1982 Johnson 50Hp won’t start

saltchuckmatt

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Alrighty, I’ll check it tomorrow and get back to you. I do appreciate the help!
Well, its running anyways.

After you replaced the reed valves did you backfire it more? Was that through the carbs?
If so wondering what they look like now.
 

Ryansmith1

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Sep 2, 2022
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Alright so I went ahead and got a new power pack. Slapped it on and the exact same thing. No spark too cylinder and bottom cylinder had strong spark/ will run the motor alone with lots of gas at start up. Swapping the ignition coils didn’t change= only bottom cylinder spark with both coil packs.

I’m going to go out on a limb here and guess maybe it’s something to do with the stator because everything else seems to be working.
 

saltchuckmatt

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Alright so I went ahead and got a new power pack. Slapped it on and the exact same thing. No spark too cylinder and bottom cylinder had strong spark/ will run the motor alone with lots of gas at start up. Swapping the ignition coils didn’t change= only bottom cylinder spark with both coil packs.

I’m going to go out on a limb here and guess maybe it’s something to do with the stator because everything else seems to be working.
Did you save the old stator because maybe nothing is wrong with it?
 

racerone

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The stator has one charge coil.----Used to fire top and bottom cylinder.-----Stator has one sensor coil.----Used to fire the top and bottom cylinder.----More trouble shooting is required.----Look for a broken wire / bad plug in somewhere.
 

Ryansmith1

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Did you save the old stator because maybe nothing is wrong with it?
I do have the old stator and I’m probably going to throw it on. I watched some videos and tested the black wire- brown whire for ohms and I’m getting noting on the new stator I have on there. The old stator has 250ish. My understanding is the new stator is bad.FDCE285C-F90D-47D1-A361-5254BA7CD87F.jpeg
 

saltchuckmatt

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I do have the old stator and I’m probably going to throw it on. I watched some videos and tested the black wire- brown whire for ohms and I’m getting noting on the new stator I have on there. The old stator has 250ish. My understanding is the new stator is bad.View attachment 369748
Not sure what to say....motor shouldn't have ran at all according to others. I say put the old one on and look for bad wires while doing so.
 

saltchuckmatt

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I do have the old stator and I’m probably going to throw it on. I watched some videos and tested the black wire- brown whire for ohms and I’m getting noting on the new stator I have on there. The old stator has 250ish. My understanding is the new stator is bad.View attachment 369748
Better make sure all of the wires from the stator are in there correct spots.
 

Ryansmith1

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Better make sure all of the wires from the stator are in there correct spots.
All the wires are in the correct spot. I took it off and no breaks in the wires anywhere. Only thing I see is the plastic on this coil is dark like it got hot and none of the other coils are like that. Also this one is square, is that the trigger coil?

I however find that the connect to ground inside the rubber boot from the stator didn’t always read on the voltmeter so there was probably a short in it. I pulled the wire out and it was not crimped right from factory I think. Which I would guess might have fried that coil. When I was messing with it there was a few times the top cylinder had spark for a few turn overs even after I fixed the ground wire but I think it was too late.

When the stator warms up after a few rotations I think the heat might build up too fast because of the damage which causes the top cylinder to go all the way out.

What do you think?
 

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saltchuckmatt

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All the wires are in the correct spot. I took it off and no breaks in the wires anywhere. Only thing I see is the plastic on this coil is dark like it got hot and none of the other coils are like that. Also this one is square, is that the trigger coil?

I however find that the connect to ground inside the rubber boot from the stator didn’t always read on the voltmeter so there was probably a short in it. I pulled the wire out and it was not crimped right from factory I think. Which I would guess might have fried that coil. When I was messing with it there was a few times the top cylinder had spark for a few turn overs even after I fixed the ground wire but I think it was too late.

When the stator warms up after a few rotations I think the heat might build up too fast because of the damage which causes the top cylinder to go all the way out.

What do you think?
I have no idea really. Did you try your old one yet?
 

