1965 Seaking 8 Help

Drew350

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Jun 21, 2016
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2
1965 Seaking 8hp, VMB19039A.

Compression at 68-70 # on both cylinders, did not have spark on one plug but I cleaned both points and gapped (points) to .020 and now appears to have good spark on both cylinders.

Sprayed some fuel/oil mix into plug holes, re-installed plugs expecting to fire and nothing happened after pulling 10-15 times? Pulled plugs out, they were wet so I dried off with compressor air, rechecked spark and still looks to have good spark. Tried again and no start.

1. Is 68-70# compression enough for this motor to start?
2. Given the above steps, what should I look at next assuming that above compression reading is acceptable?
3. Should I try spraying the fuel oil mix into the carb throat instead of the cylinders?

Thanks in advance,

Drew
 

wickware

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Jun 20, 2009
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1,286
I did not find specific PSI Specs (or Table 4 in my 3.5 -140 HP, 1966-1988 Clymer). No more than 10-15 PSI between cylinders is important to get a good tune.

In the small Lawn Mower engine world we have used any compression below 100 psi as bad. This can be improved if it?s not damage as sticking rings from lack or use vs bad cyl walls or rings.

Add some oil to the cyls (2-3 tsps) to see if the compression will improve and the engine will start. If it starts, stuck rings can free-up from sitting.

Good Luck!
 

Nordin

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Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,639
68-70 PSI sounds a bit low. Should be about 80-90 PSI or up to 100PSI.
But most importent is that both are no more than 10-15% from each other.

Spraying mixture in to the plugholes should make it cough BUT as you say the plugs are wet, it maybe flooded.
Try spray mixture in to the carb or use starting fluid but be careful as starting fluid do not contain lube.

Did you check the flywheel key when you set the points? It must be intact as it locate the flywheel so *** will spark at right time.
Clean the carb and set the air/fuel mixscrew to 1 1/4 out from seated.

If no luck with these things, pull the head and check the cylinder walls and the pistons for damage as the compression sounds low.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
Messages
18,126
Get a different gauge and re-test.
​You should have a higher reading than that.
The good thing is both cyl are real close so it might just be the gauge????
​From the info I get from my older manuals.
The comp should be 115-130????

These older ones if the carb isn't set right they don't like to start.
Re-set the air screw to 1 and 1/2 turn out and try again.

Was working on the neighbor kids 2hp. Evenrude.
HE tried to adjust it himself " cause it quit running right"

Had water in the tank.
Anyway it took about 50+ pulls to get it to start after re-setting the carb.
 
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Drew350

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Jun 21, 2016
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2
I had a small amount oil in each cylinder from a day or so ago thinking along the same lines as wickware suggestion. Got home late last night and decided to try again, and after spraying some fuel/oil mix into the carb and playing with the throttle/choke position it started right up and ran good as long as I sprayed fuel into the carb throat. Only ran it for less than a minute because I didn't have it in the tank.

Couple more questions.

What is the proper mix ratio for this outboard, I have heard 24:1 and 50:1. Model VWB19039A
What is the correct spark plug? I could just buy what is in there now but want to be certain.
Someone put a barbed hose fitting on the engine where the fuel line connects, I would really like to have a quick disconnect option so I can run it dry when done using. Can I use any outboard motor connection? I already have 2 tanks and lines for my mariner 25HP, maybe I can get a male connection for this outboard and use those tanks. Any reasons theis would/would not work?

Thanks again.
 

wickware

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Jun 20, 2009
Messages
1,286
I was treating my fuel for a year with Stabil and stopped running it dry over 10 year. After seeing how long it was taking me to run it dry after every trip which was weekly during the summers only. When we had drought as 03-06 I ran it dry since I was not going per summer.

I would think you can adapt to your existing cans w/o a problem. Is the engine new to you? Or! You know the Lower Unit has been serviced with a new impeller and checked for fresh oil and no water in the last 2-3 years???

Proper Mix and Plug, I have no Idea. But! I have taken my old 8:1 -32:1 equipment to Premium Synthetic 50:1 mix. IMO 40:1 might be better since I use so little. I was tired 8:1, 16:1, 25:1, 32:1 and 50:1 mix on equipment since the 70s....

Good Luck!
 
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