1983aq125 won't start

Willaq125

Recruit
Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Messages
3
How are you I have a quick question. I have a 1983 Volvo penta aq125 I replaced fuel pump rebuild the carb installed a new distributor and even changed the battery and it still won't start and it does is crank and crank had a little smoke come out the exhaust and that was it can you please help!!!!
 

wrench 3

Commander
Joined
Aug 12, 2012
Messages
2,108
You need to go back to the basics.
Check for a good spark at at least twos park plugs. It should jump a 1/4" gap.
If that's good, check the static ignition timing.
If that's OK, open the throttle and pour a "little" gas down the carb. Be careful not to spill and if you do spill, clean it up before you try to start it.
If it still won't at least fire up and die. Check the compression.
 

dennis461

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 11, 2011
Messages
516
How about giving us some history? Was it running great one day, and dead the next? Did you buy it not running? How did you see anything coming out of the exhaust, is the boat on dry land? Is there gas in the tank?
 

no704

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
199
Timing belt may have jumped a tooth or two. Check your compression.
 

Webshotsuser

Recruit
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Messages
3
I have done almost everything mentioned in this post, however, you or I had to get away from it, just to clear my head, same issue, cranks but won't start. It's a 2004 Crownline Volvo Penta 5.7 Ltr GX-E spent 7 days straight. Found many problems like oil filter clogged, brown foam, had to purge entire oil system, could have been that flapper in the exhaust manifold, also as it was "Winterized" by the experts, when I asked where the scope of work and what did you do they didn't tell me it was just a bag of parts left in a baggie full of water. So I checked everything all their connections the cable found a sensor that had a burn or overheated connector on the right rear lower section of the engine. Also found that somehow all the power steering fluid was gone and bone dry. So needless to say the vendor who sold us the boat for 53k hey given us a prior quote of $10,000 to pull it out of their storage where they had let the battery drain down left the covers off for almost a year like many in the state of Texas not many boters were able to get out on the water due to the floods last year 2015.

So, a lot of these engines sat for a long time, I even rebuild the EFI located on top of the motor and everything else on the boat including the control panel for shore power, water pumps, etc, inside the boat works great.

But now that I've gotten away from it for a few days thinking to myself it was a fuel system issue, because when I first put it in the water I got the scream of the fuel pump, within about two minutes of running and then it sat being worked on for the next seven days.

This similarities of the motor not running and also the generator 5KW not starting as well, take me away from the fuel delivery system and is now leaning towards the automatic shutdown or safety that's tied to the lanyard that dangles beneath the throttle .

So not only was I told that all the fuel injectors had to be removed, cleaned and recalibrated, I already changed the oil, the anti-siphon valve, change the fuel pump regulator, check fuel pressures with manifold gauges and completely rebuilt the entire low and high fuel pump system, check pressures with manifold gauges, etc.

Actually remove both filters or pumps excuse me put them up to a 12 V external supply and ran them in a deep tub of seafoam and it was pumping as fast as it could.

There's a post on here that was very helpful describing the paint issues are the clog in the filter screens etc. however since both motors won't start like I mentioned above, my next step is to Troubleshoot the automatic kill switch from where it starts underneath the throttle, then heads into the backside of the main control panel on your dashboard where all the FLS and switches are for your lights, etc. and troubleshoot the automatic kill switch, from where it starts underneath the throttle, heads into the backside of the main control panel on your dashboard, where I remember, on a few occasions, where the door was sliding into the wires behind the console, as if they got crushed as a result of either poor design or somehow the bundles behind their became loose.??

So, that's my next step, is to check behind the console find out where that kill switch goes including the automatic fire suppression system where there might be some loose wires or broken wires, because, on the motor generator there's a solenoid in line with the fuel system and this generator only has 95 hours on it, anyways there's no power going to the solenoid when attempting to start the engine generator.

With all that said, I'm beginning to believe it's tied to the life safety loop that goes from the lanyard to the safety related fire, which is behind the console, down to the generator, down to the engine, and it could be as simple as that.
 

Kbakes81

Cadet
Joined
Jul 12, 2016
Messages
7
Good luck with your search. If you don't find an issue with your wiring try checking your ign. Coil.
I just had to replace mine last week. It was a quick inexpensive fix.
 
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