Re: 1972 1150 115hp
Lots of good info right here:<br /><br />
http://forums.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=36 <br /><br />I would recommend changing the impeller, giving it a decarbonizing treatment, and a good tuneup.<br /><br />Change out the spark plugs, drain/refill the gear oil with Hi-Vis marine oil. Check the filter screens on the carbs or fuel filter screen at the fuel pump (can't recall which one yours has).<br /><br />Drop the distributor cap (there's a clamp/screw assy that holds it in place. Flush out the insides of the cap with carb cleaner spray, catch the effluent with a rag. Check the spring-loaded carbon contact in the center of the cap, it should move freely. If not pull it out and clean. There are grease fittings on the distributor, also on the motor swivel which should be greased.<br /><br />Read this post by Clams Canino titled "Timing and Sync of Merc Inlines (to 1988)" Lots of good info here to allow you to set up your motor so it'll live a longer and happier life!<br /><br />Set up your motor so that Wide-Open-Throttle with a light load is around 5500 rpm. Inline Merc's don't like to be "lugged" and it's bad for their health. If you don't have a tach on your boat, highly recommended to install one. You can find a good deal at discount marine online stores or lots of them on eBay. Each change in prop pitch changes your motor's WOT rpm by around 200 rpm; less pitch means more rpm, higher pitch less rpm.<br /><br />Speaking of props, pry up the little lock tabs that hold the prop nut in place; wedge the prop with a 2X4 or other suitable Wooden Lump, and remove the prop nut (takes a 15/16" socket, right-handed threads). Clean off the prop shaft and slather on a coating of waterproof marine grease (I like the blue Sta-Lube boat bearing grease myself). This'll keep your prop from ever freezing to the shaft. Removing a frozen-on prop is a very unpleasant task indeed!<br /><br />Use good oil and gas, mid-grade is probably a good compromise given the extreme cost of fuel nowadays. Try to avoid alcohol-laden fuels, as old 2-strokes don't like them. <br /><br />You don't have to pay inflated prices for marine spark plugs, most auto parts stores stock them or can get them. Your motor takes a Champion L76V, Autolilte 2852, or equiv in NGK etc.<br /><br />Wal-Mart has Penzoil Synthetic Blend oil for around $10/gal, Good Stuff. They also have a good deal on the marine-rated Hi-Vis gear oil, last time I bought some it was around $3/qt. <br /><br />Your lower unit holds less than 25 oz. You can get pumps from most marine/auto parts stores which will fit the bottle and make it a lot easier to refill the gearcase.<br /><br />When draining gear oil, remove the (lower) drain plug first, then the (upper) vent plug. Fill from the bottom until oil runs out the vent plug. Then reinstall the vent plug, remove the fill rig from the drain plug and reinstall the drain plug. Both drain and vent plugs have gaskets so make sure they are present & in good shape.<br /><br />Get yourself a manual, Seloc is pretty comprehensive with easy-to-understand info for the layman.<br /><br />Some good resources for parts and info online (besides this site):<br /><br />
www.mercurypartsexpress.com (look up/price OEM Merc parts)<br /><br />
http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/collections/index.cfm?fuseaction=collectdetails&colid=01 (contains parts catalogs & illustrations so you can look up part numbers for your motor).<br /><br />
http://www.boatfix.com/searchsierra.asp (look up aftermarket parts for your motor, pretty good prices here).<br /><br />Anyway, that's just a quick overview, I expect some of the other folks can fill in anything I glossed over. Tons and tons of good info here so "cruise" this site and I bet a lot of your questions will be answered.<br /><br />HTH and enjoy your new rig...........ed
