1972 Hydro-electric 50hp

Paulywog0667

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Aug 5, 2017
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I haven't updated about the motor in awhile as, I had no intentions of working on it until winter, but. I have a new seal kit, forward and pinion gear for it. Got the carbs finished and basically have the lower assembly taken apart excluding behind the forward gear. I want to get the next section out, but what gear allows to dump out behind the forward gear? Looking at the dog clutch, I'd guess it's in forward. I wasn't going to mess with it, but the old forward and pinion had damage and I hear rattling. Plus it looks nasty dirty and don't want smashed old gear rust binding new gears. Should I be able to drop the solenoids back in and; neutral or reverse to dump the rest out?
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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No, no---The solenoids stay out !-----The pinion gear must be removed and the driveshaft must be pulled out.----Forward gear will then FALL out.
 

Paulywog0667

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I already took out the forward gear. I was asking what gear to put it in after having to put the solenoids back in to get the rest out. Like a manual shift needing to be in reverse. Wasn't sure if the hydroelectric is the same? Behind forward needs to come out.
 

Paulywog0667

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Someone hit something with the motor and the housing needs welded too. I was debating leaving behind forward in for the weld, but heard rattling and seen a bunch of rust sludge. Guessing old ground up forward and pinion teeth. I like double checking if any tricks to not put solenoids back for process of elimination. Or if a quick either solenoid and dump the insides of the assembly?
 

jimmbo

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Someone hit something with the motor and the housing needs welded too. I was debating leaving behind forward in for the weld, but heard rattling and seen a bunch of rust sludge. Guessing old ground up forward and pinion teeth. I like double checking if any tricks to not put solenoids back for process of elimination. Or if a quick either solenoid and dump the insides of the assembly?

"housing needs welded too" That could mean a slight crack, small hole, big hole, broken Skeg, missing Skeg with or without part of gearcase attached to Skeg. Myself I would be looking for a replacement housing. You might be trying to weld up a gearcase that is distorted and will never have proper alignment or may never seal properly again

The propshaft, removed from the gearcase, will be in forward, as it should be while in the gearcase with engine not running.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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The oil pump / valve body is in the front !----There are 1/4-NC threaded holes in there to use a slide hammer to pull it out.----Solenoids stay out !------Welding may distort the precision bore that the oil pump locates in.
 

Paulywog0667

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 5, 2017
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I don't have a slide hammer, but seals are showing I probably should. Can I avoid a slide hammer buy from putting it in a gear? Or is it basically similar to pulling the carrier, but slide hammer is actually the right way and I'll be back to the solenoid chamber?
 

Paulywog0667

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Aug 5, 2017
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I found a video. Didn't notice a retaining ring should be there. Thank you for the help.
 

racerone

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I do not believe the 72 model 50 hp has a retaining ring in front of the pump housing !-----I mentioned that the solenoids stay out !----You insist on thinking it should be in gear ????
 
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Paulywog0667

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No, I found a video showing pulling the shift assembly. The video had a retaining ring, but checked and mine doesn't. I've been cleaning gears, etc., and been researching between. I'm guessing a good file of the clutch dog and reverse gear will be the only real issue. The shift assembly was caked with rust and had to clean some before a good view. I'll probably pick up two 1/4 thread rods sometime before the ground thaws. I ordered the pinion and forward gear. Then never looked at the reverse and clutch dog wear. Being reverse, I believe they can be filed.

I was double asking because every video I saw before, showed similar models and weren't needing a slide hammer. It'll be nice getting it out to learn though. I still need to pick up an owners manual for it, but will probably use 2× 1/4 threaded rods, nuts and a plate to pull it.
 
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