1971 Johnson 60ESL71C 60hp Completely Dead

[RocketLauncher]

Thank ya'll for the help with the spark plug thread rebuild on another post. I did the spark plug today and seems good but for my surprise when I hooked the battery leads and fuel line and turned the key on - nothing happened. Completely dead. I wonder if it could be a bad shifter switch not engaging the neutral solenoid and playing dead because of that? It's dead like nothing was connected. What could cause it to act dead? The choke solenoid moves a little bit if I push the toggle switch on the control box but that's all. No noises, not cranking, no clicks or anything. Is there a safety switch or fuse somewhere on the wiring that I couldn't find? I did notice that the purple wires in the control box coming from the shifter switch were getting hot, maybe a short somewhere? I am clueless

 

[RocketLauncher]

I followed the white wire from the starter solenoid to the safety switch under the flywheel. the switch has two connectors, the white wire goes into one but the other one is not connected to anything at all. is that normal? is it grounded on the bolt and doesnt need another wire there or is there a wire missing that should be grounded?

 

[F_R]

Correct, one white wire on the switch. No connection to the other side (both sides are the same thing)

That motor does not have start in neutral protection (shift has nothing to do with starting--or not)

 

[RocketLauncher]

Thanks F_R, that safety switch was my only clue. Back to square one
My next options would be amplifier and starter solenoid, but would any of them if faulty cause the motor to not give any sign it might be alive? literally I turn the key and nothing happens at all. totally dead any ideas would be highly appreciated

 

[racerone]

Use booster cables directly to the starter.----Report what happens.

 

[F_R]

Here is the wiring diagram. Check out the starting circuit with a voltmeter. If you don't know how to do that, enlist help from somebody that does, before you go spending money on something that isn't bad.

No, the amplifier has nothing to do with it.

 

[Crosbyman]

the selenoid has 2 small posts one goes to ground the other small control post waits for +12 from the start post on the key

that 12v comes via a fused wire so check the fuse then trun the key to start and the selenoid (magnet) should click and energize the starter motor

no click means
1- no 12volts reaching the selenoid +12 v post … could be just broken wire bad connection corroded connection whatever
2- selenoid inside wiring open …. needs a new selenoid
3- bad ground on the ground wire of the selenoid post ( redo connections look for broken wires you need a ground on the ground post !!!

selenoid are just electro-magnets and they need 12v juice and ground to work …. then you can worry about the starter….if dead

did you jumper 12v from the battery to the starter post has asked ?? results ??

dont worry you will find it… this basic trouble shooting

 

[RocketLauncher]

12v direct to the starter makes it engage and spin, wont spin the flywheel completely but it tries to spin it. will have to buy a voltmeter after work to check the circuits

 

[racerone]

Remove lower unit and see if it will turn over.-----Or have your battery load tested.-----Testing and trouble shooting is the path forward.

 

[RocketLauncher]

Hey guys, tried the starter with direct 12v and it spins (wont spin the flywheel completely but it engages and spins)

 

[racerone]

???----Have the battery load tested !!---Check lower unit for oil.-----Remove lower unit to see if flywheel turns properly with the starter.-----The testing and work has to be done by you.

 

[RocketLauncher]

Tomorrow I will get the battery tested (10:40am here, I'm at work not at home). It's funny that nothing clicks, no solenoids noise, nothing, it's just completely dead. Will get a voltmeter too and check if there is any power going to the starting system. I will remove the gearbox on Sunday and see if the flywheel spins once shaft is disconnected

 

[kbait]

If you pull the spark plugs, you can spin flywheel by hand to discern any gearcase binding issue.. should spin smooth and easy.
Also, if you have 8 ga. or higher wire in your jumper cables, you likely can’t get proper amps through them to spin powerhead with plugs in. I use a set of 4ga. cables for testing starter motors..
Good luck!

 

[Crosbyman]

you can do a lot of testing with just a 12v bulb and 2 wires ground one side the other side becomes your test probe.

the bulb should light up when probing for +12 v

probe the key ST post and when starting you should see light ON if so move over to the selenoid control post (not the ground side the side from the switch wire)

turn te key to start and the bulb should light up ...........if not possible broken wire between the key ST post and the selenoid


try applying 12v to the selenoid +12 control post directly it should click and spin the starter

if not then the selenoid is open or not grounded properly

put a solid ground on the ground control post and reapply 12v on the selenoid +12v control post if nothing happens ….selenoid is likely open internally … replace it


p.s. do clean all connections

 

[RocketLauncher]

Thanks fellas for all your help. Will try all these on the weekend (tomorrow I am moving homes and will have a big garage on the new one where I can spend sometime working on it). Fingers crossed I will find the issue

 

[F_R]

Everybody keeps saying one of the small solenoid posts should be grounded.. Well yes and no. It is grounded through the safety switch at slow throttle settings. Easy test is ground the safety switch wire. If it cranks now, you have a bad safety switch or it is out of adjustment, or throttle set too high.

I think you have a battery problem, or dirty, corroded or loose battery cable connections. That is the first place to start your troubleshooting anyway.

 

[wannabewelder]

It turns slow when boosted.
1 battery
2 battery cable ends
3 brushes

Solenoid doesn't engage when jumped

1 bad battery terminals / cable termination - battery turns slow so the voltage should click solenoid and check MCA.

Choke operates somewhat.
Voltage drop. A 12V test light is a BAD way to diagnose this. BATTERY CABLE ENDS.
With no DVOM:
Ground motor to battery and try.
Jump battery + to solenoid retry.
Ground small wire on solenoid retry.
At this point if solenoid is not trashed (I bet it's fine) your issue is in the key harness.

Finally take the starter off and whack some brushes in it it will turn faster.

 

[wannabewelder]

I also should have noted VERIFY booster cables are of sufficient gauge. To small and the resistance will cause them to get hot, smoke, possibly not start motor.
The fact the choke sol. works partially indicates voltage drop.

 

[racerone]

The owner of this motor needs to do some simple trouble shooting.

 

[F_R]

That motor has the two-stage choke solenoid. Closing half way when key is turned on is normal. Should slap shut tightly when choke switch is activated.