1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

[99silverado]

Hi, I'm new to the forum and have got some questions regarding my 1973 50hp Evinrude electric-shift motor on my 1972 16' Kingfisher. I bought the boat over a year ago and it had been running enough to get me from one spot to the next. Here is in order my problems:<br /><br />When I first bought it, it would shift really hard into gear. It felt like a big stall in drag car and would always make a big noise. It wouldn't go into reverse either. Most the time it wouldn't even go into neutral, I would have to shut it off in foward.<br /><br />The next problem would be when I was at full throttle. After about 2/3 throttle, the power would dip dramatically, to just above idle it seemed. If I would let off the throttle some, it would jump back up to a nice torquey acceleration. It still does this.<br /><br />After 2 or 3 times of riding it for about 10-15 minutes, it doesn't feel as if it has as much power. <br /><br />I had the electric shift push button/shift control thing replaced with a brand new one. It seemed to work a little better. The reverse would work, as well as the neutral and foward. Every now and then, it sticks like I mentioned earlier and I have to shut it off in foward. <br /><br />Now, I can't get it to start. After many times of trying to crank it will flood, fuel comes out the exhaust and the spark plugs will be wet.<br /><br />Can anybody help me figure out what is wrong with it? Could it be an electrical, fuel, or motor problem? I'm fixing to put a bunch of pictures of the boat/motor on my website. I'm gonna number the pictures of certain parts of the controls/parts that I don't know the name of or how to adjust. So, please help me out! Thanks.

 

[alden135]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

Welcome to iboats <br /><br />What kind of oil did you use in the lower unit?

 

[DJ]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

Post a model and serial number. If it's a '73' it won't be electric shift.

 

[99silverado]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

Thanks! I swapped it out with regular oil at first, then found out that I was supposed to use the special "Evinrude-Electric Shift" Lower unit oil.<br /><br />I'll get the part numbers and post the pictures as soon as I get home in about two hours.

 

[MCM]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

As for the no start situation and wet plugs your probably dealing with a no or insufficient spark situation. The power drop off you referred to is also an indication of an ign. system problem.<br /><br />Do you have a tach and is/was it working? check the battery and all the connections, make sure their clean and tight. If those are the original battery cables they may need to be replaced as they may not be much more than green mush underneath the insulation.<br /><br />Inspect the stator under the flywheel for signs of overheating such as cracking or a sticky syrrupy substance dripping off of it.<br /><br />And as DJ mentioned post the model#, it can be found on a tag located on the transom mounting bracket.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

With this engine, start right at the beginning, compression, spark, fuel.

 

[99silverado]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

Wow! Thanks for all the responses so far! I don't have a tach or anything. I do believe they are the original battery cables. Where can I order some more and is it easy to swap them out?<br /><br />The Model # 50273 C<br /><br />It also says, Operating Range 5000-6000rpms, 50hp @ 5500rpms<br /><br />I just posted the pictures. Go to my link in my sig and click on "Boat". The last pictures are the pics of my motor. Please look at them and see if anything looks out of the normal. I've numbered some of the pictures I have questions about. Here they are:<br /><br />#1: Is that black cap supposed to be there? What is it for?<br /><br />#2: What does that screw do and should it be adjusted?<br /><br />#3: Is it easy to find these coils/plug wires?<br /><br />#4: What is this wire and should it be pinched under the clamp-like thing?<br /><br />#5: How much do I adjust this knob?<br /><br />I know a bunch about the LS1/LS2/LS6/LM7/LQ4/LQ9 motors, but nothing about carb motors. Especially boats, so if ya'll can explain to me a little, I'll be able to understand. Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

[99silverado]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

I just thought of something else, usually when it first cranks, the first couple of minutes, it smokes pretty bad. After it's warmed up and run a few minutes it cuts down on the smoke. Does this sound like a bad oil ring?If so, how much would that cost to replace?

 

[alden135]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

The chart says that's a 1972.

 

[99silverado]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

oh, well now I know. I was wondering about that. The guy I bought it from told me it was 1973, but then again, he told me it had a livewell where the storage box is! He was 80 years old!

 

[alden135]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

The other guys will be more help than me as far as straightening out your problems. I would suggest though that you buy an OE service manual. I got mine from marineengine.com. There are others. I found the factory manual to be much more specific and helpful than the generic ones.

 

[MCM]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

As has been mentioned you should really get an OEM service/shop manual for your motor. Here's a couple on Ebay, click here, and here, alot of smoke at startup untol the motor warms up isn't all that uncommon. A compression test would be prudent thing to do since the motor is new to you.<br /><br />And since it is new to you this thread may provide some answers and get you started in the right direction.<br /><br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=36;t=000033;p=1#000000 <br /><br />As for your cables if the wiring is turning green it's probably time to replace them, you can make your own out of 4 gauge battery cable or buy them as new sets, try here at Iboats or maxrules.com, or your local marine shops. Make sure you have a fully charge battery, they don't last forever and need replacing from time to time. Battery should be a deep cycle marine starting battery with a minimum of 70 amp hrs. or better.

