1975 chrysler 55 hp serial # 557hg lower unit issue

[kino986]

Hey guys, I recently got rid of my Ole rude and got my hands on thus chrysler for a pretty good price.
So far I've rewired my boat and added a terminal block behind the dash to match the wire diagram to a T.
I have replaced and added
[New ignition coil]
(Ignition switch)
(Starter solenoid)
(Plugs)
Fresh mixed gas.
I primed her up and she started instantly with no hesitation
What I have going on is oil and smoke leaking from the lower unit. The smoked I'd assume is due to the exhaust being in such a small space along with the immense amount of oil circulating in areas it probably shouldn't.

I have diagnosed that the motor leg exhaust cover gasket was in terrible shape and will be replacing that in a day or two.
My guess is every seal is blown or bad in the lower unit especially the oil seal.
Any help please.
Also motor dies when put into forward gear. Idles like a top, shifts into reverse with no issues along with adding throttle while in reverse.
Please help.

 

[tommarvin]

Don't worry about the smoke in a small space, muffs where the water goes in both sides is easier, faster, less oily mess.
Drop the lower unit, check the driveshaft seal, and the shifter seal, O-rings etc.
The motor not idling in gear,our 125hp is supposed to idle at 750rpm when just in gear, what does your factory service manual say on idle rpm?

 

[kino986]

I'll have to check my manual, but motor idles like a charm just dies when put into forward gear.
Iv read that the problem could be due to mis alignment of the shift rod nut to where thus needs to be precisely lined up.
Can anyone help me identify or give me steps how to readjust this?

 

[tommarvin]

Make sure the motor is idling high enough for just in gear, before you start adjusting the shifter.
It's a little complicated to adjust shift rod without a factory service manual.
It goes something like this, full forward mark shifter shaft with pen,full reverse mark shifter shaft with small pen, half way in between is neutral.My gut tells me this is not the problem your motor won't idle just in forward gear.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Don't adjust anything until your sure that's what you need!!
​Gotta figure out the rpm's at idle.
Should be about 750-800 in gear.
1100 in N
I think your motors a 74

The smoke is normal.
At low speeds the motor doesn't need the 50-1 oil ratio so it smokes a bunch.
Once you get moving the extra oil burns off.

Do a compression test.Then a spark test.

Check the lower unit oil for water or rust or milky oil?

Going into R no stall.
Going into F and stalling could be a bearing is seized or the rpm's too low??

 

[kino986]

Selocs manual stats idle speed for 55 hp ranges 700 - 750 rpm.
How do I check this?
Also any special instructions on how to drop lower unit? What would the cause be showing me all that oil. I pin pointed it was leaking from the motor leg exhaust cover gasket because that was ripped at the bottom of the gasket.
Adjusting the idle is another question, should I turn the screw on the carb all the way in and back it out between 1 to 1 1/2 turns to see if that fixes the stalling when put into forward gear.

 

[wickware]

No Title

I have a 1970 35 HP Chrysler (with a 55 cover) with the long leg (maybe just due to extension). My understanding is 55 HP with short leg and 1 Carb vs 2 Carbs are the same as 35 HP (except for piston dia and stroke.

I have not seen this type of smoke or blow-by mix externally since my 1984 purchase. I would relate this to fuel mix, lack of sealing gaskets or exhaust restrictions. What is the compression and does the overheating indicator work?

I am not seeing much water being exhausted where all the smoke is showing in the barrel. I wonder if this overheating and causing excess residue and smoke?

If you do not have a manual, there is lots more on related info if you run a search on Wickware. I hope you can use ?key words? to narrow your searches.

 

[kino986]

I sent my pictures to a chrysler outboard mechanic and explained to him what I am dealing with. His answer is theverything previous owner ran vavoline or non recommended oil and the smoke and black oil leaking is caused by the motor " burning caked unit walls, and flushing its self " basically the previous owner ran the motor with not good oil or mix ratio and the oil lined the walls inside the unit leg and housing and all the motor is doing is burNing that old stuff off and trying to flush itself, he stated those motors drained themselves of water to prevent freezing water when stored in the winter therefor when ran the engine does a flush or will leak.
The stalling issue he said to turn the screw on the side of the motor where the cam is and turn it slightly clockwise to raise the idle because it sounds like the previous owner turned the idle down to run non recommended oil.
Will update when I finish playing with her, I am going to do a lower unit lube change and go from there.
Compression was right around 140.

 

[tommarvin]

The screw on the carb is the air/fuel mixture screw.
The idle screw is on the long vertical tower rod , ours has a lock nut to hold it tight.It should be in the seloc manual.

