1987 mercury 75

redneck joe

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ok serial number is confirmed as a B. Found on another forum that they stamp the freeze plug.

B218795
 

redneck joe

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also that the flywheel cover is three, not four wingnuts putting it to an 87.
 

redneck joe

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and finally, verified here.





Now, just noticed clicking when spinning in neutral so going to disconnect the shift cables and see if that fixes it.
 

redneck joe

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OK disconnected shift cables and manually shift under the hood and acts just like my running 50 so I think I'm good there?

Side note, the thingies z(little log looking things) that clamps into the trunion (think I got that right) were zip tied into place....
 

redneck joe

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I know lots of posts, just documenting and asking questions.

We've been turning over the motor with a jump box, no batteries in the boat. I hooked up my batteries and instantly wires got hot. Disconnected the battery and other than a bit of smoke all good.

The solenoid appeard to gave been recently replaced (all shiny and clean).

Thoughts?
 

redneck joe

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Looks like the solenoid was replaced with one for a trim system. Correct one be here tomorrow.

Speaking of trim... during researching all this I think I can say this motor never had tilt and trim on it. No solenoids for that under the hood and e tra wires on the harness. That actuator add on was just that, an add on.
 

redneck joe

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OK I took a class in high school circa 1080 so I think I know what all this is. Was it to determine what block it was?
 

Mc Tool

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OK I took a class in high school circa 1080 so I think I know what all this is. Was it to determine what block it was?
Nah more as a recipe for modification or determining if porting has been modified ,which could be a deal breaker if your trying to resto a classic .
Some tuners publish their port maps so others can copy their results , you can now get silicone castings of the actual port runners , both 2 and 4 stroke so you can emulate them as well .🙂
 

redneck joe

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The crap boat is gone, motor on stand in the garage. That will wait until this winter, have to focus on leak and new floor. The perfectly running 50 will get me thru this year.

I dislike the split cover even more than the metal band...
 

redneck joe

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OK screwing around with this today, got the cowl stuff corrected so now at least that works.

Hooked up the second black wire that was not connected to the starter and when I try to jump the solenoid lots of sparks, too many and no starter engagement. I've jumped a black max 150 a couple times and about once a month on my Ford.

Tried directly to starter and no joy, just sparks.

Plugged in controls and used key, just a click.

Hammer marks on the starter so assuming froze up. When I bought this spring we did battery direct to starter for the compression test so guessing he tapped it before i got there.

The starting solenoid appears to be wired correctly.

Best way to tell if starter is in fact bad?
 
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