1956 - timing marks and throttle position

pro-crastinator

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IMG-20131219-00271.jpgIMG-20131219-00269.jpgIMG-20131219-00266.jpgIMG-20131219-00267.jpgIMG-20131219-00268.jpg

Hi again guys. Was doing some poking around and.....
I was expecting the timing marks to be more obvious. ( I also went on a snipe hunt as a kid)
Pic one ; FOund the two hatch marks that were shown in many pics and video - but my flywheel mark is just a small dimple on the aluminum. Oh well. I can handle that.

Second pic demonstrated the "view hole" position with the timing marks in first pic.

Third pic is throttle position lever AT REST. This is where it just seems to end up.
Forth Pic is position that I force it to to initiate the engine to run (Poorly- pre tune up)
Fifth pic is the throttle position pushed to slow where it remains without difficulty.

QUESTION: which throttle position should be "used" when timing is being set?
I am Unable to find another dimple on the opposite side of the flywheel to set the other points.

I suppose I'm still looking for my ah ha! moment on this.http://forums.iboats.com/images/smilies/confused.gif
I haven't got my head completely around this thing yet.
Thanks much

1956 Evinrude Big Twin electric 30. Oldie but a goodie.
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

As long as the flywheel key is not sheared, the engine is in time.

To set the points precisely, either a special tool would be needed to align the point breakage point when the tool is aligned with dual markings on the side of the armature plate, However..... setting the points as follows will have the points set as close to perfect as possible. As the ole "carney" said.... Trust Me!


(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP embossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

Ok remember when the motor is on a boat, the throttle cable will be hooked up and it will hold the throttle position lever where it needs to be determined by the control box position. Hard to hold to start and such when barrel testing, I know what you mean.

Throttle position is irrelevant when setting points timing. Some say to put it at WOT, but the jury is out on that one.

If you set them with the flywheel on, having the inspection hole directly overtop of them will make it in position. OMC did that on purpose. Otherwise, if you don't have a timing fixture, and the flywheel is off, line up the rubbing block with the flywheel key as Joe stated.

The 2 hash marks are for setting the points timing with a timing fixture. If you are just using feeler gauges, don't worry about them. Set the points to open at the first hash mark if using new points, inbetween the 2 marks if using old points.
 

pro-crastinator

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

IMG-20131212-00247.jpg
I have the lobe marked top as hown in the pic.

My plan is to use the multimeter - ohm meter method to set the points
 

pro-crastinator

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

"Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not."

.. This instruction is presumed to be with flywheel REMOVED correct?
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

"Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not."

.. This instruction is presumed to be with flywheel REMOVED correct?

Correct. If flywheel is still installed, simply place the hole directly over the points as I mentioned.
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

The TOP means nothing as far as points timing is concerned. If using feeler gauges, align the rubbing block of the points with flywheel key, NOT the word TOP
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

If this is a hobby you feel you may continue to tinker in, I would suggest buying a timing fixture. F_R on this forum sells them. They are made incredibly well! I felt bad taking the little he asked for it from him!Timing Fixtures
 

pro-crastinator

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

I have dispatched an e mail to Frank and am waiting for a reply.

I am unable to express the appropriate level of appreciation for you guys sharing your expertise.
Thank you.
 

nwcove

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

i second the timing fixture from Frank. makes setting the timing easy and precise!, and you get to admire a wonderfully hand crafted tool while yer doing the job!!
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

I have dispatched an e mail to Frank and am waiting for a reply.

I am unable to express the appropriate level of appreciation for you guys sharing your expertise.
Thank you.

Wait till you get your bill, lol! ;)
 

pro-crastinator

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

Is this what needs to happen?
Key ligned up with point set felt.
IMG-20131220-00272.jpg

Here's my point gap.
IMG-20131220-00273.jpg
 

OptsyEagle

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

Yes. With the rub bar right where you have it, make sure a 0.020" feeler guage can go through it and a 0.022" cannot.

Once that is set, take a white business card and dip it in lacquer thinner and pull it through each point and then blow it with compressed air, if you have it. You want those points pristine clean since any oils, etc. (my feeler gauges themselves are usually pretty oily) will many times create an open circuit ... which, as you know, then creates a dead cylinder. You don't want that.
 
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HighTrim

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

^^^What he said.

You may also want to dress the points a bit while you have the flywheel off.

Fold a piece of wet/dry around an old hacksaw blade, and run that through a dozen times. If you have an actual points file, use that of course.

Now blow off with compressed air. Set to 020 as described above, then clean with thinner or Acetone. I like business card stock, buy any paper that wont leave fibres will work.
 

pro-crastinator

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

Not working out.
I have an ohm meter attached to points, coil and condensor disconnected.
Timing marks are no where near they should be.
I can manipulate the "advance/retard" mechanism and get it "closer" but the closest I can get the flywheel mark to the double hash marks is 2 1/2 inches. Motor WAY early. I see the ohm meter showing open and close. but access hole to points is looking down onto a coil.
If I knew what to take a pic of to help this along - I would.

My plan was to line up the points felt with the key in the shaft, gap the points - this would (should) get me close.
The ohm meter was to be the exacting finishing stroke to the job - but it aint working out that way.

If anybody has any ideas, I'm all ears.

Thanks
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

Forget the ohm meter unless you have the special tool mentioned that you can purchazse from F_R... otherwise, set the points the way I stated.
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

Ok, I THINK you are trying to use different techniques at the same time?? The points wont break when the access hole in the flywheel is above the points, they will be at 020 gap by then, and break much earlier. That is what I am understanding is going on here from your post?

There are many ways to skin the cat so to speak (sorry PETA).

Using the access hole in the flywheel, with flywheel installed, gap to 020 when the hole is directly above points. No meter, marks, anything else used here.

To set them with feeler gauge with flywheel off, line up the key and the rubbing block as discussed and set to 020. No meter, marks, anything else used here.

If you want to use a meter, you either need a timing fixture, or run the wires through the mag plate and out and know what marks you are aligning. Maybe if you elaborate on what you are trying to align here?
 

nwcove

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

is the armature plate flopping around??
 

pro-crastinator

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

"If you want to use a meter, you either need a timing fixture, or run the wires through the mag plate and out and know what marks you are aligning. Maybe if you elaborate on what you are trying to align here?"

I ran the wire thru the mag plate. wire connected to points and one lead on ohm meter. Other lead grounded, turn flywheel slowly and then come in and type in the forum.

Yes, (HI TRim correct) My thought was to use the feeler gauge method described by Joe to get me close.
Then, "dial it in" with the ohm meter.
 

nwcove

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

ahh, i misread what was going on! as mentioned, adjust the points untill they "break" when the marks line up. its a PITA ( not to confused with PETA) to do without a fixture, but not a big deal if you are patient.
 
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