1974 140/1R outdrive tilt/trim

[bbook83]

After installing a new water pump and yoke seal, I reinstalled the outdrive and. Hacked the hydraulic tilt and all was well. A short while later I tried to tilt with the top 2 buttons of the three button switch and there was no solenoid click and no action. I charged the battery, which did not change anything. I put a jumper wire from the starboard side large terminal on the solenoid to the nearest small terminal. See the attached photo of the solenoid. The pump ran, but labored a bit and then there was a “clunk” and hydraulic fluid ran out of the base of the starboard hydraulic ram. After that, the pump still worked and lifted the drive until there was not enough fluid. Did I mess up something ny using the jumper wire?

 

[bbook83]

Checked the tilt not hacked.

 

[Bt Doctur]

I put a jumper wire from the starboard side large terminal on the solenoid to the nearest small terminal. See the attached photo of the solenoid. The pump ran,

You activated the up circuit

but labored a bit and then there was a “clunk” and hydraulic fluid ran out of the base of the starboard hydraulic ram.

You blew out the cylinder and lost the oil

 

[kenny nunez]

The reverse lock valve which keeps the drive from raising in reverse was either not adjusted or the drive was shifted in reverse is the cause. Later model Mercruisers incorporated a check ball in the pump which eliminated the shift linkage valve. You said you “hacked” the hydraulic system does that mean that you swapped some parts? If so that also could have caused the ram splitting. There is only 800 psi on the down circuit but 3k on the up side of the system.

 

[bbook83]

I tried to correct my original message. I meant to say I "checked" the operation of the tilt after installing the drive and it was fine. I do need to see if the shifter was in reverse. If it was, that was the reason the drive would not tilt up and I will be embarassed. The wiring diagram shows a blue wire going to the reverse lockout switch from the small solenoid pole that I jumped the power to. Did that action energize the reverse lock valve switch, which caused the ram to be restricted and "blow"? I notice that rebuild kits are available for the cylinder. I'm sure I won't know till I take the cylinder apart, but is the rebuild kit likely to give me what I need for repair?

 

[bbook83]

Well, it turns out that when I was checking for proper shifting after the drive reinstall, I left the shift lever in reverse. Later, I attempted to raise the drive by pushing the top two buttons on the switch, but got no solenoid click or pump action, because the reverse lockout switch prevented it. Not realizing the shift lever was still in reverse, I jumped the solenoid and ran the rams up, forcing it against the reverse lockout valve, as Kenny indicated and, as he also indicated, split the ram, as shown in the attached photo. There is some serious pressure there. I have not yet tried to source a new ram, but will likely have to get a used one and put a rebuild kit in it unless somebody has another idea.

 

[kenny nunez]

You can get a empty ram tube and swap the internals. Sierra has them
#18-2148 is a empty ram tube.
#18-2291 is the seal/ O ring kit
#18-2142 is a complete ram.
Good luck.

 

[bbook83]

The empty tube is probably the best/cheapest route for me. I see there are even some new OEM Mercruiser #77442A1 tubes on ebay. Thanks much to Kenny and Doc for the help.