpg


There is also a piece of wood that is encased in fiberglass that runs down the middle of the boat like a spine at the top side of the shell on the inside of the boat, (I assume that this is referred to as a stringer) the section that I have seen is water logged and punky.

creek004sg8.jpg

creek021yf6.jpg




This leads to my first question;

1) If it is rotted only say… 5 feet of the total 14… do I have to replace the who shebang? Can I join a new piece to the existing and still be structurally sound?

Next; I am not going to change the layout of the interior of the boat… much… I will extend the left side bench/storage area to join the back bench so it can accommodate full length fishing rods. It will grow from 48 inches long to 84 inches long. I figured I would only do it on the left side due to me needing leg room to steer my outboard while sitting on the right side of the boat. 36 inches is nice leg room for a guy like me who is 6 foot 3 inches…

But the wood in both benches are not so great and need replacing… This leads to my second question;

2) Can I just dig out all the wood from these benches and leave the existing fiberglass shell (which appears to be quite strong and in excellent condition), then insert the new wood (ha ha.. I said “insert the new wood”…) then fiberglass it in?

Now for the floor. I have removed parts of it in an exploratory type excursion. I have left a bit of a lip or old fiberglass where the floor joined the inner shell of the boat;

3) Is it imperative that I grind that stuff off right to the shell?

4) Another somewhat embarrassing question I have is… how do I lay down the floor? Do I nail it into the stringer down the center? Then I glass it to the shell? Is that enough? I was thinking about putting Styrofoam down either side of the stringer for buoyancy and less cold coming up trough the floor. Saw some one else do that on this site!

The casting deck… The previous owner slammed a hole in it to accommodate a seat post.

creek006br7.jpg


Is that really necessary? Aren’t there surface mounts that disperse the weight enough? Looking into the hole, I can see that there is a mess of Styrofoam in there that will likely need to be replaced.

I have pictures posted of my boat, and if you look at the nose, can anyone give me a suggestion how to mount my trolling motor? That red plastic-y fiberglass trim is not very strong. I could just put some kind of wood monstrosity…. But I think that it would look like arse… When I bought the thing (Minn Kota Power Drive 40 Bow Mount), I did not think how hard it would be to mount in a proper and aesthetically pleasing manor!

I am quite perplexed about the design of fiberglass boats like mine. From everything I have read, both here and other places, the cardinal sin of boat making, maintenance, designing and just general care is; Keep out water. Do not let it get in. If it does, make sure it has a quick way out. Never give it the opportunity to pool. If I look at mine and many other boats like mine, they have a floor to give you a flat surface to stand on (I assume that is why anyway…), this leaves a cavity between the boat’s shell and the floor. Everything is sealed up nicely and there are grooves on either side of the floor to channel the water all the way to the back of the boat until you get to the back bench and also to the transom. There is a hole with a brass rim just forward of the back bench to let any pooled water in to that cavity and I suppose that the idea is to let it flow back to where the plug it. Open the plug while you are WOT on the water and she drains as pretty as you please. But this makes no sense at all to me. All that water can go to the front of the boat and will in certain conditions (And certainly has on mine). All that work to seal the front 2/3rds of the boat for nothing! Why wouldn’t there be a couple of holes that would allow the water to pass through the back bench instead? I am inclined to make sure that no matter the angle that the boat happened to be on, that there is no way that any water can get into that cavity.

I understand that the plug hole is below the deck’s level, but if the groves that run the length of either side of the boat’s floor all lead to a approximately 10inch by 12 inch bowl like dip in the floor would help channel the water right to the plug area. This would be SEALED!

Is there a flaw in my thinking?

Thanks for reading… sorry for so many questions… but I can assure you that I will be posting more questions and pictures of my progress or lack there of.

BTW; This is my first boat EVER!
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

I forgot to mention; I painted the outside of the hull with cheap paint. I know, I know... I will have to repaint it properly sooner rather than later!

I wish I had a before picture of both the trailer AND the boat! Damn!

creek007ca1.jpg
 

bonz_d

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
5,276
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

Welcome cprince,

1st really like the design of your hull and the interior layout. Looks like a great fishing platform, dry and stable.

