1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

[jefilly]

Good afternoon,

Last year was my first year with a boat, this motor was running perfect and i was very happy with it.

I unfortunately did not winterize it.

When trying to Start it it is very very hard to pull over, definitely does not pull like it did last year, i managed to get it going 3 times while working on it for about 4 hours, all 3 times the choke was on, after shutting it off it after 10 minutes it would not start afterwards. When running White smoke would come out of the Prop area.

While working on it i replaced the plugs, cleaned the carb and none of these really seemed to help.

Tonight i finally did a compression test:

I pulled out both plugs screwed in compression test in #1 and pulled about 5-6 while #2 was completely out, the test read about 65 PSI, in #1 i repeated this the other way around and once again got about 65 PSI.

So heres my question, Im wondering if this is the right was to perform a compression test? because 65-65 seems very low.
If i did correctly perform this test could 65-65 compression be the reason it is hard to pull and start? and what could cause me to lose compression during winter? I'm assuming water inside?

Any help is very much appreciated.

Thank you in advance,
Jean

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

A top rating of 65 psi compression on a 1985 20hp model is not good. I suggest that you remove the cylinder head so as to inspect the head gasket, the sealing surfaces of the head and block, and the condition of the pistons and cylinder walls.

 

[dkonrai]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

i have a 82, 25 hp. before the head gasket, 65/70
after a new head 130/130. i also replaced the 3 flow restricters on the block as well. they are little rubber things that need to be replaced for proper cooling.
dino

 

[jefilly]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

Thank you very Much Joe, looks Like ill be starting this project monday after Work and Will let post how everything turns Out.

Jean

 

[jefilly]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

Thanks Dino, i was wondering if you could please point Out what part number the flow restrictors are on this chart?! The link is of my exact motor.

It would be greatly appreciated!

Jean

www.*****************/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php? year=1985&hp=20&model=J20CRCOS
Edit: the link does not seem to be working...1985 Johnson 20 hp
J20CRCOS...it is on marine engine's website!

 

[dkonrai]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

Thanks Dino, i was wondering if you could please point Out what part number the flow restrictors are on this chart?! The link is of my exact motor.

It would be greatly appreciated!


www.*****************/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php? year=1985&hp=20&model=J20CRCOS
Edit: the link does not seem to be working...1985 Johnson 20 hp
J20CRCOS...it is on marine engine's website!

Jean

#10 — 325911 — DEFLECTOR, WATER PASSAGE (3 required per assembly)

if you google the part list, this is the part number. i also changed the tstat and flushed the cooling system. i bought a used head to replace the original as the water cover bolts had all snapped off.

 

[dkonrai]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

Thanks Dino, i was wondering if you could please point Out what part number the flow restrictors are on this chart?! The link is of my exact motor.

It would be greatly appreciated!


www.*****************/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php? year=1985&hp=20&model=J20CRCOS
Edit: the link does not seem to be working...1985 Johnson 20 hp
J20CRCOS...it is on marine engine's website!

Jean

#10 ? 325911 ? DEFLECTOR, WATER PASSAGE (3 required per assembly)

if you google the part list, this is the part number. i also changed the tstat and flushed the cooling system. i bought a used head to replace the original as the water cover bolts had all snapped off.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

 

[dkonrai]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

joe,
thanks for the tip on using 3/8 hose. stupid me... yeah i thought 6 bucks each was rather expensive from the dealer. the worst was i had to shave the lower one a bit as the replacement was like solid rubber. not flexible like the original with a large hole. darn i think the hose would have fit better.
dino

 

[jefilly]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

A top rating of 65 psi compression on a 1985 20hp model is not good. I suggest that you remove the cylinder head so as to inspect the head gasket, the sealing surfaces of the head and block, and the condition of the pistons and cylinder walls.

i have a 82, 25 hp. before the head gasket, 65/70
after a new head 130/130. i also replaced the 3 flow restricters on the block as well. they are little rubber things that need to be replaced for proper cooling.
dino

Good morning guys,

alright so last night i took apart the cylinder Head but i was not too sure what too look for so i snapped a couple pictures. I know they look quite dirty / gunked up but i didn't see any rust / corrosion.





