1969 85hp evinrude possible to interchange lower units

bruce h

Cadet
Joined
Apr 8, 2002
Messages
10
is it possible to interchange the lower units with something newer to get away from the electric shift if there is let me know what model and horse power :rolleyes:
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 16, 2002
Messages
1,059
Re: 1969 85hp evinrude possible to interchange lower units

Don't bother.. its too hard..<br /><br />I have an 85hp evin 69.. and it has the same leg as my 100HP johnson 1972....<br /><br />the hydroelectrics went to 76 or so I believe.. and to swap to a newer one.. you'd first have to check that the bolt pattern exhaust, water pump and everything else match up. (unlikely)<br /><br />and then you'd have the problem of running the linkage up the leg and into the powerhead housing.. then you'd have to make a linkage for it. and then you'd need to run a cable or like out to the control..<br /><br />its really not worth it..<br /><br />besides, the hydroelectrics are pretty good I think.. get them working, keep them clean and with fresh oil (the proper electric gearcase stuff from OMC) and I think you will be ok..<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank
 

bruce h

Cadet
Joined
Apr 8, 2002
Messages
10
Re: 1969 85hp evinrude possible to interchange lower units

thanks do you know the omc oil type and have you had to take the gear system out of yours i think the hydrolic pump is gone
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 16, 2002
Messages
1,059
Re: 1969 85hp evinrude possible to interchange lower units

I have a bottle of the stuff on the desk in front of me.. its just called OMC Premium blend Gearcase oil.. and in a yellow square on the lable it states that its for electric shift lower gearcases. (also states that on the back.)<br /><br />Was your motor sitting for ages? do you find you only have forwards? no neutral or reverse?<br />also, before you strip your gearcase.. I resurrected mine by taking if off the OB,, drained it, filled the foot with premix fuel.. and hooked it up to my cordless drill.. (do this with the soleniods out I suggest) spun it around for a few minutes, let it sit for a while, give it another little spin.. and then drain it.. let it dry for a while, flush some oil through it.. and then put the bungs back in and fill her with oil.. (after reinstalling your soleniods)<br /><br />The premix will desolve the oil gum that is probably sticking the oil pump plunger thingy...<br /><br />then get some jumper leads and a battery.. <br /><br />hook negative on the battery to the leg somewhere..<br />and use the positive to connect to the soleniod wires.. if I remember correctly.. no power to either should give you forwards.. power to one wire will give you neutral.. and power to both will give you reverse.. but it won't happen till you have it spinning on the cordless as the pump has to be spinning to do anything.. I was able to veryify it was working before putting it back on the OB...<br /><br />Like I said, this is only a suggestion.. but it worked for me.. and I really didn't want to strip my gearcase.. <br /><br />Search the archives of this BB.. I posted about it heaps and Mr Schematic and others helped me out no end.. there are even some pics of the layout..<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Franki
 
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