I think you should consider tearing out that casting deck to get to that foam for inspection and removall if needed. Then rebuild it and glass it in. The seat pedistals come in two basic designs. One has a flat base with a stationary post and the other uses a flat base with a pin type post that is removable. These require a hole to accept the recess in the base for the pin.

Might also consider cutting out the rear bench seat (carefully with a die grinder) to gain access to the wood decking under that seat area. Then reglass the bench back in place.

I would cut the whole floor out and rebuild it.
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

Thanks for the welcome!

Cutting into the bench to get at the rest of the floor is exactly what I was thinking too. I am just not sure about the stringer more than anything (Question number 1).

I also figure that I would not be able to sleep at night without cutting open the casting deck to get a good look-see inside to see if there are hidden bails of cash as this boat might have been used to run drugs from Columbia to Montreal (Three hour trip with a 25hp nitro-injected 'Rude) or big chunks of foam doodies left behind by the carnival prize Styrofoam stuffed dog and panda mixed race family that more likely owned the boat.

3/4 inch plywood to replace the surface of the casting deck I would think... yes?

Craig
 

bonz_d

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
5,276
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

Still think it would be best to cut out the whole floor then that would give a better indication as to how much of the stringer needs to be removed and replaced.
As to the casting deck I would think 1/2 to 3/4" depending on how well supported it is underneath.

As to the stringer repair itself, hopefully one of our more seasoned members will jump in.
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

Still think it would be best to cut out the whole floor then that would give a better indication as to how much of the stringer needs to be removed and replaced.
As to the casting deck I would think 1/2 to 3/4" depending on how well supported it is underneath.

As to the stringer repair itself, hopefully one of our more seasoned members will jump in.

Yep!

I will cut and grind it all out. I suppose I will do more research in this forum for what type of foam to use to replace the bulkhead foam.

I am still busting my brain about how to fasten my bow mount to the bow! I have seen some ideas on this forum, but still unsure about what exactly I'll do. I have seen many "Off-set" style bow mounts and think that it would be the easiest solution... I am just not sure about how they perform being off center and all... does that make it more squirrelly and harder to control in the wind or currents?

The bow mount is a 40lbs thrust long shaft and the boat is 14' 250 lbs dry.
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

I was able to rip out the rest of the decking and the casting deck/bulkhead. The foam was pitted and stiff. There was not enough of it IMHO. What a mess. The stringer is a little bit of a mystery to me. It looks too short to me. I will post a pic of it later today, but it just doesn't look long enough. Not only that, both ends of the string are not glassed. What the hell?!

I started a blog to keep track of my progress and where I can post a bunch a pictures.

Enjoy!

Any suggestions comments or criticisms would be welcomed with open arms.

I really don't know what the hell I am doing.

http://princescraft.blogspot.com/
 

jennis9

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
396
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

If you do rip out that deck area, might be a good place to design in a little storage. Measure your tackle before you design it though so everything will fit in easily. Good luck - looks like a nice boat project.
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

If you do rip out that deck area, might be a good place to design in a little storage. Measure your tackle before you design it though so everything will fit in easily. Good luck - looks like a nice boat project.

Deck area is now ripped! Here is some photographic evidence;

daytwopoint2001ni2.jpg


Does anyone reading this thread think that the stringer stops too soon at the bow? I would have thought it to continue into the groove until the bow starts to angle up.

Perhaps my replacement stringer will be a bit longer.

I am open to any design suggestions, but as you can see I have decided to lengthen the left side locker, that is why it is cut out, to accommodate fully assembled fishing rods. But beyond wanting a casting deck, nothing is set in stone (Fiberglass) yet!
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Messages
51,019
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

in my opinion it should run the full length.
 

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cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

in my opinion it should run the full length.

Me thinks you is right!

I will replace it with an extended version. Unlike most albums put out by Guns 'n Roses, this extended version will have a point!

This is what my boat looks like at the end of day three of renovations;
daythree007zf0.jpg


I updated my Boat Blog with more pics and scripted the trials and tribulations of customizing a boat in suburbia!


http://princescraft.blogspot.com/

Thanks for the comments. All comments help and are welcomed!

