1964 75 hp junction box on a 1963 40hp

[Eoughphily]

I recently purchased a 1963 40 hp Evinrude electric shift which did not come with any controls (got a hell of a deal) I also found a good deal on a push button selectric shift which also came with the junction box and all the other electrical goodies. My understanding is the 40 hp uses a dc generator, and the junction box I got is setup for an alternator utilizing the rectifier for converting ac to dc. Now my question is, can I use this junction box with my 40 hp as is? If not, can I bypass the rectifier and use the regulator in it? I did notice the regulator is slightly different then the regulator normally used on this motor. It only has two pluggins, field and battery, where as the normal regulator has three plugins. But when I look at the schematics for the 40 hp regulator it appears to only utilize two of the three pluggins.

 

[F_R]

Two vastly different animals. You probably can sell the 75hp box for more than enough to buy one for your 40. You can find the base section for the 40 all over the place. The cover with the regulator in it is the tough part. BTW, the 40 regulator is a 3 section unit with three terminals, plus the base ground. And it is a 10 Amp unit, not a car regulator.

 

[Eoughphily]

Where to you get car regulator from. I understand what you say about 3 terminals on the 40 HP regulator, battery, field, armature, and then a ground. The schematic in my seloc manual shows the armature terminal is not used. The 75 HP regulator has two terminals, battery, and field, so why would it not work?

 

[boobie]

As F_R said, two different units entirely. Don't try to mix the parts because it just won't work. One is generator type charging and the other is alternator type.

 

[racerone]

You say that the armature terminal is not used ?----Any pictures of your shematic ?

 

[Eoughphily]

No Title

Yes, here are the schematics for both regulators. My thought is that the regulator regulates the volts for charging and the rectifier converts ac to DC, so just dies connect the rectifier...right?

 

[racerone]

???---In the first picture do you see the 14 gauge wire that has been left out of the picture ?--------------The 40 hp uses a DC generator so no diodes are required for that.---The 2 junction boxes are NOT COMPATIBLE in this case !----And further more my 66 / 67 factory manual shows a yellow 14 gauge wire for the armature.----Those wiring diagrams can also be found online !

 

[Eoughphily]

I see what you're talking about with the 14 gauge wire, the schematic in my book left it out, but still labeled it...lame. oh well. Supposedly the 40 HP box can be located all over the place but I can't seem to find one anywhere. Think I will just disconnect the regulator and rectifier, not use the generator and use the box for the harness and starter solenoid. Will have to charge the battery at night when I'm done using it.

 

[racerone]

The electric shift draws constant power when in gear.--You risk damage by not having a working generating system.--What is your location ?

 

[Eoughphily]

I live in Oregon. I do ALOT of driving all over the state so I'm not limited to just a couple cities. I am constantly checking Craig's list and eBay for parts.

 

[F_R]

Here is the wiring diagram for your motor

 

[F_R]

Sorry, previous post doesn't work

 

[Eoughphily]

I read on another thread that a small engine or pre 1963 Chevy voltage regulator can work for a lot less vs $200. Does anybody have any information on this?

 

[F_R]

Read post #2. It is a 10 Amp regulator. Let me know when you find any 10 Amp car regulator. Not limiting the generator output to 10 Amps will burn up the armature. "Look alike" and "it fits" just doesn't get it.

There is a Harley Davidson 10 Amp regulator and a solid state replacement which will work, though I've never tried it. I have the details somewhere. Note "somewhere".