1940/41 Eaton Viking Condenser

[djeady]

I have a 1940 or 1941 Eaton Viking 463 1.8 hp which is a rebranded Evinrude/Elto and was also sold as a Sea King model.

I've had it running in the past, but haven't been able to get it going for a while. When I started checking it the other day I found it had no spark.

I'e checked and cleaned the points and they are fine. I've also tested the coil and it seems ok. I've tried to test the condenser with a volt meter and at the top range (2000K) it goes to infinite almost immediately and the condenser picks up a charge of 6-7 volts which seems weak. I'd like to try replacing the condenser, but there is nothing stamped or printed on it - can anyone help with what the rating of this condenser should be?

Thanks.

 

[gm280]

I have a 1940 or 1941 Eaton Viking 463 1.8 hp which is a rebranded Evinrude/Elto and was also sold as a Sea King model.

I've had it running in the past, but haven't been able to get it going for a while. When I started checking it the other day I found it had no spark.

I'e checked and cleaned the points and they are fine. I've also tested the coil and it seems ok. I've tried to test the condenser with a volt meter and at the top range (2000K) it goes to infinite almost immediately and the condenser picks up a charge of 6-7 volts which seems weak. I'd like to try replacing the condenser, but there is nothing stamped or printed on it - can anyone help with what the rating of this condenser should be?

Thanks.

For starters, the condenser only charges up to the supply voltage of your meter. However, the fact that yours does charge at all mean your condenser is not your problem. You can actually run the engine without it connected up and it will work. The condenser is only there to keep the points from arcing and burning. So I don't know what the value is, but I just don't think that is your problem. And a condenser is actually really a capacitor. JMHO

 

[djeady]

Thanks for the response. I tried bypassing the condenser and still no spark. Points are clean, properly gapped and closing properly. When I test the coil using a multimeter at the top range it has zero resistance across the primary winding and about 5 ohms across the secondary, so it would seem to be good. I'm at a loss what to do next. I've also tried a brand new plug just in case the old one was shorted. Any suggestions?

 

[Tim Frank]

Not sure what you mean by "top range" on the multimeter, but you need to get an actual reading of ohms to compare to spec range.
Ideally, choose the "range" setting that should yield about 1/2 full range deflection for the target reading.

A true resistance of zero is NFG for the primary.

 

[gm280]

To test a spark coil, you don't use the top range on the meter. You will always get a "0" reading because at the top range the meter rounds thing pretty much and drops off the lower digits where the reading should be. Switch the meter to the lowest range and reread the primary and if you still get a "0" reading, your spark coil it toast. I have no idea what your owner's or shop manual specifies about the coil resistance, but on mine, the primary is .8 to 1.2 ohms The secondary is 60 to 70 ohms resistance. So you can see the primary has to be read on the lowest range to get any real reading. JMHO Post your results, but it is looking like you have a spark coil issue thus far. :noidea:

 

[djeady]

Thanks for all the feedback. I now have a spark. Turned out the problem was the points. The contacts themselves were clean, but the connection between the coil and the points depends on a copper mounting plate and it was very dirty. Cleaned that up and bingo.

Still won't start though. Disassembled and checked carb. Everything clear and open. Float valve rises because I can see the pin sticking out. Set the jet at 1.5 turns and have increased it to 2 turns out. Primed until gas ran out. Set throttle at just past half.
After trying to start a few times, pull the plug and not a whiff of gas.

Double checked and spark is still good. Put a shot of carb cleaner in the cylinder and it fired nicely. Back to the carb I guess.

Any suggestions?

Update - pulled the carb again and found that the housing around the compression nut for the jet was cracked. Looks like it has been repaired before with a filler type epoxy. They did a good job as I had never noticed the repair. May have been sucking air through the crack. Redid with JB Weld. Will wait until tomorrow and try again and start looking for a replacement carb.

Tuesday Update - Got it all back together and played with it for a while - I seem to be getting gas to the cylinder now, but it still won't run. Giving up for a while - too many other things to work on.