1960’s mercruiser 120 help needed

[matt167]

Since a Nineteen is worth it consider a donor boat with a later drive. It will drop right in place with minor adjustments to the transom keyway.

A water tube is likely available or easy to fashion out of a later one at least, but if you go to a 1972 or newer drive, your replacement parts double

 

[achris]

The copper tube (#32-32587), from water pump to water pocket cover, is no longer available, and it doesn't supersede to a new number. I have seen a few on ebay, but that's not the only part that's going to be NLA....

Chris....

 

[Scott Danforth]

you can make a copper tube.

however like I said, find a 1992 or newer 3.0 with an alpha 1, gen 2. should be thousands of them for only a few hundred dollars. usually in an add that says "Free trailer, must take rotten bayliner with it."

 

[vscrl1]

I dont have the money or equipment to change out the entire driveline. If i cant get it running as is then ill dump it and even if i do get it running ill probably still dump it. Its an incomplete nineteen. The hardtop is not there. Also have to rebuild the seats. Most of the wood in them is gone. Not too hard a job. Did it before on a 70s sylvan. So the tube on this one is copper vs the plastic that all the newer ones are? Guess ill take it to a marina if i get it running and see if they can make one

 

[vscrl1]

Contacted my marina that i took my old boats to and they gave me updated parts for the outdrive. Mercruiser does make a newer plastic tube that will work on mine as well as the other parts i was looking for. The only thing they havent found yet is a fuel pump for the engine. So might be able to get her all back together at least.

 

[vscrl1]

Update:
replaced the fuel pump with a temporary automotive one for a 67 Chevy II. Replaced plugs, adjusted the distributor position after it having a hard time starting and she finally started. Going to the marina tomorrow to get the parts for the lower unit. Also plan on doing an oil change tomorrow and if all goes well and I don’t see anymore water in the oil then I’ll order the right fuel pump and exhaust gaskets and water test it at some point in the next week. And no I didn’t run her for more than 10 seconds since still has water oil in it and not hooked up to water. Left the valve cover off though and she was slinging that crap everywhere. Also found a hardtop and seats and other stuff. If all goes well with this thing I might keep her after all lol

 

[Scott Danforth]

Update:
replaced the fuel pump with a temporary automotive one for a 67 Chevy II. Replaced plugs, adjusted the distributor position after it having a hard time starting and she finally started. Going to the marina tomorrow to get the parts for the lower unit. Also plan on doing an oil change tomorrow and if all goes well and I don’t see anymore water in the oil then I’ll order the right fuel pump and exhaust gaskets and water test it at some point in the next week. And no I didn’t run her for more than 10 seconds since still has water oil in it and not hooked up to water. Left the valve cover off though and she was slinging that crap everywhere. Also found a hardtop and seats and other stuff. If all goes well with this thing I might keep her after all lol

stop.....stop....stop. never use an automotive pump on a marine motor. you will blow up.

BTW, you can get a 3.0 and alpha for less money than you are sinking into this 53 year old motor. simply go on craigslist, look for the trailer for free or $500 that you must take the rotten bayliner with it.

 

[vscrl1]

Scott Danforth, you mustve missed where i said the fuel pump was temporary just to make sure it runs before ordering the real deal. Now that i know it runs, ive ordered the real deal. And so far ive spent maybe $100? And most of it is all maintenance. Fuel pump was probably the original and it failed, plugs, oil and filter, impeller for lower unit, and gaskets go bad over time too. Gaskets were a few dollars each, plugs were $10, impeller tube $7, gear lube seal screw kit $7, new coil $28, fuel pump is $115 for the marine one. So all of that is under $200. How is that more than id spend on another motor and again if you read my other response i dont have the equipment for a motor swap nor can i afford to pay a marina to do one. Im making do with what i have. My brother has the same motor only a few years newer and his runs just fine too. Not everyone is made of money, especially during all this covid crap

 

[Scott Danforth]

you could have used a squirt bottle to fill the carb bowl for free vs spending money on an automotive pump to see if the motor ran. or take a tank and fuel line with a squeeze bulb from an outboard, place the tank on the gunwale and squeeze the bulb a few times.

just giving you options.

$20-$30 to rent a hoist from your local rental house and about 4 hours to swap motor and drive, and that would include modifying the key hole for the newer drive.

none of us are made of money.

the last 3.0 swap i helped with cost a total of $0 out of pocket..... the donor boat and motor were free (local facebook market place), hull disposal was about $100, sold trailer for $300 the same day we picked up the free boat, took the $200 to buy oil, filter, new shift cable and throttle cable, new exhaust hose and new fuel hose, band-aids because I cut myself on the fiberglass cutting it up and a case of beer. could have made money by parting out things like the windows, etc., however I havent been able to sell them for about 5 years.....

sold the blown up 2.5 liter for parts for $100 about a year later.