Re: 1961 Evinrude 18 won't idle
Been gone for a few days (Muskie tournament up north) and haven't been able to mess with the motor 'til today. Swapped the fuel pump with a known good one, that didn't fix it. I noticed that the problem got worse as the motor warmed up; i.e. she'd run down below the timing mark when cold, but after she warmed up a bit, the minimum point at which she'd keep an idle was at or above the timing mark. When cold, she didn't seem to bog down, either. Ran the motor in a 30 gal garbage can, so I didn't get it above fast idle. Checked the plugs, the top one was darker and oilier than the bottom, bottom was fairly white with a little oil on it. They're fairly new plugs, don't know how long they have to run to get a 'tan' appearance on the insulator. I guess I should mention that one of the coils went bad a few weeks ago, replaced it with a new OMC part, and the spark on the new coil wasn't as good as on the old. Had problems on the water with one cylinder intermittently cutting out, so I replaced the new OMC coil with one from another motor I have. When turning the flywheel by hand (using a wrench on the flywheel nut), the spark on the replaced coil still didn't seem as strong as the one originally on the motor, but now it runs OK at wide open. Don't know if turning the flywheel in this manner is a good spark test (hard to get the same speed for both sides), but the 'weak spark' cylinder is the one that has the blacker plug. I don't think it's a bad condenser, I've swapped them and the problem doesn't follow. I also noticed that the original coil (not the original part on the motor, it's a replacement) has a higher resistance on the secondary coil than the new ones I put in. Both replacements were around 4.5k, the original is about 6k ohms. Could this problem be caused by weak spark on one cylinder, or is the difference in plugs due to a secondary compression (crankcase seal) problem?<br /><br />Thanks a lot for the help, you guys are awesome!<br /><br />George