 

[MCM]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

Silverado, OK, to answer a few of your earlier questions.<br /><br />#1: The black cap is a plug for the air silencer cover, it provides access to the carbs slow speed idle adjustment needle and yes it should be there. Do not adjust that screw for now.<br /><br />#2: That screw is an idle adjustment screw, it will also avdance/retard the idle timing. There's no need to make any adjustments to it for now. Adjusting things without knowing what they do or if they need adjustment can create problems that don't already exist <br /><br />#3: Those are the ignition coils, they are readily available at many online parts stores including here at Iboats. The OEM p/n is 0580821 superceded to p/n 0502890. The aftermmarket Sierra p/n is 18-5194, yours look to be in very good condition but thats not saying they are. Inspect them for any cracks, even small ones can cause problems.<br /><br />#4: That part is the choke solenoid, the yellow/purple wire should be connected to terminal #5 on the terminal strip (rectangular part) I beleive, its located in the area of the ign. coils. The black cover should say which color coded wires connect to which terminal, the manual will also tell you this.<br /><br />#5: Thats the lean/rich mixture adjustment knob and I can't tell you where it should be adjusted to. Again you'll need the manual to help you there.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

Before putting any money in this engine. That 50 HP twin was not known for it's longevity. I would start out with a compression test, and pulling the cylinder head would not hurt. On this type engine, I start with a compression test, followed with a leak-down test. The screw in the first picture is an idle stop screw only. The timing adjustment screw is in the upper right of the picture, it has the rubber boot on the end.The clamp on the choke solinoid should be adjusted so that 5/16" of the solinoid plunger protrud's beyound it's case, That will leave more of that wire exposed. The hydro-electric case should shift smoothly, and instantly with out noise. You can address that after you determine the engine is sound. It may well have to come apart for cleaning, and repair. This gearcase has a low tolerance for water leak's, or gummed, and dirty oil.

 

[MCM]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

I can't speak for the gearcase on that motor, but I do own the '75 Johnson version of it and after replacing a few ign. parts last summer I wouldn't be surprised to see it run another 30 yrs. of course having 150 psi on both cyl. will help

 

[99silverado]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

Thanks for all the info! How do I do a compression test and what do I need to do it?

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

Most any auto store, or Sear's stocks this guage. It is simply a pressure guage attached to a length of rubber pressure hose with attachents to fit different size spark plug hole's. You screw it in, crank the engine over, and note the reading. Hopefully they will be within 10% of one another. Before spending money on the guage for one time use, it would be cheaper to pull the cylinder head, and check the cylinder wall condition. It won't tell if the ring's are stuck, but if they are, the cylinder wall will be most time's scuffed.

 

[99silverado]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

Originally posted by R.Johnson:<br /> Most any auto store, or Sear's stocks this guage. It is simply a pressure guage attached to a length of rubber pressure hose with attachents to fit different size spark plug hole's. You screw it in, crank the engine over, and note the reading. Hopefully they will be within 10% of one another. Before spending money on the guage for one time use, it would be cheaper to pull the cylinder head, and check the cylinder wall condition. It won't tell if the ring's are stuck, but if they are, the cylinder wall will be most time's scuffed.

I'll probably just get the tool, if it's not too expensive. I might could use it for something else down the line anyways.<br /><br />IF it is the wall is scuffed or the rings are burnt or whatever, am I looking at a bunch of money to repair it?

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

If you have a scuffed cylinder [cylinders] along with a possible gearcase problem, you could spend alot of money on a engine of that age. That's why I would take a look at those cylinder's right from the start. A piston, cylinder problem is not all that uncommon on that engine. Removing the cylinder head does not cost anything, and will tell you which way to go right there.

 

[MCM]

Re: 1973 50hp Evinrude electric shift won't start...Help!

About $39.00 at Autozone or Walmart. A compression test can provide some valuable info as to the internal condition of the motor. Also you really should have a tach for this motor, they can provide valuable info in diagnosing problems with the motor and maintaining a healthy motor.<br /><br />I don't advise spending money buying parts needlessly without troubleshooting first with the exception being routine maintenance parts.<br /><br />The reason you're seeing unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust is because its just that (unburnt) hence no or insufficient spark, for whatever reason.<br /><br />Its possible that since you've already had problems with the lower unit or control box that it may still be causing problems. <br /><br />Here's a thread that applies specifically to your motor, pay particular attention to the post by Joe Reeves.<br /><br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=28;t=036594#000003