1963 evinrude 40 hp wont start

[Eoughphily]

I am hoping somebody here can point me in the right direction. I have spent the last two days working on this motor trying to get it running. A little history before I talk about what I have done. Motor has been running good, but lately has been getting more and more difficult to start. Once it finally starts, it runs good. I decided to address this three days ago. It all started with new spark plugs. (I replaced coils and spark wired 6 months ago when I bought the motor). I got j6c plugs, and was still difficult to start, bug holly smokes I swear it doubled the power and I believe it was actuslly running like a 40 hp should, speed wise. However I noticed the idle was a little rough. I pulled up to the dock for a few and after that have not been able to get it started. So far, I have replaced the condesors and points (made sure points were clean after install). Timed it using a voltmeter (instead of .020 gap, got this method off of youtube) by lining up the timing marks and setting points to just barely not touching. I verified I'm getting spark by pulling plugs and grounding them on the motor, turned it over and watched the blue spark. Done on both plugs. I checked compression, 82 lower 80 upper with both plugs removed at the same time, same as it was when I got it (started easier then) I pulled the carb, wasn't much to clean if any at all. It was spotless inside. I performed a cleaning anyways focusing on the low speed jet, but checking all other passages as well. Cleaned the fuel filter, same as carb, very clean. Gas is new, came out clean from filter and from carb. Got my low speed jet set at 1 1/2 turns out. I prime the bulb, fills up the carb bowl, doesn't leak out like it would if float wasn't set right. But the motor just will not start. Gas is making its way out the exhaust which tells me it's getting gas (mixed 25:1, roller bearings pre 1965) after trying and trying to start with no luck, barrel full of gas/oil in the water, half a squeeze on the primer bulb and its hard. Tells me fuel pump is working, got fair compression, got spark, timing should be good as far as I can tell. I am all out of ideas here. Thought maybe the kill switch, but I have spark. Unplugged it to test anyways but no change. Please if anybody has any other ideas. Also as for spark, I have an inline light spark tester but not an air gap tester. Currently broke and can't afford one till next Friday.

 

[F_R]

Assuming it truly does have good spark, sounds to me like it's flooded (too much gas). Does it have a (good) gasket on the main nozzle in the carburetor? Try turning the slow speed needle in some. Or even try draining the carb and see if it will clear out and at least fire a couple of times before starving. Again "assuming", I assume you didn't forget to put the high speed jet back in the carb bowl, right? Or clean it out with a drill or other hard objects.

 

[S.A. Baker]

You CAN static time it with a voltmeter...but you still need a .020 point gap or it will run mostly like crap and be hard to start! Your issue sounds like way too little point gap.

 

[Eoughphily]

This model carb has a fixed high speed jet. I made sure it was clear, but no I did not clean it out with a drill bit. I did not have a carb kit so a performed a cleaning instead. All the gaskets seemed to be in reusable shape as I was also gentle removing them (I did not remove the jet packing). If it was flooded is there a method for removing the gas? Or is that the best way to do it like you mentioned, drain the carb bowl and keep trying to start it.

 

[F_R]

The goal is to get that excess gas out of the crankcase and cylinders. It will clear itself out if you crank it enough without dumping more gas in as you do. Thus the suggestion to turn the slow speed needle needle in some, and possibly drain the carb. And don't choke it any more. Which brings up another thing---put that stupid automatic choke in manual choke-off position. I am aware that it has a fixed high speed jet. Thus the suggestion about the gasket on the main nozzle. If that gasket leaks, fuel by-passes the fixed jet. BTW, you didn't say but this is electric start, right? I don't think the manual start model has the dreaded automatic choke.

 

[David Young]

You CAN static time it with a voltmeter...but you still need a .020 point gap or it will run mostly like crap and be hard to start! Your issue sounds like way too little point gap.

I agree with S.A. Baker

 

[Eoughphily]

It has electric start and electric shift. So you are right, it does have the automatic choke setting which is how I try to start the majority of the time. I'm gonna pull the plugs, disconnect the fuel, put it on choke off, and see if its just flooded. I do have a question. If it was flooded, would it still not start if it sat over night? I always thought with flooded engines if they sit long enough they clear themselves out.

S.A. baker, I will regap the points as well at .020 instead of the static time.

Thank you guys for the responses, I will let you know if this gets her running. I am still new to outboards, I took on the hobby 9 months ago and have learned a lot from this forum.

 

[Eoughphily]

Woohoo!!!! I got her running. I gapped the points and she fires right up. Using the timing marks was not working for me. I would line them up and the point would be sitting right before the highest point on the cam. When gapped at .020 they wouldn't touch at the lowest point...no bueno. So I went with visually putting them at the highest point on cam, then gapped at .020 and she starts, and much easier at that thank you again for all your advise.

 

[S.A. Baker]

And THAT's how you set point gap! Glad you got her running . With the proper gap the timing itself is done by adjusting the timing plate. But if I were you I'd get a manual before messing with it further. With the proper gap it has to be close.

 

[oldboat1]

ummm, how's that S.A.? The plate attaches in only one position, doesn't it? Or do you mean the carb adj (link and sync)?

 

[HighTrim]

And THAT's how you set point gap! Glad you got her running . With the proper gap the timing itself is done by adjusting the timing plate. But if I were you I'd get a manual before messing with it further. With the proper gap it has to be close.

Timing is fixed, not adjustable in any way sorry. Setting the points with a timing fixture and buzz box/meter is the ideal/best method, NOT with a feeler gauge. Sorry, have to disagree with you there again.

The feeler gauge will get you close, but not exact. Feeler gauge will not get the cylinders to fire exactly 180 degrees apart either. I haven't used a feeler gauge in many years.

 

[S.A. Baker]

Yes...link and synch

 

[racerone]

Setting the points with a meter and using the 2 marks at 180 degrees on the flywheel and the 2 vertical marks on the magplate is best.----That is the best way to get the hottest spark !!!!!