or you will regret it. it is mandatory to replace the rod bolts. I have a 1995 225 now that has 3 hours on since a "rebuild" it also now has a hole in the crankcase due to a rod bolt head that is missing.when you get it all torn down is when you must decide how much and what to due. a general gude is bore all cylinders,replace wristpins,pin bearings rod bearings and at least the bottom main as it absorbs crank thrust.do the carbs. replace the fuelpump or vro pump. if oil injected clean and inpect the tank. replace all oil and fuel filters. replace the water pump. inspect the upper driveshaft bearing housing. replace all thermostat/pressure relief parts.rebuild the carbs the kits are only 16 dollars or so.I know it sounds like a bunch but a rebuild is just that. anything less is a patch and patches sometimes pop.get the manuals and study them so you know what your looking at. the cap alignment tool is very nice but not nessasary. a ring compresser is handy, mine is a blue point kit that sells for 59 dollars or so. a pair of blunted butter knives and patience will work just as well.you will need a 5/16ths 12 point socket. the rodbolt torque is about 32ft pounds. dont buy cheap here. get the snapon3/8drive.in almost 30 years of making a living with outboards I have seen maybe 2 actually wear out. the rest died a premature death due to neglect or corrsion.if you suspect a pin bearing failure then also suspect a rod failure as well<br /> the tolerance on the wear for the big end and the pin end is about .0005 inch. which is also about the wear tolerance for the crankpins and main bearing surfaces. if your not comfortable checking the wear tolerances take the parts to a machine shop with your service manual and they can do it.what ever you do dont put it back together as a fresh wore out motor. the results wont be very good and you wont be happy. this poor guy with the blown 225 is not at all. the 30 day warrenty he got is past and I am teling him about 4000 to repair it and he is crying he just spent 3800 on it. nothing I can do.good luck read the manual and if you must cut corners dont do it on the rodbolts or aftermarket gaskets.I have never had problems with aftermarket cast pistons. if you use TRW or wiesco forged then make sure you tell the machine shop so they can bore extra clearence. the new bore instructions should come with forged pistons. would also be a good idea to open up the gear case and inspect that but I imagine you will be busy with the upper so do one at a time maybe.remember with outboard motor internal parts cleanliness is not next to godliness. it is absolutly mandatory. if you do nothing else scrub and rescrub the block after all gasket surfaces are cleaned and the boring is done then make it 2 wash jobs. I use 150 degree hot water and dawn dishwashing liquid. by the time I am finnished rinsing the block is hot and a short burst of air will evaporate all the moisture.do not use a wire brush to clean any aluminium parts. I use a scotchbrite type of pad made by 3-M on a drill. rips right through the gaskets without damaging the casting.use gel seal remover on the crankcase halves. and use eye and skin protection. that is some nasty stuff.<br />good luck and I hope its all a fresh water motor 
