Mark_VTfisherman
Lieutenant
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2008
- Messages
- 1,489
Of course one of the quintessential builds for quality and thoroughness is grandad's http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...arcraft-holiday-reno-and-hull-repair?t=517895 and I've read that for inspiration, among others.
I'm in the midst of bringing my Holiday back into service. Currently gutted. The hull apparently had a very bad event with the previous owner, and the damage appears like it broke free of its mooring and got pounded ashore, while other 'symptoms' indicate that it may have travelled down the road after unloading itself from the (cox roller bunk) trailer. Like the bow keel aft end that has been flattened off-angle to the port side. Or maybe both!?
I'm having an issue with weeping through the bow keel rivets. They are tight, and have been 'reset' along with replacing about 90 rivets along the hull length. However, it appears that some at the bow keel were either mis-installed from the factory, or an attempted repair from said prior damage was done poorly. However, the factory goopygump in this area appeared undisturbed so... no visible cracks, but some rivets are off-centered in their respective holes. I've poured water in this area, and the 'leak' is minimal as it took most of the day to weep-off a cup of water. (lowered the tongue jack just so to insure water would only be in the 'test' area)
I'm thinking of replacing a few of these with fresh rivets set wet in 5200. I don't want to try to gluvit approach as I view that as temporary - other ares on the boat have this or another product like it applied from the inside and it had failed in every place. (The Starcraft factory goopygump is much tougher and quite was difficult to remove in the bow.) Interestingly, the initial pour-in-water test of this area had water running right out. Now it's a very very minimal weep, so I'm heading in the right direction anyway!
However, because the metal was damaged here, another approach I thought might have merit is using 1/4-28 stainless panhead bolts well-saturated with polyurethane adhesive(5200). This would let me draw the parts down whereas with a couple other re-rivet locations the rivet was not able to sufficiently draw the latitudinal ribs/frames together along the keel thereby leaving me questioning the long term effectiveness of the repairs there. (The hull is sandwiched between the inner frames and keel extrusion as some may already know). I have found no visible stress cracks in the hull, frames, or bowkeel extrusion at the area of concern. After tightening the stainless bolts and nylok nuts, I thought I would scuff the area, acetone wipe it, blow it dry, and use a putty knife to smear-seal the entire riveted area with 5200 to replace the (removed) Starcraft goopygump. The other advantages to 1/4" bolts is that the newly-drilled hole will let me examine for hidden cracks in hull metal, AND the 1/4" hole will swallow the aforementioned space that's around a couple of the (probably factory) rivets.
What are the Starcraft gurus opinions on this approach?
I'm in the midst of bringing my Holiday back into service. Currently gutted. The hull apparently had a very bad event with the previous owner, and the damage appears like it broke free of its mooring and got pounded ashore, while other 'symptoms' indicate that it may have travelled down the road after unloading itself from the (cox roller bunk) trailer. Like the bow keel aft end that has been flattened off-angle to the port side. Or maybe both!?
I'm having an issue with weeping through the bow keel rivets. They are tight, and have been 'reset' along with replacing about 90 rivets along the hull length. However, it appears that some at the bow keel were either mis-installed from the factory, or an attempted repair from said prior damage was done poorly. However, the factory goopygump in this area appeared undisturbed so... no visible cracks, but some rivets are off-centered in their respective holes. I've poured water in this area, and the 'leak' is minimal as it took most of the day to weep-off a cup of water. (lowered the tongue jack just so to insure water would only be in the 'test' area)
I'm thinking of replacing a few of these with fresh rivets set wet in 5200. I don't want to try to gluvit approach as I view that as temporary - other ares on the boat have this or another product like it applied from the inside and it had failed in every place. (The Starcraft factory goopygump is much tougher and quite was difficult to remove in the bow.) Interestingly, the initial pour-in-water test of this area had water running right out. Now it's a very very minimal weep, so I'm heading in the right direction anyway!
However, because the metal was damaged here, another approach I thought might have merit is using 1/4-28 stainless panhead bolts well-saturated with polyurethane adhesive(5200). This would let me draw the parts down whereas with a couple other re-rivet locations the rivet was not able to sufficiently draw the latitudinal ribs/frames together along the keel thereby leaving me questioning the long term effectiveness of the repairs there. (The hull is sandwiched between the inner frames and keel extrusion as some may already know). I have found no visible stress cracks in the hull, frames, or bowkeel extrusion at the area of concern. After tightening the stainless bolts and nylok nuts, I thought I would scuff the area, acetone wipe it, blow it dry, and use a putty knife to smear-seal the entire riveted area with 5200 to replace the (removed) Starcraft goopygump. The other advantages to 1/4" bolts is that the newly-drilled hole will let me examine for hidden cracks in hull metal, AND the 1/4" hole will swallow the aforementioned space that's around a couple of the (probably factory) rivets.
What are the Starcraft gurus opinions on this approach?
