1971 50hp Johnson Bad Neutral/No Start

[ozmihkboy]

I've recently picked up my 2nd boat project (1st was left at my last duty station when i moved in military). I got a great deal on a '69 tomahawk, with a '71 50Hp Johnson. Good for me because i have a 2nd 1971 50hp Johnson off my other boat. I am trying to "awaken" the newer 50Hp Johnson. I have ordered a reprint of the factory manual, but i figured i'd ask some questions in the mean time. My electric start engine is VERY slow to turn over, when i hold down the starter solenoid, it whirs, to life, but when left to engage with the fly wheel it barely turns over under a load, and the prop wants to spin. Long story short, i'm having a problem getting the motor into neutral. I've tried moving the Electric shift lever to all positions avaiable, but it moves nothing on the linkage inside the engine compartment. I have physically moved the linkage by the engine, and still no dice, the prop wants to spin. My only questions is, if this a pretty serious problem, or an i overlooking something quite common sense to most boat keen people? Once again, i have a book coming, and i hope it helps me out, but we all know, books dont answer back when you ask them questions. Thanks in advance for all the help and sorry this is so lenghty!

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: 1971 50hp Johnson Bad Neutral/No Start

If it is a 1971 (model number would help) it is actually a HYDRO electric shift. The motor is designed to start in forward gear and after a full rotation of the flywheel to shift into neutral. Stuck in forward is designed as a fail safe on that motor.

It sounds like you aren't getting enough cranking speed to build the pressure to shift it out of forward. There is if again it is a 1971 and a hydro electric shift then there are no linkages under the cowl to move. If it is a 1971 Hydro Electric drive then if you look on the port side of the engine towards the back you should see two wires coming out of the midsection around the back there should be a Blue and a Green wire.

With a voltage tester test the green wire with the motor in Neutral it should have 12v.

With the unit in reverse test both the blue and green wire need 12v

In forward neither wire should have any voltage.

That is the first test.

I would also take apart all the electrical connections from the solenoid to the starter and clean them all.

Take the battery to Autozone and get it load tested, and get a FULL charge put on it.

Then take a compression test.

Lots of good info in the Awakening a Sleeping outboard thread.

 

[ozmihkboy]

Re: 1971 50hp Johnson Bad Neutral/No Start

Thanks for the in depth explanation. After i posted the first question, i kept searching for threads reguarding the same problem and found some info about the wires you mentioned. To throw another wrench in the mix, my "hydro electric start" shifting console, (there's a small relay/switch that has green and blue wires connected to it in the whole shifting mechanism), has been ripped out and an aftermarket 3 way toggle switch has been inserted to control forward, neutral, and reverse. I now know what im looking for at the engine and thank you for your response. The battery is good, as it is an optima red top, out of my old reliable f150. I am going to rip apart all power and ground connections, and make sure they are not corroded, and no resistance. Thanks again for your help, by the in depth explanation of wires, i should be good to go in no time!

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: 1971 50hp Johnson Bad Neutral/No Start

Thanks for the in depth explanation. After i posted the first question, i kept searching for threads reguarding the same problem and found some info about the wires you mentioned. To throw another wrench in the mix, my "hydro electric start" shifting console, (there's a small relay/switch that has green and blue wires connected to it in the whole shifting mechanism), has been ripped out and an aftermarket 3 way toggle switch has been inserted to control forward, neutral, and reverse. I now know what im looking for at the engine and thank you for your response. The battery is good, as it is an optima red top, out of my old reliable f150. I am going to rip apart all power and ground connections, and make sure they are not corroded, and no resistance. Thanks again for your help, by the in depth explanation of wires, i should be good to go in no time!

BE EXTREMELY carefull with that aftermarket switch I would strongly advise for looking on ebay or Cl and finding a factory switch. or at VERY minimum I would rip the previous owner's work out of it and start from scratch there are several good threads on here about how to safely do an aftermarket switch. This is a Johnson motor right do you have a pic of the motor or controls?