1987 OMC having sudden problems

Joined
Aug 18, 2015
Messages
8
Hey guys, hoping someone can point me in the right direction here. I recently acquired a new boat... a 19' Jason Voyager 1900 with a 4.3 OMC inboard.

Ran like a dream when I first got it... put 3 full tanks of gas through it without so much as a hiccup in the motor.

Then the last time I took it out, the cover/door to access the motor completely flew off the boat on the highway as I was going to the lake. Screws ripped out of the rotted wood. Then when I got to the lake, I forgot to put the drain plug in and put quite a bit of water in the boat before I realized and turned on the bilge pump and pulled the boat out of the water (was still on trailer warming up)... drained the boat, plugged it and put it back in the water. Just mentioning anything that was "different" than my usual trip. Not sure if the wind or something could have possibly threw my carb off (doesn't seem likely, but.... maybe it pushed gunk from the filter into the carb... maybe water got in it... i dunno.)

Now, I could tell almost right away something was "off". It was very minimal, but it could kinda bog out at full throttle intermittently. As in, it'd run at 4000 (for example, not sure exactly what RPM) for 10-15 seconds then drop down to oh say, 3500 RPM before going back to where it should be. Boat ran around 55 mph on the water for 3 full tanks...was only running around 45-50 at first.

Symptoms worsened while on the water. Got to the point where I could only run about 30 mph at full throttle, and the intermittent bogging/loss of power became more pronounced. Running around 2800-3200 RPM at full throttle and bogging down to like 1200 RPM, and much more frequently not quite violently accelerating/decelerating but you definitely wanted to be seated. Crawled it to the ramp even though I was in full throttle... to anyone else it just looked/sounded like I was throttling up and down, just screwing around. B

Pretty much the gist of it right there. There's crud built up inside the carb, so I'm assuming that's my issue right there. Cleaned it best I could with carb cleaner without actually removing it (don't have the gaskets to replace, yet) and pulled my plugs and cleaned those with a wire brush before re-installing. It runs a *little* better... but it ran like that when I launched last time and symptoms got worse over time.

Haven't even done a tune up or anything on it yet, and since I just got it last week I'll end up replacing all the plugs, filters, and give it an oil change.

Is the prop supposed to *SLOWLY* spin in neutral? I can grab it and stop it and spin it backwards or whatever without any resistance, it just spins a little bit on its own whenever its it neutral. I mean at like 20 RPM or something. Just wondering if that could be something that's causing an issue... kinda like a grabby clutch plates can cause starting/idling issues in dirtbikes.

Been a good solid boat for me for 3 full tanks of gas like I said. The only issues are some wood rot in the deck.... can kind of be expected from a 28 year old boat, though. Very sudden issue, assuming its probably the carb. Would y'all agree?

This is only my second boat. My first boat is a little 14' V hull aluminum with a 6hp outboard. My fishin' boat. So I guess you could say this is my first "real" boat. Need to get it purring again before I drop $$ on toys/tubes for this thing.
 

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southkogs

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Welcome aboard:

Carb is as good a place as any to start, though you may want to check your throttle and fuel lines too. Maybe when the lid blew off it hit something on it's way?

Make sure your oil isn't lookin' milky too after floodin' it out. With a rotting deck, I would have some concerns about the boat being water logged which would contribute to speed and stability problems.
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,260
Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... My guess is there's "Stuff" other than gasoline in the fuel system, probably from the tank to the carb,....

Check the Contents of the fuel filter for evidence 1st,....

Rebuildin' the carb is a given, full tear down, soak, clean, blow out, 'n rebuild might save it,....

With a fresh filter on, hook a remote tank to the filter/ fuel pump, 'n try it,...
That'll eliminate the boat side of the system, leavin' the fuel pump, 'n carb to diagnose,....
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2015
Messages
8
Thanks for the replies, guys! Before I even saw this I did a couple things:

-Put a bottle of Lucas Oil fuel system deep cleaner into the tank.
-Replaced all plugs.

Started raining after that so that's all I could get done yesterday. It's definitely possible that the cover hit something, however it was already clear of the motor when it ripped off (blew open so it was straight up and the wind from traveling 65mph took care of the rest.) Saw it all happen in my rearview mirror. Cover stays strapped down now.

Next up for me is going to be an oil change to see if water got into the motor, then the carb rebuild once I order/receive my gasket kit along with all new filters. Will definitely try running it from another tank (conveniently have a portable 3 gallon for my aluminum boat)

As for rotted wood - its not really too bad, but what do I know? The wood the motor is mounted to is solid. The deck is pretty solid except for one area, and the motor cover was rotted where the screws/hinges attached. My gut tells me that 28 years worth of water made its way inside some well-sealed lumber via cracks/screws/etc and just slowly rotted away in certain places over time. The boat doesn't leak at all, there are a few holes on the transom that have been patched with silicone or something, but all are above the water line. If this is something to be concerned about, do let me know. Otherwise I was planning on replacing the wood maybe this winter. Or at least re-enforcing the rotted areas. Will likely be replacing the motor cover with a fresh sheet of marine plywood.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2015
Messages
8
Also is there an easy way to identify exactly which motor I have? Several versions of the 4.3 OMC out there and I'm not sure which I need to be ordering parts for.
 

Bondo

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Also is there an easy way to identify exactly which motor I have? Several versions of the 4.3 OMC out there and I'm not sure which I need to be ordering parts for.

Ayuh,.... The main differences are 2bbl carb, or 4bbl. carb, but you should order parts by the serial number,....
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,610
If the water got up to the level of the starter, you will need to pull it and replace or take it apart and clean it all out. If you don't, it will fail at a later time.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2015
Messages
8
Well, I got a little more work in... just as it started raining. I was checking out my carb, and while it DOES need a good cleaning.... there was condensation/water droplets in it. The question is, how did they get there....

If my tank was cracked and took on water when it was (briefly) flooded, it should be leaking fuel into the boat. It's not. Boat is angled so anything is going to settle where the motor is, there is no fuel leaking, no odors of fuel, nothing.

Either way, I pulled the rear seat and everything out and was just about to expose the tank when the skies opened and started dumping down, so I covered it back up until tomorrow. Gonna inspect the tank and all connections and fuel line for cracks. Will likely drain the fuel and replace it, mixed with HEET and Lucas Oil fuel system cleaner.

Not sure where water would be getting in at otherwise.... gas cap/vent, possibly I suppose. Water in the fuel would explain the issues I'm having though.

On the positive side, replacing the rotted wood is going to be a much easier job than I was anticipating. I'll be able to pull the entire deck and just use the current pieces as a template. Trace, cut, replace. And I found a really good upholstery guy who's came recommended to me by 4 different people, so I'll be getting all new vinyl on everything.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2015
Messages
8
Is it just me, or does $420 seem a little steep for a carb rebuild? Pretty sure I could buy a "bolt on and go" carb for about half that price and the 15-20 mins it takes to bolt it on.
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Yes, $420 seems steep. I was once quoted $400 to rebuild my 4 bbl Rochester Quadra-Jet. I got a reman thru iBoats for $275.

As for droplets of water in the interior of the carb; no biggie. There's vacuum present and condensation will occur at lower temperatures.

Water in the gas; you *should* have a "water separating" spin-on fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump, no?
 
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