itchyfishnv
Seaman
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2016
- Messages
- 59
This is my first post here but I've been creeping as a non-member on here for years and always seem to find the right answers/advice I'm looking for- so thank you in advance, everyone.
So, I recently replaced the carb on my 1987 (Stingray SVB 176 SS). I've owned the boat forever and always done the maintenance myself. So while I was waiting for the new carb to arrive I decided to change the t-stat. So, I'm taking the upper housing off and one of the bolts snaps into the housing- totally rusted, I couldn't get it out. So I buy a new upper and lower thermostat housing as well as a new thermostat. It comes in the same day as the carb, I get everything back together, Fire her up and I noticed it's running a lot hotter than normal. Take it to the lake to test, immediately overheats over 2000 rpm. So, I couldn't figure out what it was because I just assumed it couldn't be the circulation pump. My riser and manifold is in great shape and I replace the impeller in the drive every season. I had normal water flow from transom to the housing... So at this point I get fed up and drop it off at the marina. They said water flow was fine to the thermostat housing from the drive but not flushing through the block as it should. They pull the circulation pump off the block and notice what they said to be a "nail". Light bulb goes off in my head- coil in the water pump hose broke. Sure enough, it was rusted and a piece fell into the circulation pump causing cavitation. I've read all over the place that circ. pumps rarely ever break. In my case it didn't break but it was surely clogged by the coil in the water pump hose. I'm running the hose with no coil in it, and a water pump with obstructions to the impeller and it runs fine and doesn't overheat whatsoever. I really wish that I took the pump off myself before bringing it to the marina but, live and learn. Hoping someone can learn from my mistake. Also, don't ever squeeze that hose with the coil in it, because I'm sure I did checking for water flow and that's how the coil broke
Thanks everyone for your help over the years,
Nick
So, I recently replaced the carb on my 1987 (Stingray SVB 176 SS). I've owned the boat forever and always done the maintenance myself. So while I was waiting for the new carb to arrive I decided to change the t-stat. So, I'm taking the upper housing off and one of the bolts snaps into the housing- totally rusted, I couldn't get it out. So I buy a new upper and lower thermostat housing as well as a new thermostat. It comes in the same day as the carb, I get everything back together, Fire her up and I noticed it's running a lot hotter than normal. Take it to the lake to test, immediately overheats over 2000 rpm. So, I couldn't figure out what it was because I just assumed it couldn't be the circulation pump. My riser and manifold is in great shape and I replace the impeller in the drive every season. I had normal water flow from transom to the housing... So at this point I get fed up and drop it off at the marina. They said water flow was fine to the thermostat housing from the drive but not flushing through the block as it should. They pull the circulation pump off the block and notice what they said to be a "nail". Light bulb goes off in my head- coil in the water pump hose broke. Sure enough, it was rusted and a piece fell into the circulation pump causing cavitation. I've read all over the place that circ. pumps rarely ever break. In my case it didn't break but it was surely clogged by the coil in the water pump hose. I'm running the hose with no coil in it, and a water pump with obstructions to the impeller and it runs fine and doesn't overheat whatsoever. I really wish that I took the pump off myself before bringing it to the marina but, live and learn. Hoping someone can learn from my mistake. Also, don't ever squeeze that hose with the coil in it, because I'm sure I did checking for water flow and that's how the coil broke
Thanks everyone for your help over the years,
Nick