 

[jerryjerry05]

You'll need a timing light that can tell the rpm's.
​Or get a tiny tach under $20 or a hand held tach also under 20$

I'd get the tiny tach as you can use it on a bunch of stuff.
And it reads better on the outboard than the hand held.


The rpm's need to be set in the water in gear and warm..
750 is right.

No that you have changed the air screw setting you'll need to that again.

Start at 1 and 1/2 turn out from lightly seated.
Too much force can ruin the taper on the screw.
Remove and inspect.


The Chrysler mechanic sounds like he was using the wag method of diagnosis.
W. A. G. wild a&* guess!!!

Turning the cam isn't the way to increase the idle. That's done with the towershaft.

Turning the idle down to burn non recommended oil. What an idiot!!!

I hope you didn't pay this guy any $$$

The smoke, I explained that in the other post.
The black stuff is unburned gas/oil working it's way out.
(burning caked walls) IF?? your walls were caked???(that's a new one) the rigs would probably be seized and the comp wouldn't be as good as it is.

If there is a lot then the recirc system might be clogged. Don't do anything about that right now get it running and then you can work on the other things

That guy is bad, bad, bad.
Your in the right place, forget almost everything he said, except the part about the pump and motor being self draining..

Get a factory manual.
They sell books here but the factory one is what you need.
e-bay

 

[kino986]

Thank you very much jerryjerry, no I did not pay any money for advice over the phone and him looking at three pictures and video.
Might explain why he moved from metro detroit to the upper peninsula.
I ordered a new motor leg exhaust gasket which should arrive tomorrow or Friday once I reinstall that I'll crank her over again and mess with the screw on the tower shaft. I haven't touched the screw on the carb.
Lower unit oil when drained was uniform to color (dark green) no evidence of milky oil. Maybe some good news

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yup the oil sounds OK

 

[tommarvin]

1. You could check the air/fuel mixture screw to see if it's close.
2. Why is oil coming out of the LU ? Did the motor leg exhaust gasket fix it?
3. Could be a dirty idle jet(s) that's making the motor stall when put in gear?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Dirty idle jets???
​Dirty jet, it wouldn't idle.

 

[kino986]

Ok so here is what's going on, new gasket put on the motor leg exhaust cover plate. Motor still smokes in a trash can full of water but I'm expecting that. No more black water leaking where iv shown in the pictures above.
Motor is now running and idling good I have played with that idle speed adjustment screw a little. I am not 100% happy with it but pretty close.
So here's the new issue,
Motor idles great, shifts into reverse and can handle giving it throttle while in reverse with decent force.
Move back up to neutral idles good, move th3 shift control lever into forward gear and it does not engage forward but revs the engine with power when I give her throttle. I ran out of daylight so I'm stuck with wondering why the shift arm is not engaging the forward gear position.
Does this bring me back to the shift rod in the motor leg, I'M STUMPED!!

 

[wickware]

In My Opinion, the coupler that centers the shift rod is off. You have to start the threading equally ?in the neutral shift rod?s position? or you will have Reverse or forward vs both. The tolerance is just that close and a challenge I avoided after my 1[SUP]st[/SUP] challenge. I pulled the cotter pin connecting the rod to the L/U from then on (that my unit allowed, barely).

Do you have a manual? I found that was needed vs just help from the forum ?with no experience vs wasting time".

Good Luck!

 

[tommarvin]

Your shifter is out of adjustment,
Our factory service manual explains how to adjust the shifter perfectly

 

[jerryjerry05]

You chances of the shifter being "out of adjustment" are slim to none.
.It's probably a simple cable adjustment or shift rod adjustment.
There is a gear shift rod and it has a coupler.
​The coupler can be set too short?
The shift cable connector can be set too short?
I'd start with the shift cable and try adjusting the coupler.

Test the shifter and see if there is ANY slop when shifting??
It's easiest to check when the ends on the motor are disconnected.

 

[wickware]

Look at the info and Pics at the link below or post ob 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] page 3[SUP]rd [/SUP]post down (“1969 45 hp Crysler shift link removal&#148. We could be confusing you with terns (shifter, cable, coupler and shift rod).

I hope this helps!




http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...0140092-1969-45-hp-crysler-shift-link-removal

 

[wickware]

Look at the info and Pics at the link below or post ob 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] page 3[SUP]rd [/SUP]post down (?1969 45 hp Crysler shift link removal?). We could be confusing you with terns (shifter, cable, coupler and shift rod).

I hope this helps!

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...0140092-1969-45-hp-crysler-shift-link-removal