Re: 1973 Johnson Sea-Horse
BRC.... Usually it's not necessary to remove the core plugs. However, when it is necessary, use a center punch to tap the center in slightly. That usually frees it enough to pop out. If not, gently and carefully tap a pointed scribe through it so that you can pry it out/off.<br /><br />Be very carefull not to tap the punch or scribe too far in as that would damage the carburetor.<br /><br />That small hooked wire.... the small part hooks on the lip of the float needle valve. The larger, long part goes "over" the "top" of the float metal hinge. It does not rest on the bottom of the float hinge.<br /><br />The idea and purpose of that wire is so that should the needle valve be slightly stuck for some reason, the float (when it lowers) will pull the needle valve down with it.<br /><br />Adjust the carburetor as follows.<br /><br />(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)<br /><br />Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.<br /><br />Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.<br /> <br />Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. <br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway. (Good Luck)