Ryansmith1

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Ok, changed out the stator, still no spark in top cylinder. I swapped out the coil pack and top now has great spark…….. finally…… I guess the coil pack was messed up. That being said she is running really rough. I tried adjusting the idle screw as well as throttle linkage on carbs to get it going.

When I get it idling pretty well then put it in gear it shifts well, but when I give it some gas it takes a long time to build up RPM. Then once I back off the throttle and put it in neutral the RPMS stay really high and don’t come back down on its own. I took a video of it and I’ll post it here. The throttle control/spark advance on the motor are going back to the idle position ,but it takes a long time to come down off of high RPMs

Also when I was done trying to fix it for the day I pulled the fuel line off and as it was running out of fuel it started running way better and the RPMs went up on its own till it ran out of fuel.

Seems like maybe it’s getting bogged down by the carbs. I have taken them apart twice after I fully rebuilt them the first time with new jets and gaskets/ floats. Double checked everything and made sure the floats are adjusted to the specs johnson says.

Based on the video do you have any advice?
 

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saltchuckmatt

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Ok, changed out the stator, still no spark in top cylinder. I swapped out the coil pack and top now has great spark…….. finally…… I guess the coil pack was messed up. That being said she is running really rough. I tried adjusting the idle screw as well as throttle linkage on carbs to get it going.

When I get it idling pretty well then put it in gear it shifts well, but when I give it some gas it takes a long time to build up RPM. Then once I back off the throttle and put it in neutral the RPMS stay really high and don’t come back down on its own. I took a video of it and I’ll post it here. The throttle control/spark advance on the motor are going back to the idle position ,but it takes a long time to come down off of high RPMs

Also when I was done trying to fix it for the day I pulled the fuel line off and as it was running out of fuel it started running way better and the RPMs went up on its own till it ran out of fuel.

Seems like maybe it’s getting bogged down by the carbs. I have taken them apart twice after I fully rebuilt them the first time with new jets and gaskets/ floats. Double checked everything and made sure the floats are adjusted to the specs johnson says.

Based on the video do you have any advice?
You have something wrong.....and that tach can't be right. 3000 plus rpm's?
 

racerone

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Sounds like it is running on 1 cylinder.-------What kind / brand of plug wires are installed ?----Wire core ?-----Is the high speed jet in the float bowl clean?----Did you have the jets ( orifice plug ) out to clean them ?
 
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Ryansmith1

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Yea so the top cylinder has not be sparking. I replaced pretty much everything. Wire and pack are CDI. New stator, new power pack, new ignition coils
Sounds like it is running on 1 cylinder.-------What kind / brand of plug wires are installed ?----Wire core ?-----Is the high speed jet in the float bowl clean?----Did you have the jets ( orifice plug ) out to clean them ?
Yea so the top cylinder has not be sparking. I replaced pretty much everything. Wire and pack are CDI. New stator, new power pack, new ignition coils. Took the carbs completely apart and cleaned/ rebuilt them then took them apart 2 more times to check everything and it looks good. Stator works, power pack works and I changed top coil for a new one and it sparked at first but seems to have stoped sparking shortly after.

At this point I’m thinking maybe there is a short in the remote control cables between the motor and the controls somewhere. Also. Cleaned and checked grounding wires/ points if contact for everything.
 

saltchuckmatt

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Yea so the top cylinder has not be sparking. I replaced pretty much everything. Wire and pack are CDI. New stator, new power pack, new ignition coils

Yea so the top cylinder has not be sparking. I replaced pretty much everything. Wire and pack are CDI. New stator, new power pack, new ignition coils. Took the carbs completely apart and cleaned/ rebuilt them then took them apart 2 more times to check everything and it looks good. Stator works, power pack works and I changed top coil for a new one and it sparked at first but seems to have stoped sparking shortly after.

At this point I’m thinking maybe there is a short in the remote control cables between the motor and the controls somewhere. Also. Cleaned and checked grounding wires/ points if contact for everything.
You can isolate the control box by disconnecting the the big red plug at the motor and manually jump the soloniod. If it runs good that way then you know it's something in the harness or box.

You will need some way to shut it off.
 
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