As I have said before; I really don't know what the hell I am doing.
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

I am answering to some posts from another thread I was at risk of hijacking!
( http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=253449 )

@ oops!

Is this the Boat Rot thread you are talking about? When talking about "Foam", is Styrofoam included?
Perhaps the Boat Rot thread could be made into a sticky or put into a Boat Restoration and Building FAQ.

@ Coors
Bodo's soda bottles... I read some posts that referred to that but I honestly (And with all due respect to Bondo) thought it was a joke. Is this the thread?
There seem to be some cons to the soda bottle solution if you live in a cold climate... I do live in Canada... Eh!

@ salty87
The plate mount idea was exactly what I was contemplating... I have not found too many details about what kind of bracing is involved. After all the reading I have done on this board, I have come to the conclusion that there is no way to avoid water getting into every nook and cranny of the boat and that making it's path of egress the quickest and easiest possible is the only sane way to do the rebuild.

Other than bottles under the casting deck... is that the only additional (reasonable) flotation I should consider?


BTW
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

I am still fishing for floor plan and casting deck configuration suggestions!
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

Finaly got two days of work in. Probably have at least two more to go. This glassing stuff... aint easy!!

Anyone ever use CADOX M50A? Smells quite nice. I think I will ware some behind my ears tonight.

This is from my blog. This is why I explain some of the terms that you are all familiar with.
----------------------

So the day finally came;

No ruptured back muscles?

Check.

No jobs to do for Mom and Dad?

Check.

No torrential down pours in the forecast?

Check.


Well hot damn! I have a green light!!!!

So I started on Friday. I purchased 2 4x4 sheets of 1/2 inch plywood at the local big box lumber store (RONA). They have a policy that they lend you their trailer for free for up to 2hrs. Good deal! Can't fit too many sheets of ply in the Imp!

So I got the plywood and I bought some supplies like decking screws, acetone, rollers and a painters pan with plastic liner inserts. (More on that later)

I started at about 3pm. I diligently took measurements and did my best to make the right cuts the first time. It turned out.. well.. I will say; "OK". I may have enough wood left over to redo the casting deck platform as it is a little wonky looking... too much space between the edge of the wood and the side of the hull.

So Friday consisted of me cutting out all the wood parts. I stayed with only the essentials; Stringer, floor, casting deck. If that looks all right after glassing, then I will use what I have left for the extended locker and lids.

Saturday, I went to my friends house to pick up the mystery fiberglass supplies. I say mystery as he did not know if it was polyester or epoxy. Turns out that it is polyester. It is called CADOX M50A. This is what I kind of feared. From everything I have read, epoxy is the way to go. But beggars will not be choosers in this case. The matt was incredible. It is the thickest stuff I have seen. I believe that it is 18 or 20 oz. He uses it at work to make molds for custom cement panels and pieces. So you know its strong!

I grounded out the remaining crap that was left over from the rotted out stringer and floor. This took MUCH longer than anticipated. But I know that prepping to the nth degree is well worth it.

By the time 3:30 rolled around, I was ready to lay some peanut butter in the stringer groove. Sharp scissors are a must when making this concoction. I chopped some matt nice and fine into the painters pan and added some resin. I have never done this, so I was not sure how much I would need. Once I had the resin and matt mixed, I then added the catalyst (Hardener). I was cautioned by my buddy that it only takes a few drops. I was cautioned on the boat restoration board that 1% is the proper mixture. Well... they were right!

I slopped it into the groove and stuck the stringer in the sludge. I used an old plastic putty knife to slather it in. It worked quite well until the glass started to kick. "Kick" means that the hardener is starting to do what it is designed to do. Is gets super heated through the chemical reaction while it hardens like The Rock of Gibraltar. Did I mention that is gets super heated? My poor plastic yellow putty knife... May it rest in peace.

So I have to say that it went quite well. The next part... no so well.

At this point I am feeling kind of cocky and I thought that perhaps I was born to glass. So I cut a 9 foot by 16 inch length of matt and this was going to cover the stringer and give it added integrity. Yes.. one big honking' piece of matt.

