1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

[mbroome]

Bought this boat last year and had a blast last season. All last season the outdrive would "clunk" occasionally and even jump completely out of gear(rarely). Previous owner bought a remaned drive , threw it on the boat and then sold it to me. I've spent a ton this winter fixing everything that i found wrong last season. New starter(gets here tommorow), tuneup w all new parts,new esa module and switch along with new wiring thru-out along with a ton of other fixes. Local dealer here in town said that the "Clunking" could be a bad and/or worn cluytch dog, bad or worn lower shift cable and that they would have to tear the entire thing apart to tell me for sure. They adjusted the upper shift cable (took them two weeks) and returned it to me. Well yesterday in the garage I was messing w it. It would lock into forward, but the boat had no reverse, i mean NONE! I took it out LAST weekend for a test run and had the usual clunking, but had my gears. Yesterday I got motivated (and pissed) and pulled the LOWER unit. There where NO metal shavings in the case. When i shift it into EITHER gear by hand it engages and turns smoothly with NO binding at all! On inspecting the shift cable I found what looked like a mud daubers nest of electrical tape and rtv on the cable very close to the shift box. After removing the "nest" i found the insulation cut with the silver outer casing of the shift cables exposed.
Heres my question:
The lower drive shifts cleanly and smoothly by hand and the drive rotates with no binding.
Can a cut lower shift cable stretch enough to cause incomplete travel on the shift box that moves the pushrod in the lower drive? I was told if I saw silver(cut insulation revealing the outer shell of the cable) to trash the cable without question. Im suspecting binding or stretching in the cable is causing the shift box to lose travel resulting in the drive "shortshifting" itself into gear. Seems it would make sense to me because it will "grind" into gear, "clink" during travel and even "jump" out of gear.

Drive turns smoothly and engages into fwd and reverse cleanly by hand:

Mud Daubers Nesting?

Lower drive removed:

 

[whywhyzed]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

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[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

is it possible that its misadjusted on the shifter assy on the motor? Would that prevent/hinder complete shaft movement? I mean it moves fully and smoothly on the lower drive when done by hand....the pawls on the upper side FIRMLY hold the cable into the housing on the shift assy.

 

[whywhyzed]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

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[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

pawls are tensioning and grabbing correctly. It's always "Thunked" since I bought it a year ago.
I'm gonna start pulling the upper today once the garage warms up a lil bit as well as the cable off of the upper shift assy and pull the entire thing apart. I've needed to replace the "spider" drive gears for a year and have a set in storage. Ive gone this far, might as well go the full distance. Im just puzzled by the fact that I can shift the lower by hand with the pushrod and it smootly engages both ways with no binding. When I drained the lower oil there where NO shavings at all, clean as a whistle. Thats why im leaning towards the stretched, improperly adjusted lower cable.I'm praying its not the lower end dawg and gears, thats $1600.00 remanned. Im gonna do a search for the proper lower cable adjustment here. I have the shop manual but its VERY unclear without the adjustment procedure. would ya happen to have a fast link for the proper installation/adjustment on the cable? I'm gonna throw a new cable at it, get it properly adjusted, if the problem continues ill go for the new lower unit *groan*

 

[whywhyzed]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

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[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

Yea, I wandered out there a bit ago to see if it was warm enuff to work yet. I repositioned the shift box at the end of the cable and got a nice steady stream of water/oil coming out of the box via the cable.....

 

[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

Thought I'd post a few pics of my progress this morning. pulled the lower shift cable and upper drive assy. Ive removed the cable from the upper as well and am waiting on the replacement, (will take about a week to get). Ive got the old boat side drive gear soaking in penetrating oil and am gonna give a try at reoval this evening. Im in a holding pattern at this point for parts! BOO! Oh yea, I aslo cleaned, flushed resealed and reoiled the tilit hammerblow and gears.......damn this is turning into a job!

outdrive removed

Outdrive pulled, VERY worn drive gear plainly seen:

old vs new gear:

Ditto, lil bit clearer!

I'm just praying im on the right track!

 

[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

*bump*

 

[whywhyzed]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

your tra......

 

[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

its trimmed ALL the way up atm, awaiting a new starters arrival monday sometime. Front of the motor is raised WAY up, pushing the back of the motor out............
my rear motor mount bolts WILL need attention at a later time tho. I figure I'll get this problem solved, then tackle a new transom boot (can't ever be too paranoid!) and the mount bolts.........

 

[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

small bit of progress, new starter is in the boat (unrelated to this problem). Cranks like a champ! Still trying to find a big enough socket to remove the nut on the drive gear, it sure isnt 1 1/4! lol! Cable eta: sometime after the first boo! being boatless stinks!

 

[studdy05]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

i've studied the 800 intently having rebuilt mine several times and read just about everything written on the subject and though it's hard to say without seeing it personally, the new cable - when properly put on and adjusted - will more than likely solve your problem. Willing to bet on it.

Since you are in so deep, might want to consider throwing a new impeller on...my two cents...

 

[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

yea, that crossed my mind as well. Im gonna pick one up monday since I need something to do! (still waiting on the cable to get here).
placing this here for reference:
does this sound correctly for installing and adjusting the new cable?

Shift Housing Disassembly and Assembly
1. Remove shift housing cover screws and lockwashers. lift off the cover and discard the gasket. See Figure 7-1-46.

