1987 Evinrude 20HP Stoppped charging the battery need help

[AC2717]

Hi Guys, newbie for a while and have been lurking for a while. Have a question I couldn't find an answer for
model is E20ELCUR and is electric start and does charge the battery.

With this in mind and having to take the fly wheel off, I figured I would just replace everything that had to do with the charging system and also probably the starting system as well (replaced the starter last year). The engine runs great and there are no idle problems or anything like that, just not charging the battery.
My questions are is:
what do I need for parts?
magneto on that plate?
the rectifier?
what else?

or I just buy a completed plate assembly?


I am pretty handy and have done all sorts of mechanical stuff so it wont be hard for me, just need the directions and parts, I am unsure of what to exactly replace, I know I need a puller to take the fly wheel off.

thank you so much

 

[oldboat1]

http://www.iboats.com/Ignition/dm/cart_id.229786371--session_id.268258880--view_id.1547993

If the motor is starting and running well, you can just address the charging issue -- very likely the rectifier, #3 in the diagram. If the motor was run with the battery disconnected, disconnected while running, polarity briefly reversed at some point, the diodes in the rectifier are probably burned out. It can be tested with a multimeter.

You do not need to remove the flywheel to replace the rectifier.

Keep in mind that the charging does not begin until the motor is operated at 2-3000 rpm, give or take.

 

[AC2717]

http://www.iboats.com/Ignition/dm/*******.229786371--**********.268258880--view_id.1547993

If the motor is starting and running well, you can just address the charging issue -- very likely the rectifier, #3 in the diagram. If the motor was run with the battery disconnected, disconnected while running, polarity briefly reversed at some point, the diodes in the rectifier are probably burned out. It can be tested with a multimeter.

You do not need to remove the flywheel to replace the rectifier.

Keep in mind that the charging does not begin until the motor is operated at 2-3000 rpm, give or take.

thank you very much for the info, yes I can run the motor without the battery attached, this past Saturday, had the battery tested and they kept it, and I happen to have my jump pack with me, so I connected to the cables, jumped the motor, and then pulled the pack off the cables and it ran without a hiccup or performance issue could have ran around all day as long as I did not turn it off - was kinda my backyard test to see if there was anything else other than the charging system

so you think just the rectifier and I should be good?

 

[oldboat1]

Don't run it without a charged battery attached. Good bet is the rectifier.

 

[F_R]

No Title

Don't go crazy replacing everything. In all probability, the rectifier is blown. That will instantly happen if you run it with the battery disconnected, or connected backwards. You can test it. That is a 3-phase rectifier and there are 6 diodes in it, and all must be tested forward and reverse. That's 12 tests and it must pass each and every one.

 

[AC2717]

Don't go crazy replacing everything. In all probability, the rectifier is blown. That will instantly happen if you run it with the battery disconnected, or connected backwards. You can test it. That is a 3-phase rectifier and there are 6 diodes in it, and all must be tested forward and reverse. That's 12 tests and it must pass each and every one.

thank you for the info as well, my battery had died two weekends in a row, so I thought the battery might have been bad the first time, so second time after I jumped it I steamed over to the marina I bought it from and had them charge it and run a test, I hooked up the jump pack and started it and steamed back to my dock, was probably about a 1/4 mile

so if it wasn't already the rectifier it is now I guess, oh well