1981 15hp Evinrude hard to start--need advice

[biologicole]

I'd like to ask for some help in addressing the problem of a hard-to-start 1981 15hp Evinrude E15RCIS. It takes 4-10 pulls to get it to start and then usually dies in about 1-3 seconds. After another 4-10 pulls it usually starts up and runs fine. In the past year I've replaced the water pump/impeller, thermostat, water jacket gasket, fuel pump, re-built the carburetor, new plugs, new vented fuel cap, new primer bulb and maybe a couple other things I can't remember right now. The compression is 80-85 on both cylinders. I have re-adjusted the idle speed screw on the carburetor so that it's maybe one-half turn out. I've also re-set the lean/rich mixture by screwing it in and back out about a turn and a half. Once the motor is running it runs well except it does die out at the very lowest speed idle even though I have the slow speed idle knob (which has also been replaced) dialed in to the highest adjustment. I see it doesn't have points but I'm wondering about the power pack and if it needs replaced also.

My normal starting procedure is to attach the fuel line and squeeze the primer bulb until it gets hard and then pull out the choke and start pulling on the starting rope (Oh yeah, I broke the rope and replaced it, too). The normal starting routine then goes about as I described earlier with 4-10 pulls, die and then 4-10 more pulls.

Can anyone tell me how I might go about getting the engine to start easier? Is there something else I need to check and/or replace? Is the carburetor idle screw adjusted correctly? Is my starting procedure OK or should I be doing something different? Could the problem be in the power pack?

As you can probably tell I'm able to perform mechanical work on small engines but I'm not at all familiar with 2 stroke outboard engines.

Any tips, hints, suggestions or anything else would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[hardwater fisherman]

Does the choke work as it should? Does it close fully and stay closed? When in neutral turn the throttle until it hits the stop and then pull the rope while holding the throttle. If the slow speed needle is turned out 1 and 1/2 turns then it should start. And work the needle in from there. These are just some things I have learned. But I am sure others can help also. EDIT If I understand what your saying about the slow speed knob correctly. After the needle is set you then attach the adjustment knob. That way you have more room to turn it either way.

 

[Silvertip]

An engine that dies immediately after starting is not getting enough or too much choke. Experiment with choke setting. If the engine hasn't been run (say for a week or more) pull the choke all the way out. The minute the engine fires, push the choke part way in and leave the throttle advanced a bit until it warms up. Then push the choke all the way in. If you don't push the choke in after starting the engine dies because it is now running too rich. But just because you did the fuel system stuff doesn't mean the electrical side is functioning normally. Are you using the "correct" plugs. Just because they are the same as those you removed does not mean they are correct. Is the spark good and crisp and does it jump a gap at least twice wider than the spark plug gap. Is the engine running on "both" cylinders when it does run? You would be amazed at how many folks cannot tell this. On a cold start have you tried spraying a fuel/oil mix directly into the carb using a squirt bottle. If this works, you still have a fuel problem likely related to a directly low speed carb circuit or the choke is not closing fully or not at all. If it makes no difference, the go back to the electrical side of things.

 

[racerone]

Ignore " start " on the handle.---Turn it till you hit the idle stop.---And make sure choke actually closes.---Often folks put the choke lever back in upside down.

 

[raczekp1]

compression is very low.
i would do rebore with oversize pistons

 

[ondarvr]

compression is very low.
i would do rebore with oversize pistons

The compression may or may not be low, techniques and gauges can make the number vary a great deal, but, low compression can cause hard starting and a poor idle.

 

[racerone]

Test the ignition parts !-----If spark jumps a gap of 3/8" or more then there is no reason to suspect ignition parts are bad.

 

[oldboat1]

Measure spark with a tester, plugs removed.

My '83 and '85 9.9s have compression in the 120s. I would check it again, maybe with a different gauge. Remove plugs. Crank until the needle on the tester stops moving.

You have an air/fuel mix adjustment on the carb (initially set at 1 1/2 open, like you say). You also have a throttle stop on the lower pan -- different function. I would leave the throttle stop out of the mix until the motor is running well (use the twist grip to control throttle).

 

[flyingscott]

My 79 15 hp has compression in the 90s and runs just fine. The knob on the side of the pan is the idle speed adjustment they seldom work correctly. I have seen far more 15s with compression #s in the 80s and 90s that run just fine. I have only seen a few with higher #s

 

[oldboat1]

took a look at your prior thread -- covers most of the same issues, and similar responses. As the original issue was an overheating episode, you might go back to that issue.

