1976 Johnson 70hp won't crank

[dormanxc04]

I have a 1976 Johnson 70EL76 that I can't get to crank. I figured it was either the starter or the solenoid. So i did the jumper cable trick and walaa the engine cranked right up and runs like a dream. So i knew it had to be the solenoid. I have replaced that solenoid on my boat and i go to turn the key and get absolutely nothing still. What could be my issues? I put all the cables and wires on the exact same way as i found them on this new solenoid. I did the trick again with the new solenoid on here and it cranks right up again. So it obviously have to be somewhere between the starter and the battery where it is messing up? I am kind of out of ideas here. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[oldboat1]

Solenoid might not be grounded. Marine version? Can try running a ground jumper to one of the small posts.

 

[wrench 3]

Hook the booster cable from the battery to the battery side of the solenoid and see if it will crank. If it still doesn't crank, the starter to battery is OK.
If your grounding one of the small terminals make sure that it's the one with the black wire. The one with the white wire goes to the neutral switch in the remote control box and from there to the ignition switch.

 

[Lentine95]

One simple problem I once had when I had no crank, knew everything was hooked up right, and had a good charged battery was the little fuse was blown. Did the same thing as you are doing with jumping starter, put a new fuse in and and worked.

 

[flyingscott]

Definitely check the fuse. Then try wiggling the shift lever see if that does it and see if it starts. Otherwise with the key in the start position check for 12 volts at the small terminals on the solenoid. If you do not have power there after all the other checks look at the neutral safety switch or ignition switch.

 

[dormanxc04]

It is not the "marine" version. I got one that looked identical to the one off the boat at auto zone. Looks to be the same exact thing. Only thing different is that it had a place where you attach it to the motor with two bolts. Not sure if that's supposed to ground it? I know the ignition switch could be replaced and was in my intentions to do so. I checked that little glass fuse and it was just fine.

 

[dormanxc04]

No Title

 

[dormanxc04]

That's the one i purchased. I wouldn't see there being a difference in the parts. Could i be wrong?? Im about out of ideas. I was thinking of changing the ignition switch cuz like i said i know it needs to be replaced cuz its old and the key has good free wiggle when its sitting in there.

 

[wrench 3]

There are at least three different versions of that solenoid. The terminals perform different functions on each one. I don't know of an automotive version that works the same the one on your engine.

 

[dormanxc04]

So should my next step be to buy the original solenoid and see what happens before anything? Get the "correct" solenoid instead of that one in the picture? Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[oldboat1]

Yeah, about $35 or so for the oem version: 0586180.

 

[flyingscott]

Before you do anything put the old solenoid back on and run the tests in post # 5 It may not have been bad. Do the tests before you throw parts at it could be the neutral safety switch the fuse or the ignition switch.

 

[dormanxc04]

Flyingscott-makes total sense to me! Im all about saving some money and not throwing parts at it. Thanks for the advice. Ill do it today after work or tomorrow. Oldboat1 thanks for the part number! Ill update after I get through these next steps

 

[oldboat1]

Assuming your original is an outboard solenoid, you should be able to test it before hooking it up:

Set your multimeter at Rx1K ohms. (When you touch the leads together, you should get 0.)

Test 1: Connect the leads to the large solenoid terminals. If you get a LOW reading, replace the solenoid.

Test 2: Test again with battery jumpers connected to the small terminals (should hear a click.) If you get a HIGH reading, replace the solenoid.

 

[wrench 3]

Or, if you put it back on the engine, make sure the small black wire is grounded and jump the battery cable terminal to the white wire. If it cranks, the solenoid is OK and the problem is in one of the switches or the wiring for the switches. If it doesn't crank, connect the booster cable from the battery positive to the battery terminal on the solenoid and jump the battery to the white again. If it cranks, the problem is with the battery cable. If it doesn't, the problem is still with the switches.
Actually one of the best tools to test a starter system is a 12V test light. You can use it to see if you have power to the white wire when the key is turned. it can be used to check for ground on the black wire, or it can test to see if you still have power at the battery post of the solenoid when you try to start it.

 

[Fed]

It would be a lot easier to offer advice if we knew the solenoid was clicking or not when you turned the key to the start position.

 

[oldboat1]

One of my favorite tools is a simple continuity tester (battery/light/probe variety). Can easily test ignition switches and neutral safety switches -- also useful for figuring out harnesses and circuitry, particularly when half the wiring is out of sight, no color consistency (or rationale), and similar nicities of old boats and equipment. House and starting batteries are taken out of the mix, with potential shorts, blown fuses, etc. -- or worse.

 

[dormanxc04]

Sorry guys for taking a while to respond. I have been busy at work but thank yall all for the help. I went ahead and ordered the oem solenoid because it was only 30 dollars. It is rhe original solenoid so i figure what does 30 dollars hurt. It should be here tomorrow according to tracking of the shipment. I noticed the rectifier had one of the wires corroded out so went ahead and purchased that as well. So im 67 dollars into it. Not to shabby. Ill update yall tomorrow after i slap the solenoid on. Im assuming the black is the ground. What is the white wire for on the other small terminal?

 

[dormanxc04]

I never heard a click when i turned the switch on. Hope that helps Fed.

 

[dormanxc04]

I did get a constant 6 to 8 clicks when i went to turn the motor over with my key. Hope this helps. And before it would only click Sunday it was only spinning the fly wheel at a very veey slow pace. Like it was a dead battery but i knew it was fully charged.