1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

[Asnyder]

Just curios how much play a prop should have while in gear. If I put my motor in forward or reverse I can move the prop approx 3" or so. (like from the 1 oclock to 3 oclock)
Is this pretty normal or should it be pretty tight? Thanks

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

That's the normal play..... distance between the clutch dog lobes and gear shift engagement lobes.

 

[Asnyder]

Re: 1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

Thanks. Now for question number 2.
When I move the throttle (on the motor) WITHOUT the cable hooked up. The outside part moves real nice but the inside part of the linkage is stiff. (inside part being the arm that advances the timing) When releasing from WOT, the throttle will NOT return to totally closed due to hitting the advancement arm. I have to close it manually. Should the throttle return all the way by itself or is it normal to have to push it closed?

 

[Asnyder]

Re: 1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

Arrow points to the stiff part. It's not REAL stiff. Just enough that the throttle won't move it.


I just realized that the advancement arm is spring loaded forward while the throttle arm is spring loaded rearward. So I need to revise my question. Should the advancement spring be stronger than throttle spring?
It just seems like it should totally close when I release it.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: 1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

Remove flywheel and stator, lubricate the trigger 'bearing'.

 

[Asnyder]

Re: 1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

Can I just blast some WD40 up in there or won't it get to that bearing. Taking the flywheel off sounds a bit tricky to me or isn't it a big deal?

 

[Haffiman]

Re: 1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

WD 40 may be great for loosening screws etc, but is not a permanent lubricant. You may be able to loosen it up, but as soon as the engine gets heated up, the lubricants are gone. WD40 is close to 99% solvents that will quickly evaporate. With a decent flywheel puller, not that big a deal.

 

[boobie]

Re: 1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

The timer base has to be removed, cleaned up and lubed.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

Follow Haffiman's advice. The original white lithium grease eventually dries out under the timer base, making it move stiffly. Common on engines with some age. You'll need to remove the flywheel, clean the groove of the old grease and relube it. Aerosol carb cleaner or brake cleaner will work.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1983 115 V4 "prop slop"

NOTE: After cleaning the timer base and the related engine top bearing housing surface area.... Grease ONLY the brass bearing area of the timer base and the surface of the top bearing housing upon which it rotates.

DO NOT grease the nylon bearing as this collects dirt and dirt results in binding. Use only oil on that nylon bearing.