1966 Chrysler 50hp won't steer, missing fuel pump.

[slowleak]

I recently bought a boat with a 1966 Chrysler 50hp motor, (Tear drop cover),
The boat is an older Holiday in need of a new floor and transom wood.
The problem is that the motor will not steer, it won't budge, no amount of penetrant or heat has helped so far.
Second, its got no fuel pump, the former owner was running a small electric fuel pump, and by the look of the pump, its been on there for decades. (Old Stewart Warner fuel pump with an attached regulator set to the minimum pressure).
Are later pumps the same? Can I take one from say an early 70's 50 or 55hp motor?

Any ideas on freeing up the steering?
(The boat is spring and rope cable steered, so we're not dealing with a stuck cable or anything).

 

[Nordin]

About the steering problem try to penetrate more with penetrating oil and warm/heat it up with a propane torch. Try to lobe with new grease through the grease fitting.
Do not heat to much, there are plastic bushings for the swivel bracket bearing.
It is a PIA to work with stiff steering but be patient.
Last thing to do is to pull the power head and the remove the king pin and clean up.
Fuel pump from early 70 es up til 73-74 I believe will fit for OEM mounting.
I suppose your OEM fuel pump is the old style with a glass bowl.
Later was built to be mount right to the intake cover and to a intake cover with a hole.
Earlier had hoses from crank case to the pump.

 

[slowleak]

I've been soaking it for a while, no change, it shows no movement. I see two bronze bushings but no plastic where the king pin goes into the bushing areas.
The fuel pump is electric, its mounted on the transom inside the boat, it says Stewart Warner on the top. The guy who I got it from, who was in his mid 80's, said his dad put it on there when he was in high school and that he got it from a local auto performance shop in town after having issues keeping the thing primed.

When I first got it, there was a complete spare carb wrapped up in plastic, inside a tin can from tobacco that was covered in tape and stuck to the underside of the splash well, and another can with spare spark plugs, spare points, coils, and a small puller all greased up, and sealed in the can, glued to the hull. He also had two spare, new props bolted with wingnuts under the bow plate.

The motor has strong compression and runs great, but I have to fix the steering before I can hang it on something to use.
I also want that fuel pump rig gone. I'm not fond of the 'always on' fuel pump idea. Its rigged with a toggle switch at the battery that directly powers the pump right above it. The fuel filter was inline and reads AC Delco in yellow on a dark blue metal can. By the looks of it, the filter is as old as the motor. The boat was set up with a homemade foot throttle and dash ignition switch. The shifter is side mounted and branded Unitrol with only the shifter connected.

I hung a newer motor on the boat for now with modern controls but would like to save this motor for another project. Its too clean and too unique looking to let go.
I can't remember when I last saw one of these early Chryslers on the water here.

 

[racerone]

Pumps off a Johnson / Evinrude could be fitted.

 

[slowleak]

I thought about just fitting one from a newer motor but I was more thinking of finding something period correct, I'm guessing that these early models likely only got a hood change in the later 60'S vs the rebadged West Bend hood mine has.
The later motors are fairly common around here and most are cheap to buy. I figure a parts motor may be in order if it'll give me all the parts I need.

 

[Nordin]

Check out Ebay.
There are 5-6 old style and 2-3 newer style fuel pumps out there.
Search Chrysler outboard fuel pump.

 

[slowleak]

Is the early style fuel pump the same as the old West Bend style pump?
My take on this from what I've been reading is that this is the first year, and a model that was simply a rebadged West Bend for 1966.

The motor runs on the electric pump they have attached to it but I feel its a bit dangerous to have a full time/all the time fuel pump on an outboard, or any boat motor for that matter. I also think that a huge pump from an early hotrod is way overkill for a twin cylinder motor.


I also still need to get the steering freed up, so far all the soaking in penetrating oil has done nothing.
If the steering pin won't work free or if it turns out to be more than the whole thing is worth, then its just a pile of parts destined for fleabay I suppose, but I strongly prefer to get the original motor working again vs hanging something newer on it.

 

[Nordin]

As I said before your engine had the old style fuel pump from factory.
The old style is mounted beside the block with a bracket.
It is a two stage pump and it is driven from the crank case pulses (vaccum/overpressure) by two hoses.
The newer style pump is bolted to the block at a intake port cover and also driven by the crank case pulses.
Both pumps use the same gasket and diaphragm and they are available.
If your engine is healthy (proper sealing in the crank case) I would suggest you to use an old style pump cause it is really easy to fit to your engine.
You can get a used one from Ebay or Franz Marine etc.
Do not use an electric fuel pump, it may over pressurised the system and you have to be sure it only runs when engine is running.

If you do not get the steering svivel to loose by greasing and heating it the only way is to pull the power head and disassemble the king pin and clean it.
It is more work to do but I think it is worth the effort.