1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

[satanclause]

1: were to connect kill switch wire ( could not get uploader to work on my Android, but tilt your head left and look at my avatar for Photo on cable and avalible places to connect it.)

2: i guess that the one. Marked "RED" is +12 Volts, Would it in sutch Case be ok to take some power from that to run a lantern? How many watts could one take out from it? (Law in Sweden now to have a aft lantern on small boats)

Plz Only answer if you know for sure as parts for this Engine is Hard to find up here

Thanks in advance / Thomas

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Bump

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Thomas, I am not sure what you want but this may help

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Thanks for reply but my Engine is one without battery and Electric startmotor. On my avatar Photos Place you can see the side of my box. Marked from top RED Blue White.

Meight be a Brown Cable on otherside that i connect kill wire 2!

Will go outside and look

/T

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

No,I can't see your avatar as my vision is failing

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

OK

At computor now

First of all me and my son went and bought this boat for 5500 swedish crowns = 835 usd
It is a 1968 Norwegan made Selco with a 1968 Mercury 500 on it!



The old man i bought it from knew nothing of engines and said

"It worked fine from i bought it until last summer when it would not run on idle, i used to run it on the lake maybe 6-10 times/year"

When i got it home i changed fuel line and fuel pump membrane. it still would not run on idle.
So i thought ok maybe some crap in the carburators and removed those!

Then i found this......



The cap on the idle fuel canal had fallen of and the old man had put a earplug into it :/
thus blocking it totaly!

Now to my questions

The old man had also removed the Brown kill cable and i want to know were it goes on the engines connectors,
The kill cable are at the top of photo and 3 options for me Red Blue or white,, or should it go elsewere?


(Photo is taken sideways, green Cable down for correct presentation.
The schematic you posted dont match my engine/box , from mine just 3 cables on top of it come out and go directly into the distributor.

Hope this make more sence to you all

Help....

/T

PS: i am Swedish so English is not my first language ,, never mind the spelling errors,, or i kill you,,,, i am a viking you know i will

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

I have no fear of that, my family are Hlaoir of Trondheim. I don't know about engine years in the old county but in here in the US your engine was built 1970 to 75 here's the right diagram, the brown wire is from a tilt switch that kills the engine if it is kicked up so it don't come down under full power, the switches are troublesome and many people just disconnect them.

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Haha my family name is ******d "The viking Gods go berserk" we are also called blackhead cus of our hair, Trondheim just a Stone trow away hahaha welcome to the family .

You now posted correct layout f?r my Engine
Top left is Brown Cable coming from kill switch ( Mercury switch) and it go toward the red and Blue according to my Photo and your diagram. But at the diagram i cant see if it go to red or blue connector????

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Hlaoir is = Hair in Viking language, Most was blond but some was not and stood out. At ?stersund our Main Keep stood at the top of a hill. About 200km from Trondheim many wars was fought back and forth. I grew up just a half mile from the old keep ruins

The story ends luckily Swedish hockey team now front 3 crowns = 3 crushed kingdoms and you apparently are alive

Btw we became worldchampions this year again!

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

It goes on the blue.
Our family ( Lade) left in the early 900s with Rollo, Hrolfuf or what ever you choose to call him for Normandy. Let me know if I can help

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Blue was my Guess aswell, but i rather ask cus i do not want to brake the box. Near to impossible to find up here, due to the old age!

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Btw i have Good news for you.
You are a Swedish viking..
Norway became a nation just before WW1...=1913
If your family left year 900 you and your family are safe and Swede's with 1000 years safety margin hihi. Thanks for help

Ps Trondheim is a old Swedish viking and later bastion

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Now question 2 can i from the red connector take out 12Volt, And if so. How many amp can i use, or watt's. Afraid to overload and burn the system?

(According to Swedish law, I must now have atleast 1 lantern)

/T

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

That ign is very prone to voltage changes so it would be better to go to the battery for any power leads.

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Forget that last answer, as I forgot your engine is manual start. You cannot use the engine as a source of power for the lights as it will effect the ign by causing low voltage that will burn ign parts up and the red terminal has between 180 and 400 volts depending on the RPM while the blue is between 25 and 100 volts the other terminal is for the trigger and only 4 volts. So you are going to have to use a battery or install a charging stator for your light.

Or maybe something like this if you have them over there.
http://www.iboats.com/Portable-Navi...2488225--session_id.023841121--view_id.953445

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Ok will put in a small snowmobile battery i have down in the barn and a solecell panel for it.
That would do the trick.

I am just back from first test drive of the boat in the fjord.
The cable connected to the blue plint killed the engine fine so i will draw that upp to the switch.

And i also discoverd a few problems.

1: the 50hp engine fealt more like one of 15 to 20 hp
i discoverd when i got home that the ignition att full trottle was set to 43degrees instead of 34 degrees and i think that
will make a huge diffrance

2: Water came in at the back of the boat. found 2 cut of bolts left in place by the old guy
they was hidden under the engine brackets so i had not seen them.Will remove those and put some
marine filler in the holes.

3: the stering was sucky 1/3 feet movement on the wheel before the engine moved, witch made the boat snake.
think there is a adjust bolt for that will check that out.

Rather minor problems to fix so i dont feel to bad.

/Thomas

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Make sure the carb butterflies are opening all the way after you do the timing, at maximum spark advance the carbs should just be starting to open and as you advance the throttle they should go wide open. Good luck, keep us posted

/Bob

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

They already was open full before i made the change to the ignition setting. Will screwing on the ignition screw change that?

Ps used a scotch paint remover and Discoverd 2 more cut of bolts hidden under the paint. Now all holes are. plugged. Has bought a 1feet long drill and after putting the engine back i will use that and drill 4New holes and use acidproof bolts in combination with silicone to secure the engine.

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

No setting the timing will not change the throttle opening, I just wanted to make sure you were getting wide open throttle.

 

[satanclause]

Re: 1968 Mercury 500 electrical questions

Will double check that tomorrow, think that is one thing i do want to happen haha. My Luck i probably missed someting and test ran on a fubar setting haha. Will let you know result of safety check

As this is a twostroker and i replaced fuel line,ultrasonic cleaned the carbs in a bath of brakeclean. The ignition was only thing i could think of as reason for tired engine. Checked compression and it was 145psi i think. Naah as ignition was of 9deg the problem is Def there i think.

/Thomas