3. With Special Tool Part No. 909881. pull out the pinion shaft seals, bearing, and washer by threading the tool onto the end of the shaft. See Figure 7-1-48. Discard the pinion shaft umbrella seal. O-ring. and plastic washer.

6. Remove two cable retainer screws and discard. Note the position of the retainer tab. then pullout shift cable. See Figure 7-1-46.
7. Clean sealer off housing with solvent.
Inspection Procedure
Clean all parts (except cable) in solvent and dry thoroughly.
1. Inspect shift housing and cover for cracks, nicks or burrs, especially on gasket faces.
2. Inspect the bearings for corrosion or damage. Replace as required.
3. Inspect shift cable for cracks and frayed or kinked core wires. Shift cable core wires damaged by fraying or severe kinking must be replaced. Continued use of shift cable with damaged core wires may result in core wire breakage, causing operator to lose control of boat.
4. Inspect the pinion shaft rack teeth and splines forchips. burrs or corrosion that would prevent proper engagement.

Change Hydromechanical Cap for use in Full Mechanical installation.
On the underside of the cap are two tabs that extend down. The tabs should be cut flush with the bottom of the cap to allow installation and avoid interference with shifting.

All of the parts in this assembly are vital operating parts and must be properly installed and secured.
If part replacement is necessary use only OMC parts spe?cifically designed for this application.
Improper assembly sequence, failure to use all parts and/or substitution of parts designated for this assembly may cause shift malfunction or loss of start in gear protection and may cause operator to lose control of boat.
1. Lubricate retainer with soapy water and place the retainer on the new shift cable: When properly attached. index rib of cable will be at open end of retainer slot.
2. Insure that cables are parallel and insert into shift housing. Cable retainer tab must be positioned as shown in Figure 7-1-46.
3. Feed small puck and cable into idler pulley chamber. See Figure 7-1-49.
4. Feed other cable into drive pulley chamber.
5. Install retainer and new lock patch screws. See Figure 7-1-46. Tighten screws to a torque of 5-7 ft. Ibs. (7-9 N.m).
6. Grease the idler pulley bearing with OMC Extreme Pressure Grease or equivalent. Place a new quad-ring on the idler pulley shaft, and lubricate with gearcase oil. Install the pin, washer, pulley, and washer in that order. See Figure 7-1-50. Push shaft thru pulley into the housing., spin pulley and see if it turns freely, then seat the shaft with a hammer. Do not drive pin removal groove below housing surface.

10. With the drive pulley grooved surface facing the rack support. insert the cable pucks into the pulley.
11. With the cables attached, give the pulley a 1800 twist clockwise. Pull the cable ends and bring the pulley down into the housing See Figure 7-1-51
After installation make sure the umbrella seal lips are not folded under. See Figure 7-1-52.
16. Install a new O-ring on the retainer. Coat O-ring with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Push retainer into shift housing until it seats. See Figure 7-1-52.
Next, attach a gearcase vacuum tester to the hose. Pull vacuum to 3-5 Inches of mercury for 5 minutes. No loss of vacuum should be realized.

Installation of Shift Housing Assembly
1. Coat both sides of a new shift housing gasket with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound and place it on the gearcase.
2. Before installing the shift housing and cable assembly, pull the long cable out as far as it will go. The short cable should be completely seated, and should measure approxi?mately 4-7/8" to center of puck. See dimension "A" in
3. With long cable fully extended, position shift housing over the shift rod and engage rack with pinion in shift hbusing by pulling on short cable while maintaining tension on long cable.

? whle rotating drive,shaft by hand, shift the unit into forward gear by pulling on the short cable Measure "A" dimension to center of puck.
? Shift into reverse gear (long cable) and remeasure "A" on short cable to center of puck.
? The mean distance ("A1"+ "A2")/2 must fall within 7-5/32 to 7-29/32" (18.2 to 20.08cm). If this dimension is not met, disassemble and repeat step 2, changing slightly the 4-7/8" starting dimensions.
Continued assembly of shift cable that does not meet the 7-5/32 to 7-29/32" (18.2 to 20.08cm) dimension may lead to shift stroke restriction at the shift converter housing ard prevent full engagement of the clutch dog. This can result in ratcheting that can damage shift system components.

 

[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

cable will be here today! It's sad how much a cable coming in the mail excites me . Now I get to throw this entire thing back together! ROFL. Ill post pics of the reassembly. Hopefully if all goes smoothly I will be back in the water this weekend!!

 

[mbroome]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

Boat is back together! I jsut wanted to thank everyone that gave me advice! I have yet to throw it in the water becasue I blew my new esa module when I was stupidly pulling my light pole with the battery on, which also took out two fuses *grumble(. Ah well, it's only hundred dolar bills, right? LOl! On with the finished product!

Not only does it look good, but it shifts smooth as silk, even without the ESA! Off I go to buy an esa! *sigh* I appreciate the help guys! Feel free to comment or criticize!


Matt
Jackson, MS
http://www.flagislandms.com

 

[whywhyzed]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

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[KaGee]

Re: 1979 wellcraft with a full mechanical shift 800 Stringer, HELP!

I prefer white... the mark of distinction!

Well done. Enjoy!