I see in the current thread you replaced the t.stat cover gasket. Did you replace the head gasket at some point? There was some discussion in the earlier thread about R & R of the t.stat cover and the head cover, also mention of resurfacing. If there is some warpage, the head cover will not seat properly -- could be a factor in your continued running issues.

 

[roscoe]

I have re-adjusted the idle speed screw on the carburetor so that it's maybe one-half turn out.

Any tips, hints, suggestions or anything else would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

1/2 turn is not enough, at least not on mine.

manual says 1 turn out

Not surprised it dies at idle.

 

[biologicole]

The choke is in correctly and I'm using the correct spark plugs and gaps. I should re-check the jump from the plugs to see if they're throwing a good spark. I'll also check to make sure the choke closes with the throttle idled all the way down, I hadn't thought of that. I haven't checked the head to see if it's warped and needs resurfacing, I'm trying the smaller more obvious things before I dig into it that deep.

The motor was new to me about four years ago and I'm trying to play catch up on the maintenance to keep it running good. I really hope I didn't get it hot and burn the rings out. Boring out the cylinders and replacing everything is a bigger, more expensive job than I want with this motor.

One last question-- what does the power pack do and would a bad power pack contribute to a hard start?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[oldboat1]

If you replaced the t.stat cover without removing the head cover, you did it the hard way on that motor. I would take off the head cover and replace the gasket -- think about removing the t.stat cover again or at least retorque it on the work bench (t.stat cover comes off with the head cover). To remove the head cover, leave the two bottom bolts loose but in place and lift the cover up -- reverse when reattaching. Use a new head gasket, and resurface the mating surface of the head cover -- 400 grit wet/dry paper on a hard surface, moving the head cover around in a figure 8 motion until all surfaces are equally shiny.

Get a service manual for that motor.** I think you may not have a handle on adjusting the carb, and doing the link and sync -- and have no way of knowing whether the carb was thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt. I don't know what you are doing here, for example:

" I have re-adjusted the idle speed screw on the carburetor so that it's maybe one-half turn out. I've also re-set the lean/rich mixture by screwing it in and back out about a turn and a half. Once the motor is running it runs well except it does die out at the very lowest speed idle even though I have the slow speed idle knob (which has also been replaced) dialed in to the highest adjustment."

To test spark, you need a $10 adjustable tester from an auto parts store. Plugs are removed -- testing ignition output. Do that before replacing ignition parts.

[**Edit. Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/REAL-OEM-FA...ash=item1eaebea34a:g:AZUAAOSw5L9XDw94&vxp=mtr ]

 

[biologicole]

In looking at some things I realize have mis-identied a part and what I have done. I haven't touched the slow speed needle valve or messed with the carburetor since it was rebuilt by an outboard motor mechanic. What I have done is to screw in the cam roller adjustment all the way. Would that effect the starting and slow idle? Can someone suggest an approximate setting for the cam roller?

I just ordered a service manual. I'm still new at outboard motor mechanicing and trying to learn from the forums. Please bear with me.

Thanks

 

[hardwater fisherman]

I think there should be a mark or marks on the cam. And the roller should start to make contact on the mark and start to move the throttle plate.

 

[tomhath]

Are you using fresh fuel? If it's been sitting around for a few months (especially if it has ethanol) it will get harder and harder to start. Try a fresh mix that has been carefully measured with the correct amount of oil.

 

[racerone]

The powerpack is an electronic switching device.------Test the ignition as already suggested !!--------Question for you---Do you go around replacing lightbulbs before they pop ??

 

[biologicole]

The spark looks good. I got my manual in the mail this weekend and I'm going to re-set the cam roller adjustment this week. Hopefully, that will solve my hard starting problem.

Thanks for all the tips and advice.

 

[thatone123]

90 psi is fine for this motor...The 9.5's in the generation before that would run with really low compression, as low as 60 and be fine. If one is 120, it must be new old stock. Many times problems like this are carb related and sometimes cannot be fixed or cleaned. If you try a different carb, you may be pleasantly surprised at the result. Or fine a parts motor and you can replace the whole cdi and coils in one fell swoop and usually the problem vanishes. I did this just a few weeks ago on one and it runs like new. I have worked on more than dozens of these engines. One of the best!

 

[biologicole]

I think I have everything set right. When it?s cold the engine starts on the second pull and will idle fine at low speed. After running for ten minutes and getting warm it won?t idle at low speed and takes about 8 pulls to start. It?s a challenge for sure.