Hoping you guys can once again help me, your help is very much appreciated!!!

Thx,
Jean

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

It's hard to say if the head gasket was sealing properly or not. However, normally the sealing surface between the head gasket and the block looks all the same... your block does not. Also, on that model engine, there is no water passageway directly between the two cylinders, meaning that if a head gasket was somewhat faulty in that area, compression and cumbustion from one cylinder could be passed to the other cylinder. Possibly, for some reason, the head bolts were not torqued down properly.

I couldn't see into the cylinders themselves to check for scoring, grooves, etc... you'll need to be the judge of that.

If no scoring, grooves, etc, I would carefully clean all surfaces thoroughly, install a new head gasket, then torque the head bolts to their factory specifications in the following sequence whereas each number is a head bolt. You'll need to look up the torque specs... I don't have that book handy.

9....10
5.....6
1.....2
4.....3
8.....7

 

[jefilly]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

Thanks Joe, i have the gasket and Will be Doing it tomorow after Work but first i have 1 more question, im wondering if i Should be putting Anything else other then the gasket such as vaseline or Any sealant?!

Thx alot for everything!

Jean

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

Newer gasket have a shiny substance coating them (sealer). It seals via the engine heat.

Older gaskets do not have that shiny substance... just coat the gasket lightly with oil, no sealer.

Be sure to have the torque specs and use the tightening sequence I stated.

 

[jefilly]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

hi there, alright so I've installed the new gasket and it is still tough but seems to fire almost every time and it does run!!! i went to the Shop by my house and they advised me 18 ft pounds for the head bolts. Anything Else that could make this motor hard to pull that anyone could think of? she pulled easy before winter!

Also It seems to be running rough and have no water spitting out so i'm thinking id also like to change the impeller, i've bought the new part and have the bottom end off except i didn't notice which way the impeller goes on before i took it off out of the housing, it has a little black plastic piece that came with it that goes in it so that the impeller catches the squared off part of the shaft and spins with the shaft, i'm assuming the shaft should spinClockwise while installing this piece into the housing?

The motor is a CJ20CRCOS

Any help is very much appreciated!!

Joe if you were in manitoba Id owe you a bottle already!!!!!

Thanks alot ,

Jean

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

My 1985 Johnson 25 had some corrosion in the rewind starter spindle and was very hard to pull plus slow to retract. Disassembly, cleaning and lubrication made it function normally. They are easy to remove and test without engaging the motor. Good luck!

 

[jefilly]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

Well im happy to say that the head gasket and the impeller are both installed and the engine starts first pull almost everytime!

I found an order post Where Joe had given instructions on the impeller for th? exact same motor!

The only problem Now is that it seems as though After Doing the impeller, my linkage is not connecting right because it at first would not go Into reverse and Now it is stuck in forward gear, im assuming its just a Quick ajustement but i cant seem to figure it Out at this Time!

Any help is once Again Much appreciated!

Thank you,
Jean

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

The only problem Now is that my linkage is not connecting right because at first it would not go Into reverse and now it is stuck in forward gear

I edited your above post slightly so that it pertained directly to your problem.

Since the only portion of the linkage you dismantled is the linkage and small plastic retainer in back of the water intake screen, I would assume that either you failed to replace that split plastic retainer that retaines the upper rod nut... OR you have it installed upside down if that's possible. The taper must face upwards.

If you dismantled anything else pertaining to linkages etc... what was it?

Also... make sure that the threaded lower rod is screwed all the way into the lower unit.

 

[jefilly]

Re: 1985 20 HP Johnson - Very hard to pull and wont start

Well the problem was very simple, the Rod was not screwed in far enough!

Joe my motor is Now 100% th? day before Fishing season opens! Couldnt have done it without you and everyone else that has helped!

Cant Thank you guys enough for all of your help!!

Cheers,
Jean

 

[jwood422]

I have a 1972 evinrude 25hp it ran 2 years ago when I parked it. tried to start it and it acts like its locking up cant hardley pull with the rope took plugs out and it spins freely.. checked compression 30-40 in each cylinde pulled the head and did not see any bad spots on the gasket. need help

 

[racerone]

There is no way that compression can be 40 PSI in the cylinders.----But start a new thread on this motor.