1964 35 Evinrude LARK

[55'Fleetwin7.5]

Hello,

I am going to look at a motor that has not run in MANY years. Maybe since the 70's. The Owner has kept it in his basement / Garage and routinely pulled the rope to make sure it did not sieze up. I obviously would be hesitant to try and start it... but, what do you recommend? Also, I am trying to sell a 1964 "Big Twin" 40. It ran ok but I am having some trouble smoothing it out. It has a manual choke behind a drop down door and a "rich / Lean" adjustment too. On the left there is another unit that says rich/lean and has wire coming from it. It seems to run when I close the manual choke to start then move that to half choke. As for the mixture... I am not sure where to leave it. Any thought from the sages of ages?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1964 35 Evinrude LARK

it sounds, like the present motor just needs a carb cleaning, and proper carb adjustments. as far as the 35hp if it has good compression, the lower unit is good, $200-250, to out back into reliable order. carb kit, coils, points, condensers, plug wires, water pump.

carb adjustments, use the second set of instructions here:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352

 

[55'Fleetwin7.5]

Re: 1964 35 Evinrude LARK

I pulled the plugs and they were BLACK! I put in a different pair I had and after a ful minutes...they were getting blak too... We were messing with the mixture knob on the front panel But it coughs at low idle... Could it be points? or ignition? or is it more likely carb... Thanks for all you do. I really appreciate your help. Tom

 

[56 rude]

Re: 1964 35 Evinrude LARK

I pulled the plugs and they were BLACK! I put in a different pair I had and after a ful minutes...they were getting blak too... We were messing with the mixture knob on the front panel But it coughs at low idle... Could it be points? or ignition? or is it more likely carb... Thanks for all you do. I really appreciate your help. Tom

I f and i mean if after adjusting the carb properly it still coughs id pop the flywheel and chech out the coils.I just finished a 33 rude with basically the same symptoms and after poping the flywheel the coils we totally pooched,i dont even know how it ran in the first place!Most likely if the coils have never been touched their shot.Look for cracks or splits and any chalking means their toast.Personally i preferr the Sierra coils to omc as replacements.

 

[55'Fleetwin7.5]

Re: 1964 35 Evinrude LARK

I f and i mean if after adjusting the carb properly it still coughs id pop the flywheel and chech out the coils.I just finished a 33 rude with basically the same symptoms and after poping the flywheel the coils we totally pooched,i dont even know how it ran in the first place!Most likely if the coils have never been touched their shot.Look for cracks or splits and any chalking means their toast.Personally i preferr the Sierra coils to omc as replacements.

Is there anything special about pulling the flywheel on these motors? Or is it the same as the smaller ones... Using a harmonic balance puller...?

Any tips?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1964 35 Evinrude LARK

use the harmonic balancer, #8 grade hardened bolts.

 

[larky]

Re: 1964 35 Evinrude LARK

grade 8 bolts and a harmonic balancer puller. If it wont budge, apply a little penetrating oil and let it sit over night with some pressure on it.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1964 35 Evinrude LARK

The most important thing with the flywheel is reinstallation. The flywheel and shaft tapers must be clean and dry and you MUST use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 100-105 ft/lbs. To do otherwise risks destroying your motor.

If you have to replace the coils, they must be installed with the laminated cores flush with the machined edges where they sit.

Oh, and I'll tell you before you ask....that thing is hard to get off. Tighten that puller down tight!! Then tighten it some more. It will come off if you pull hard enough. It never will come off if you are timid.