Re: 1977 Chrysler Replacement Prop
Probably will not fit but it is way too expensive for an aluminum prop anyway. I am not familiar with the late 90s gearcase size so the hub might be too large a diameter. And, Isn't the Au dollar stronger than US meaning that that prop is more expensive in US dollars? Before buying any prop listed for late 1990s Force engines ask the seller for the actual hub diameter and compare to your lower unit. Your lower unit gearcase has just over 4 inch outside diameter and the prop hub where it fits into the gearcase casting needs to be just shy of 3 3/4 inch.
Anyway: For that money you can get a very good condition used stainless. AND---At 250 plus shipping that is too much money to experiment. Yes, I told you that you probably need a 19 pitch, BUT---that was an approximation. You really need to see what the top RPM are with the current prop and adjust from there.
No tach? Break down and buy one, even if it is a tiny tach. Without a tach, you are flying blind. Can't get where you are going unless you kmow where you are now.
At the current time, your beater prop can be repaired. Take each bent blade, one at a time and put it against an end grain of a 2 X 4 or 4 X 4. Gently tap out the bend working slowly to avoid cracking off the bent portion. Cast metal is always brittle. These cast aluminum props can be worked but if you try to do too much at once they will break. Once blades are approximately correct, file the edges smooth.
It can be re-hubbed for about 45 bucks and the same price for blade repair. So, for around 90 bucks your current aluminum prop can be made good again. However, with your engine jacked as high as you say, are you sure the hub is spun? Is it possible that at high speed/rpm you are ventilating?
In the photos, all I could see on the hub was"Michigan" I could not make out what appeared to be numbers in the first photo. Look between the blades and in the back or in the front. In one of these three places there will be a number with a suffix--maybe. The suffix, if it has it will be 17, 19, 21 etc. This is the pitch of your prop. If you are happy with performance now, that is the pitch you will want to buy.
As far as the year of your engine: These are not critical for me to remember but a one piece lower unit was designed around 1978. IF your engine has a distributor, it will most likely be 1977-78. If it has Prestolite ignition without a distributor, then it will be 79 to 84.
If your carbs have the black plastic covers or if they are missing, if the carbs have three threaded screw holes in the front, they are big TC carbs. Yeah, yeah! I said black plastic but I always paint mine. The WB carbs only have two bolt holes in front.
