1986 Dixie Restoration, Below Deck Fuel Line Replacement, Copper or Rubber?

[Luckyfishing]

Hello,

I'm working on repairing/restoring the rotted deck (sole) and stringers in a 1986 Dixie I/O bowrider type boat. I've run into something I am not sure how to fix. The original fuel line running from the below deck fuel tank is copper. It is badly bent and needs to be replaced before I fiberglass down the new sole over it. I'm not confident in my copper plumbing ability and I can't find anywhere in my area to get the work done.

Can the copper line be replaced with rubber fuel line in this situation?

As far as I can tell, the original design used copper below deck, then connected to a copper shot-off valve, and then transitioned to rubber fuel line when it came above deck and connected to the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump a couple of years ago and it has new rubber fuel lines.

Is there a marine building code or safety reason I should continue to use copper or could I use a rubber fuel line connected to the fuel tank?

I will attach some pictures, thank-you for taking the time.

 

[kcassells]

Only use approved coast guard fuel lines. They are a material similar to rubber but not referenced as rubber. That's a code..
Simple change out.
And oh yea....start a thread about your rehab looks like a nice boat.

 

[Luckyfishing]

Thank-you, I appreciate it. I thought I might not be using the correct term for fuel lines. Just to confirm, it is ok to use the coast guard approved fuel line (not copper) to connect directly to the tank.

Should I still include the in-line fuel shut-off valve as there currently is? I was wondering if it may be best to just run a single hose from the tank to the fuel pump. I don't ever recall using the valve to shut off fuel and thought removing it would eliminate some potential leak points.

Sorry for all the questions but this is one area I want to make sure I am doing everything just right for safety.

Thanks for the nice comment on the boat, I'll pull together some pics and start a thread. It has been a fun project and I've learned a lot. It was thanks to these forums I was able to learn what to do so I really appreciate all of the information and help that people here take the time to give.

 

[kcassells]

You will want a fuel line shut off somewhere that is easily accessible. It allows you to service engine and isolate fuel tank.

 

[froggy1150]

Also at the tank you should have a "anti siphon valve" . It's a little spring loaded thing that if your fuel line comes off all your gas done end up in bottom of boat. Not positive if it's required by code.

 

[clj]

There are several types of 'rubber' fuel lines. You want to get the low-permeation MARINE fuel line hose in the proper inside diameter (typically 5/16 or 3/8"). It is about double or more the cost of 'regular' fuel hose, but well worth the added expense. I would recommend that you put in access plates so that you can inspect the hose periodically and replace easily when necessary. Try to avoid 90 degree fittings as they clog easily. Do NOT use teflon tape on your fittings; instead use a good thread sealant that is impervious to gasoline.

Some say put in an anti siphon valve, but I have found them to be more trouble then they are worth as they have a tendency to clog shut or only partially open; especially if your fuel goes bad and starts to varnish if you have not used your boat for a while.

Double hose clamp the hose to the fittings and plumb a fuel / water separator / filter into the system if possible. You do NOT want to use a filter with a see through plastic bottom if the filter is in an enclosed area (like your engine compartment; get a filter with a metal bottom) and you need to be able to drain / change the filter element without getting fuel into your bilge. So, mount it high enough so that you can get a pan under it and away from it without spilling any fuel and you are able get the filter element removed and replaced.

 

[Grub54891]

Type A-1 marine rated fuel line. If your tank is clean, you will never have a problem with an anti-syphon valve. Its recommended to have one, and safer for you and any passengers onboard. I'd rather deal with a anti-syphon valve than be dead. A shut off valve is handy, but the anti-syphon valve should work.

 

[alldodge]

The old boats used a lot of copper fuel line. Can still be used in certain areas but in your case not necessary

No need for shut off valve with anitsiphon, and antisiphon is required by current regs. The antisiphon valve will keep fuel from running if filter is removed or line breaks.

Agree, A-1 fuel line can be used​

 

[Chris1956]

I would carefully check that fuel tank to make sure it is not corroding. Those aluminum tanks will develop pin hole leaks over time, and your boat (1986) has had it's time.

Newer tanks are plastic and should last forever.

 

[kcassells]

Since i'm on the subject here's a read to sleep by;
https://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

 

[Luckyfishing]

Thank-you everyone for the help and the great information! I'll definitely use A1 coast guard rated line. I'm thinking the anti-siphon valve is a good idea.

You've got me thinking about the pinhole leaks though. I had the tank cleaned and tested a while back, but now that I think about it that was about 10 years ago. Everything looks ok that I can see but I have been smelling gas also. I attributed the smell to the fuel vent on the side of the boat since I didn't see any leaking fuel, but it may be possible that just the vapors are leaking at this point. Since I'm replacing the deck, it would be an ideal time to replace the tank.

I'll probably try to do the work myself and then pay a marine mechanic to inspect my work for safety.

Thank-you all again for the help, I really appreciate it.

 

[Grub54891]

On my boat, when I got it you could smell fuel, could not find any leaks, but some of it could have been from previous leaks that saturated in the foam, when I pulled the tank and rebuilt the boat I tested the tank, it was good. The fill and vent hoses were original, and even laying on the shop floor you could smell the fuel saturated into the Rubber itself.

 

[alldodge]

Smelling fuel, I would suggest pulling tank. You can then inspect and see what is needed. I pulled mine and while it didn't have a hole, it did have spots that were ready to give out, so it was replaced

 

[mickyryan]

if it is a plastic tank you will smell fuel oddly enough newer tanks have liners of nylon that keep it in so if you do replace tank use a nylon lined one and there is a nylon bedliner material "duplicolor" sucks for bedliner but great for painting a plastic tank with to help keep fumes down, the human nose can smell fuel at suck low levels compared to what is ignitable,there is a gas fume tool for checking fittings and stuff that i used , well worth the money

 

[kcassells]

Put a 2# pressure test on it. That's all.