1985 Suzi DT140 Lower Unit removal

strataview

Cadet
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
8
It took awhile (1 year) after buying the boat for the forward gear to go, it already did not have reverse and I knew going in that I was facing a repair eventually. But, get a 1985 Wellcraft 180 Fisherman with a 2 year old floor, 2 year old rebuilt stringers, 2 year old rebuilt transom, new 40 gal alum fuel tank, free alum leaning post (uninstalled) and a totally rebuilt galvanized trailer for $2300 and you may understand my rational. Its a solid boat that takes the punishment in the Tampa Bay Skyway area without remorse.

So now that I have lost forward and the boat is gracing my back yard, I need to remove the lower unit and replace it. I have a local source for a replacement lower unit. I spoke to a repair shop briefly and they stated that there are a few things you need to know about removing the lower unit other than just pulling the attachment screws out.

This, of course he would not divulge. I am unemployed and trying to do as much of this myself as possible, so if anyone has the info that I need I would be greatly appreciative. Or if someone is willing to help at a discounted rate ($300/week unemployment doesn't cover much) in the St Pete/Tampa area would also be wonderful. I repair/replace/rebuild/upgrade PC's for a living and can trade services.

If you can help, please contact me at strataview@yahoo.com

Thanks
 

Marion Moore

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
200
Re: 1985 Suzi DT140 Lower Unit removal

Assuming yours is the same as a late model 90's...

On the leading edge of the LU just above the cavitation plate there is a plastic cap with a 10mm bolt, remove it.

Inside you will find the F/R linkage. Book says to put it in R I think but just move it around until you can get the super tiny cotter pin out. Remove the pin as well. They are tiny, don't loose them. Unplug the rubber speedometer tube if it still has one.

Remove the prop to make the LU a little easier to handle when removed. Block of wood to hold it and a 1 1/16" socket.

There should be 4 - 14mm or 15mm bolts on each side of the LU as well as one holding the anode so 9 total. I hope they come out for you. I can't say enough about removing the LU every year to exercise the bolts if nothing else. Anyway...

That should be it. No other hidden bolts or secret screws. Some tapping may be necessary or light prying if it hasn't been off in a while. Tilt it way up so it doesn't fly off and crash to the ground.

There should be some core value in the LU. You can sell it to someone for $100 or so if it is in fair shape.
 

Marion Moore

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
200
Re: 1985 Suzi DT140 Lower Unit removal

Oh, take your email off, no emails allowed!!!
 

James R

Commander
Joined
Feb 1, 2007
Messages
2,681
Re: 1985 Suzi DT140 Lower Unit removal

Not quite the same Marion.
Total of nine bolts. This includes the one that holds the rear anode.
The shift disconnect is under the plastic cover that sits on the nose of the cavitation plate. Has a long bolt thru the cover with a 10mm head. Take the cover off and remove the split pin from the connecting pin and push the pin out. Save the split pin it might still be usable. Put the motor in the tilt up position. Remove 8 bolts. Release the 9th bolt whilst holding the lower unit in place. It is quite heavy. Good idea to wear leather work gloves to get a good grip. With all the bolts removed, one hand under the lower part and one hand holding the front of the lower just below the cavitation plate support the weight of the unit and pull it out of the housing. Care not to damage anything.
 

strataview

Cadet
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
8
Re: 1985 Suzi DT140 Lower Unit removal

Thank you Marion and James, it came apart just as you said. Many many thanks. Now what do you know about Evinrude 50hp's?
 

strataview

Cadet
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
8
Re: 1985 Suzi DT140 Lower Unit removal

Back to the Suzi 140, now I am confused. I have the LU on my work bench and the top gear splines on the the shaft are clean, no nicks or shavings as i can see. However, while attached to the engine there is no forward or reverse. On the work bench the shaft will turn the prop forward and reverse!!! I don't understand....
 
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