1968 Chrysler 20 Hp help!

[Russ060]

Hello Everyone,,
I hope you are doing well during this pandemic

I'm getting into outboards and got my hands on an 1968 Chrysler 20 HP motor. the only problem it has is that the wiring is kind of hard to figure out (at least for a starter noob like myself, where I almost fried the starter plate, if it's not already fried :\.

I'm going to post what I did with pictures and I hope one of the old motors enthusiasts, will be able to help me get this motor started as it's my summer project.

I tried to follow the diagram below, however, that was a total failure and the stator plate started smoking, although I disconnected the battery right a way when I smelled the smok.

The key switch for the engine is a universal key switch as shown in one of the pictures, however, after following the diagram, the alternator seems to run on the battery instead of making electricity and sparking the plugs. in other words, when the switch is on the ON position, not ignition yet, the alternator will run and since the engine isn't firing some smoke will come out of the stator plate (coil and condenser)

I believe my mechanical voltage regulator is broken from the bottom side, (burnt), but still there's continuity, and from my understanding, it shouldn't prevent the engine from igniting as all it does is charge the battery after converting to DC.

I'd really appreciate any help or advice to point me the right direction

thanks for taking the time to read my post

regards

 

[jerryjerry05]

Too old for me.
Maybe Nordin or Wickware can help.
mastertechmarine might be able to help.?

 

[Nordin]

Russ 060 your engine has a combined starter/alternator. Here in Sweden we call it a dynastarter.
The armature is a DC starter and DC alternator and has nothing to do with the ignition.
The ignition is an old school magneto ignition with magnets in the flywheel, ignition coils and points.
The dynastarter is mounted on the top of the flywheel and act as a starter when starting and alternator (DC not AC) when engine is running and it charge the battery when running.
It has brushes as a regular starter and act as starter when the solenoid is activated and when engine is running it is an DC alternator.
I think your issue is the keyswitch cause you need a keyswitch with six terminals and with B, S, C, I and two M terminals.
The ignition system should be isolated from the starer/alternator system.
It is two different circuits.

 

[Nordin]

Have to correct myself, it is a AC alternator but only a single phase typ, cause it is only one winding in the dynastarter.
If you look in the diagram there is only a diod as rectifier.

 

[RCO]

The ignition system is stand alone. It is a magneto, and produces it's own electrical current. If you feed battery voltage to the ignition coils, they will cook. The two "m" terminals on the ignition switch go to each set of points. When the circuit is open it will run, and closed it shorts the two sets of points together to kill the motor.