1983 Evinrude 150hp won't start

[DJB19]

I have an 1983 Evinrude 150, model J150TLCTE. Which got water inside the fuel tank this past July. I have posted earlier that I was having trouble finding parts. It turned to be the cause of my ignorance of boat motors. And thanks to this forum, I was pointed to the correct model and such. Left my EGO in the year 1980. Joke...

The past few weekends, I have replaced fuel, fuel line, hoses, inline filter, bulb, both(hose/motor) fuel connectors, rebuilt both fuel pumps, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, starter, solenoid.

Then drained the Carburetors thru bottom screws and tilting the motor forward. Sprayed air thru every open hole, in and around the carburetors. Pumped the bulb until gas trickled from open Carbs screw holes. Reassembled everything.

All this leading up to.... The engine won't start. It will just crank until the battery dies. Four times...

A few times, during the attempts of starting, I sprayed carb cleaner into the front of the carburetors. The next turn of the key the motor fires for a split second as if it was going to start. Also back spits what I am assuming is the carb cleaner. BUT nothing. Does not start.

I'm mechanical but don't know enough about boat engines(or any engines) to do the diagnosing. I am simply problem solving. Expensive problem solving.

I'm waiting on the ordered carburetor assembly kit w/ float. But hoping you guys(the much more educated folks than me) will give more ideas before I start tearing into the carbs.

I have an short video, via my phone, I can email if you need to hear the engine cranking. But it just sounds like it is not getting any gas. Cranking and cranking...

What do I do now. I miss fishing..............

Thank you for reading and Thank you in advance with any replies and advice.

David

 

[oldboat1]

The standard fix is to remove and clean or clean/rebuild the carbs. I recommend soaking tops and bottoms in solvent (I like to use lacquer thinner), then use soft wire to clean all orifices. Finish by blowing out all openings with carb spray. I leave the jets in place rather than risk damaging them in removal (remove the screw plugs prior to soaking). Do one carb at a time so you have an assembled carb for comparison.

[BUT -- You could try mixing a gallon of fuel with a heavy dose of dri-gas and see if you can get it running. If so, let it run to clean it out.]

 

[racerone]

Does spark jump a gap of 7//16" on all leads , yes or no ?----All that cranking may have damaged the starter.----Take it apart for inspection / cleaning / ohm check / new brushes..

 

[DJB19]

Dri-gas? Interesting. I might give that a try before getting punched in the nose by the carburetors.

Spark plugs are surface gap.

 

[racerone]

Are you pushing the key in while cranking it over ?------The sparkplugs are NOT USED in doing a maximum ignition voltage test.-----Does spark jump a gap of 7/16" on a simple test device , even a homemade test device ?

 

[DJB19]

Yes, pushing the key while cranking. Going to the auto store to pick up a spark plug tester, today.

Used my brother's spark plug tester a month ago. All 6 plugs had spark. But I will double check his work.

Thanks

 

[racerone]

Checked the flywheel key ?

 

[DJB19]

yes

 

[racerone]

Is the electric primer working.-----The motor should start on the fuel supplied by the electric primer.----This fuel bypasses the carburetor metering circuits.-----Carburetors have little to do with the firing up of the motor.-----My bet is weak / no spark or the electric primer is not opening when you push the key in.-----That is the diagnosis from 10,000 miles or 1 mile away.

 

[DJB19]

Never checked that. I will do so after work today.

Thanks racerone. Any secrets when testing?