1978 johnson javelin v4 85hp wont kick

Nigelmees

Cadet
Joined
Feb 15, 2014
Messages
9
Just bought a second hand motor which is a v4 1978 johnson 85hp. The compression on it is 110 in all four cylinders. Has been working prior to purchase and turns over well I just cant get the cylinder to fire. Im on my own so I havent got anyone to help with checking the spark but when I take the plugs out they are wet with fuel. Is there a way to check the coils I know there's a brand new one on there atm anyhelp would be handy.:eek:
 

SigSaurP229

Commander
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
2,123
I never have any help either. Maybe cause I told someone to grab the wire while I cranked and let me know if it hurt :lol: Seriously don't do that.

Anyways go to autozone or where ever and buy a spark tester they are about $10 hook the tester up, and take a pair of heavy duty jumper cables and and hook them up to the batter hook the ground up to the block and put the hot side directly on the starter. That way you can stand at the back of the engine and can see the spark tester while you jump the solenoid. Repeat the process on all 4 cylinders. The spark should snap fast be a bright blue and jump a 7/16" gap.
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,135
If you jack a jumper wire on the solenoid you can do this checking all from the motor.
Just make a wire with a switch and connect it from the main battery +ve in to the little positive connection on the solenoid, pressing the switch will then activate the starter and allow you to check each plug for spark.
If your battery is weak you wont get a spark as the motor has to be turning over fast to spark
 
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canuckmark

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2012
Messages
98
I have a 1977 Javelin 85hp. Once a hated stepchild but now a beloved member of the family. If you are not familiar with this particular motor, it can be a bear to start when cold. Once warm, will roar at the touch of the key. That problem can seem like no spark but it likely is a more basic issue. If you search around here you'll find lots of info on this no-start issue.

I had the same problem as you - the boat's PO had no issue starting the thing but it was impossible for me. She'd just turn and turn and turn with no kick at all. Then I learned "her temper" as someone else here put it so accurately.

Here's what I've learned after a full season last year of frustrations at the launch:

1. This motor is very easy to flood. I was holding the choke for far too long and soaking the thing to death. My current start procedure is lift start lever to START position (NOT all the way up, see #2), a quick 2 second try with choke (key pressed in), wait, another 2 sec try with choke out, wait, then another with choke in. Usually will sputter and die with that...I'm patient and try again. Sometimes bumping the choke when it goes helps, after 10-20 seconds of running roll the throttle back and allow it to warm up. Do NOT overchoke. Also make sure the choke plates are well aligned and lay good and tight when closed. You need to remove the intake cover plate to see this.

2. START lever position: Start lever all the way up will almost guarantee a flood for me. That always showed up as gas smell and wet plugs. Here's what I did: open the motor and look for the moving plate that connects the two carbs, it has a cam that rests against it. You will see three lines that the cam lines up with through the throttle movement. The cam needs to line up with the middle one that says "START" next to it. I raised the start lever until the cam lined up with this START line, then marked that position on the throttle console (in my case the arm is just about 2/3s up). This has greatly helped with successful starts.

3. Clean plugs are a must.

4. RPM: This engine needs to turn at least 300RPM for the power pack to allow spark. Good solid spin from a good starter/cables/battery combination are essential.

5. Make sure the fuel primer is pumped up well (good n hard). Also I stick with non-ethanol fuel. Up here that is Shell 91.

I originally thought no spark too, so I made a spark tester with an old distributor cap. I made 4 "electrodes" out of 18ga copper wire and attached them inside to each of the 4 terminals, pointing at the center. Then adjusted each to 7/16" from the center, attached a cable and alligator clip on the center terminal to ground to the block, attached the 4 coil wires and let er rip. Worked great just sitting up on top of the motor so I could see from the front. You can also make a similar tester with a wood block and nails, guys here have done it that way too.

Sorry for the long post, but it's been a long journey and I want to give back.
 
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