1957 Evinrude Lark 35 Trouble Starting

[Mall Terrain]

Hey Everyone,

I'm new here and was just gifted a 66 starcraft arrow with a 57 evinrude 35 on the back of it. After tinkering with the motor a little bit, replacing some bad rubber fuel lines (dual line tank) and the very corroded battery cables for the electric starter as well as swap out the old solenoid for a slightly newer but still used solenoid and replace the spark plugs, I was able to get it running with just a spray of starter fluid. Over the course of a few days I had turned her on and off quite a few times, trying to tune the carb and generally just warm her up. After I throttled her down and she cut out for the last time, she wouldn't turn over again. It wouldn't even crank. All I got was the familiar click from the starter solenoid.

To make matters even more annoying, the pull start on this motor puts up quite a fight. With my bad back, I have managed to turn it over and keep it running twice out of at least 50 attempts. After more attempts at pull starting and even more aggravated attempts at trying to get it going with the electric starter again, I noticed that the mercury switch that is attached to the throttle was smoking. It was very corroded and practically fell apart in my hand. I have since ordered another one to put on but I'm not so sure this is the cause of it not starting.

Does anyone have any input on either the electric or pull start side of things? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[F_R]

Question for you--does it still have the plug-in cable on the side of the motor? If it does, the wing nut holding it on is the battery ground connection.

The usual cause of a smoking/fried mercury switch is somebody trying to use a car solenoid. If that describes you, it will also destroy the new mercury switch.

 

[Mall Terrain]

I have taken the cable off but I put the nut back on. Should I bother putting the bad switch back on in the meantime?

The solenoid that I put on is one that I took out of another electrical starter box just like the one on the boat, that was provided with the boat. Although knowing my uncle, I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't the correct type of solenoid. I have bought a new one online that's definitely correct.

After taking the switch off, I still can't get the motor started. With both the electric starter or the pull start. Is this switch stopping the motor from starting?

 

[F_R]

The motor should pull-start with no electrical connections at all. All the boat crooks knew that back in "The Day". Just unplug the cable, give the rope a pull, and drive it down the river in dead of night.

 

[Mall Terrain]

So that's the 2nd thing that I'm having trouble with. Any thought as to why it is so tough to get this motor pull started?

 

[F_R]

Is the compression relief functioning? It is there to make it easier for guys like you and me to pull. However, it will start easier without the compression relief, if you are able to pull it. If you pulled it 50 times, you must be able !!

OK, having said that, ALL 1957 Evinrudes have bad coils unless they have already been replaced. Have you checked? You are wasting your time, till you do.

 

[Mall Terrain]

So I was eventually able to get it started with the pull start after quite a bit of work and can get it started with the pull start whenever I need to now. But my project right now is getting the electric start to work. I have a fully charged battery and have just replaced the starter solenoid. The solenoid has a strong click when I try to start it but I get nothing out of the starter. So I think that's next up on the replacement list. Any input on where I can find a starter that will best fit this motor?

I have no idea if the coils have ever been replaced but they're on my list anyway for the winter tear down. For now, I'd just like to put around the lake with a motor that has a key start instead of yanking at the pull start every time

 

[Jdunham]

BOTH of my 1956 johnson 30s had starter issues. They had dead spots on the commutator.

First, did you check with a meter to see if you have 12V between the post on the starter and the starter casing when holding the start button? If not that is a problem and I would work your way back towards the solenoid box until you verify that the solenoid is passing 12V and clean all the connections. Are the pins/sockets on the connector shiny? Is the big positive pin collapsed or is there still spring action?
If 12V is present, check for dead spots:
It is easy to test for this. Disconnect the battery (for safety) pop the hood off and manually turn the starter motor a bit, maybe a quarter turn. Reconnect the battery and give it another try. If it spins right up I would assume its the starter.
If you are feeling up to it, pull the starter apart and clean/polish it, clean out the commutator grooves (use a tiny hoe shaped thing, maybe a paper clip). I had broken wires so took it to a shop.
If you dont want to risk it, take it to your nearest electric motor shop with a 6pack and/or a box of cookies.
I would get a quote on having the dead starter rebuilt before buying a used or aftermarket one. A used one might be almost used up and the aftermarket quality is often suspect.