1986 force engine 85 HP 1 cylynder not firing

[deanr6761]

hello, I am dumfounded on my 1985 Force 85 HP outboard not firing in one cylinder, I have good compression all around and have replaced stator, power pack, & trigger assembly but still no fire in 1 cylinder, everyone says let this die and put out to pasture but I'm not to sure, anybody seen this issue before?

 

[SkiDad]

almost sounds like a bad connection to that coil. I know in 1985 they had those press together connections. I would check those. It also could be the one power pack short circuiting other one. See these pages below for how to isolate it.

http://www.outboardignition.com/support/116-5301.pdf

http://www.outboardignition.com/support/176-5095.pdf

 

[Jiggz]

A cylinder not firing can generally be caused by the following:
1. Loss of compression - CHECK
2. Loss of spark - Do you have spark?
3. Lack of fuel delivery - Is the carb delivering fuel to the affected cylinder?
4. Insufficient air-fuel mixture - Have you checked the reeds, bad reeds will not affect compression.
5. Water leaking from the exhaust port (this is tricky as it will not affect compression but depending on the extent of the leak, yes it can affect combustion.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Gotta know the compression #s ?
Check spark ?
Where are the air/fuel screws set? start at 1 1/2 turn out and then adjust from there.
Usually the 85 works best at 1 to 1 1/4- 1 1/2 turns out but I have a customer that the screws needed to be at 3 full turns out before it would even start?

Top carb: you can get a wrench in and loosen the bottom screw and see if fuel comes out of the carb, pump the ball and see if it pumps out.

Try swapping the top pack for the bottom and see if that helps?

 

[deanr6761]

have replaced stator, power pack, & trigger assembly but still no fire in 1 cylinder I have 135 psi each cylinder, could it be bad wiring pack not delivering spark?

 

[pnwboat]

Could be a wiring issue, but it's not uncommon for a bad CD Module to interfere with a good module making it appear as though the good module is bad. Try disconnecting the wires on the CD Module that fires #3 cylinder. Crank the motor over and see if spark returns to #1 cylinder. If spark returns, then the module that you disconnected is the bad one. If no change, then take a look at the wiring.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors and visually inspect them. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet. Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicated a possible problem with the rectifier.

IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER: Disconnect kill wire AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger. Measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, readings should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 - 800 ohms. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER: Check stator and trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), stator reads 680-800 ohms, DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow. If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the other pack.