I acetoned the area and I mixed a big bunch of resin and catalyst. I used the nice little foam roller to lay on the resin on the hull. This spread nicely. I then laid the matt on to of this wet area. Pulled it tight with no wrinkles and started to roll on more resin. At this point I noticed chunks being left behind as I rolled along... what was that? AAaarggh! It was my nice little foam roller disintegrating from the chemical concoction that was the resin. I switched to another roller... a yellow one.. like my putty knife.

well, to make a long story short. I mutilated the job. The top of the stringer would not bond to the glass matt. Every time I run over the matt, it sticks for about 2.5 seconds and pops up about 1/32 nd of an inch. This is the running theme for the length of the stringer. Did I mention the bubbles?

At this point I am questioning the decision I made to use one whole piece of matt. Good thought but WAY too late! I did my best with the mess... and I still must say.. I mix a hell of a resin. It took a while to kick! I would say that it kicked after about 25 mins. This is supposed to be the sweet spot as if it kicks too quick, the result is too brittle.

Tomorrow's plan is to put in the floor. This time I will use strips. And I will take my time. First I have to stop at the hardware store to pick up something better to apply the resin. Something that wont melt or disintegrate.

Yee-haw!

I will snap some shots tomorrow of the carnage.
 

stevewolverton

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
262
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

You have a very interesting build going on there with that little boat. :) I'm picking up a 14' boat very similar to your boat tomorrow and I'm going to do a lot of the same things it looks like you're doing. (ripping up the casting deck, replacing the floor & stringers, and changing the layout)

I will be converting mine to a small center console, with t-top (20 pounds of crap in a 10 pound boat) and I'm very interested in watching your build for ideas - so come up with some good ones! ;)
 

jennis9

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
396
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

this looks great! I am jealous of that port locker.... keep up the good work!
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

Cadox M50A is a catalyst and should work fine. When you say mat, do you mean roving? The heaviest mat is 3oz's, woven and knitted products can be much heavier. The reason for this question is you need to use mat as the first layer on any work you do, without it the bond will be poor.
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

DOH!!

I am quite sure that it is roving and not mat. It is thick and heavy stuff. Should I rip it all out? Or can I buy some epoxy and go over top of this screwup?

(I have a feeling that you are going to say to get out the grinder!)

Thanks for all the help!!

Good thing I went slow. At this point it is just the stringer and the floor.
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

Found a supplier of poly resin; apparently it contains wax? Is this suitable? I will get the mat and roven from them as well. The rove is 18oz. make sense?

TIA!
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

You don't want wax if possible, resin with wax requires grinding and cleaning before you apply the next layer. Mat is very important with polyester resin, it will make the bond far better. Grab a corner of the layup with a good set of pliers and see if you can pull it off, many times you can if roving or cloth is used alone. 18oz roving will work, just use mat under it.
 

cprince

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
148
Re: 14 Foot Fiberglass Bass-Walleye-Pike Boat Project

You don't want wax if possible, resin with wax requires grinding and cleaning before you apply the next layer. Mat is very important with polyester resin, it will make the bond far better. Grab a corner of the layup with a good set of pliers and see if you can pull it off, many times you can if roving or cloth is used alone. 18oz roving will work, just use mat under it.


Well... I bought some more Poly. This has no wax. I ground out the bubbles from my last fiasco. I tried to pull out the old stuff that I had put in with vise grips, but it was going to take up a layer of the wood with it. So instead I sanded and put mat over it instead.

I must say; mat sucks up more resin than the roving. BIG time!

I have the stringer and deck in quite good. There are some bubble issues on one part of the deck... not sure what to do about that. Should I grind and glass over it?

The casting deck is in and it is ready to glass. I have dry fitted the side locker's extension and I am ready to make some locker lids. I am looking forward to painting the inside. I will have some pictures soon... I have a digital camera, but no batteries and little desire to go to the store just for that! But I know I will want to take some pictures. I am on the home stretch now...

One word of warning; While Polyester might only cost $59/gal... the "Air Roller" cost me $29.95!!! I never noticed until I got home that it cost me that much! Had I known, I would have put the kibosh on that!
 
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