1956 30 hp evinrude

59lido

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2007
Messages
45
Ok guys, still having problems getting this motor running right. Recap what I've done so far. The motor was running on one cylinder and I replaced the coils,points,condensers,plugs,and wires. I ran the motor in a drum for about 20 mins ran good. I took it to the lake and rode it around for a few minutes probably about half throttle and did not pick as well as I thought it would push the small boat I have but anyway. I tried wot and the motor started building rpms and shut off. It would not start back up. Did not even sound like it was firing. Of course I was stuck out in the lake at this point. I finally got out of the lake got the boat back home and took the flywheel off and found the key sheared. I've had problems finding a key so I made one using what was left of the old one. I put the motor in a drum and started it. It ran for a minute or so and shut off, tried restarting and the motor was not firing. I took it back in the shop and took the flywheel off and it had sheared the key again. What am I doing wrong? The flywheel seems to go down on the shaft as it should. I did not have this problem til I took the flywheel off and replaced the ignition system.I have attached some pics. Dose the I made look like it is right and dose anyone know where i might find a new one. I've checked every marina and parts store in town and even looked while I was on vacation in North Carolina last week. I have also attached a photo of the fuel pump setup someone was wanting from a previous post. I would be greatful for any help. It would not let me load the photos, so I'll do that when I get to work in the morning.
 

quackaddict1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 30, 2008
Messages
138
Re: 1956 30 hp evinrude

Flywheels have a specific torque that the nut should be applied with. I do not know what it is for your specific motor. Also, you need to find a new shear key. Fixing an old one gets you what you have seen, another broke key. Try looking at an auto parts store, they may have what you need.
 

tmcalavy

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 29, 2001
Messages
4,005
Re: 1956 30 hp evinrude

You can probably get a new NOS woodruff key from Laings Outboards, Twin City Outboards or Engine, Blade & Prop...they're all on the web. Sounds like not enough torque on the flywheel nut when it's re-installed. I think long key models required 105 ft/lbs. and short key ones required 65 ft./lbs. You really need to make sure the torque spec for the flywheel is right or it could get real dangerous out on the water...something that heavy/big moving at 4000+ rpms comes off the shaft and goes flying around. Also make sure the shaft is dry, not lubed or oily, when the flywheel is re-keyed to the shaft and the nut is tightened...it's supposed to be a dry fit. Might also check the flywheel for cracks or other odd wear where it fits to the shaft. After you get it running again and solve the key problem, tune the high- and low-speed jets/needles as best you can in the barrel/tub and tweak them as necessary on the boat. My 57 Evinrude Big Twin 35 hp runs best in the barrel with a richer setting on the high-speed jet, but out on the boat it'll really hit its sweet spot with a leaner setting. I find the spot where it really hums/revs and then richen it just a tad.
 

Brymill

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 23, 2008
Messages
30
Re: 1956 30 hp evinrude

Thanks for the info guys. The shaft and flywheel had some grease on them and the torque I'll have to check. I've attached some pics of the keys and flywheel. If anyone sees anything I'm missing there let me know. Again thanks for your help.
 

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Brymill

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 23, 2008
Messages
30
Re: 1956 30 hp evinrude

Here is one of the fuel pump setup that some one wanted to see.
 

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F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: 1956 30 hp evinrude

You have answered your own question. The tapers MUST be clean and dry. The correct torque is 60-65 ft/lbs. Ignore this and you will shear the key and if you keep doing it you will damage the key slots in the crankshaft and flywheel....if you haven't already. Once they are damaged, it's all over. Same thing goes for the tapered surfaces.

The key is part number 302602 and any Evinrude or Johnson dealer can get you one, or the other people already mentioned. No substitutions allowed.
 

BAO

Cadet
Joined
Aug 2, 2008
Messages
19
Re: 1956 30 hp evinrude

Hey guys I had this exact problem after changin my coils on 56 25 hp rude it would backfire and shear the woodruff key every time. The woodruff key is hard to find so if you find them buy a few. I also made a couple and same thing they sheared. I ended up putting locktite on the threads (lots) and tightening flywheel. I then took a pipe that would fit over nut and gave it a few raps with a hammer and tightened again repeat this a few time but careful not to strip threads on nut or shaft. This was a last resort for me because i was down to my last woodruff key and they supposedly took my dealer 6 months to get. Hope this helps USE THIS AS A LAST RESORT ONLY
 

CATransplant

Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
6,319
Re: 1956 30 hp evinrude

As has already been said, the only way, and I mean the only way, to keep from shearing woodruff keys is to have the two tapers clean and undamaged, use a new key and TORQUE THE FLYWHEEL NUT TO THE CORRECT SPECS.

Loctite won't do it. Banging on a piece of pipe won't do it. You have to use a proper torque wrench. It's so simple.

If the tapers aren't clean and dry, the torquing won't do the job, either. If they're damaged in any way, the same thing. Every time the flywheel shears the key and spins, more damage is done to the tapers. It's a quick way to ruin a perfectly good outboard.
 

wbeaton

Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
2,332
Re: 1956 30 hp evinrude

There is no need to ever use locktite on the flywheel. Clean parts and proper torque only. Your keyway, crankshaft and/or flywheel must be irreparably damaged or you didn't torque the flywheel nut to spec.
 
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