1979 Johnson 140...getting going again.

[Ranger 330V]

Hey everyone! Newbie to the Johnson/Evinrude realm! Seeking help from the masters! Just purchased a 1979 Johnson 140. I haven't picked it up yet but will friday. Will be replacing 1150 merc on my 330V, I hope. Man said mech told him compression was good but had electrical problems. He couldn't really get into depth because he didn't know anything about engines. Said something about one cylinder firing out of order, I'm thinking maybe losing spark. He said it would idle fine but die whe he put it in gear. I'm wanting to test the electrical system and will be purchasing a manual as soon as I pick up the motor sat and verify by serial number that it is a 79. What types of tools do I need to check powerpacks, coils, timing base, and anything else on the motors ignition that my need checking? I know I read about a type of voltmeter someone was talking about on here that you need but its expensive. What type is this?? What else would you guys do before taking this motor out? Is there a link and sync that needs to be done? What about carb adjustments? I will decarb with deep creep and change impellor and lower unit oil before I go. Thanks for you help and I will keep you guys posted...just want to be ready to get to work when I get it...engines people give up on are so exciting. Thanks again.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1979 Johnson 140...getting going again.

Once you verify the model/year of the engine, contact Ken Cook Co., in Milwaukee, Wi, to get an original manual. They will take your credit card over the phone and send it to you. The sync and link procedure is in there, along with carb adjustments. Some handy tools are the spark checker, which you will see in the manual to test for ignition spark. There are many ohm tests, so a common volt meter will work. A timing light attached to each plug wire will show the quality of spark delivered to each plug-and will help set the timing. The more unusual item is the peak-reading voltmeter. A number of tests require this, along with ohms tests. Sometimes an ohm test alone will not show a part is bad. Those engines will run fine at idle on the hose with one cyl not firing. It's typical to see problems when under load (in gear.)

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1979 Johnson 140...getting going again.

there are 6 pages here, find what you need "http://www.boatpartstore.com/page28.asp"

 

[Ranger 330V]

Re: 1979 Johnson 140...getting going again.

Thank you all for your responses. I'm really anxious to get the engine home. I don't think there will be much wrong....but who knows. That is the tool I was wondering about, I have an FFA parent that his kids show livestock for me and he is an electrician and I can get his klien tool...its really nice. I think I have everything else...I'm going to build a single spark tester as per this site....really nice setup. This is an awsome site and its good to be back over here again. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for the info on the manual, I'll be ordering one as soon as I get the engine sat. Thanks again!

Scott

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1979 Johnson 140...getting going again.

go to the engine faq, awakening a sleeping outboard. have no idea how i forgot that. check your compression before spending any money, be sure you have a good base to work with.

 

[Ranger 330V]

Re: 1979 Johnson 140...getting going again.

Yeah I've read that, its a great article. There are a few other things I think i'll do before cranking it also. It is supposed to have good compression the mech he took it to said it did...but he did'nt give any numbers. I do have a quick question about decarbing. I've done the seafoam 3:1 before, 3 gal of gas 1 can seafoam...what about deep creep?? or putting a can in a spray bottle...I know seafoam is some "hot" stuff and you can really mess up an outboard with it....but before I run this thing on a boat or do another compression test I would like to idle it and decarb it. What is the safest method of this?? I've heard everything from taking out sparkplugs to spraying in carbs...what about spraying in cylinders and letting set for a while (hour) then running for a little while and repeat until the tops of the pistons are clean or the exhaust no longer stinks? I want to make sure its clean and when I get the motor going try to prop the motor and 330V to around 5600rpm. Then maybe I won't have a coking problem, and will just run seafoam and normal intervals per year. What about lubricity of seafoam?? If it cleans carbon so well, will it not also wash the cylinders of any lube if the engine isn't running and you spray it in? Just a bunch of questions...sorry. I love learning about these old beasts...this was in the day when a man was proud of his work and companies didn't cut corners and automatically go for the lowest bidder. Thanks again!

 

[Ranger 330V]

Re: 1979 Johnson 140...getting going again.

found kencook website...thats awsome, thanks for helping. I'll order one sat. Where is a good serial number reference?? Or can I just post it on here?

 

[3car]

Re: 1979 Johnson 140...getting going again.

the model number is on the side of the transom bracket, and on top of the power head(round plate, should start with j140xxxx)