I recently acquired an '87 DT85. The motor had a known issue when I bought it - it overheated at higher RPM (3500+). I hoped that with a little effort, I could resolve the issue. Unfortunately, that has not proven to be the case and I'm out of ideas.
The motor is currently installed on a 16' aluminum deep-v hull. The motor is mounted a bit higher than recommended - the cavitation plate is even with the bottom of the hull. I've checked that the cavitation plate remains underwater at all times when the boat is running. I'm running in fresh water.
After running for a few minutes at higher RPM, the high temp alarm will sound. When I throttle back the motor will quickly cool off. The motor runs well at all speeds, and won't overheat at low to moderate RPM.
Here's what I've tried and what I've looked at:
-compression on all three cylinders is good, 140-155psi
-spark plugs appear normal when removed - they are not white - no indication of running lean
-I've circumvented the oil pump and am running mixed fuel
-I've machined the head, cylinder face of the block and exhaust manifold face to insure good, flat surfaces
-All threaded holes have been inserted to insure that I can get good torque
-The head gasket, exhaust manifold gaskets and motor mounting gaskets have all been replaced
-The water pump has been replaced and all the wear surfaces in the pump housing appear to be in good condition
-The poppet valve and spring have been replaced
-The thermostat opens in hot water. I've also run the motor without the t-stat and it still overheats.
-I have not verified that the thermal switch closes at the right temp (to sound the alarm), but the block and head are too hot to touch for long when the alarm sounds so it appears to be working properly
-All of the cooling channels have been investigated for obstructions and none have been found
-There seems to be an adequate volume of water leaving the 'pee hole' and exhaust ports. The water leaving the 'pee hole' is warm.
-The overheating seems to be localized at the top cylinder - its much hotter than the lower two cylinders
I'm out of ideas. The only other thing that I can think of is that the block has a crack somewhere which is allowing exhaust gas to impede the cooling water at higher RPM.
If anyone has any thoughts on what else I could try, I'd sure be grateful. Otherwise, I guess I'll just part this thing out and try to get as much of my money back as I can.
The motor is currently installed on a 16' aluminum deep-v hull. The motor is mounted a bit higher than recommended - the cavitation plate is even with the bottom of the hull. I've checked that the cavitation plate remains underwater at all times when the boat is running. I'm running in fresh water.
After running for a few minutes at higher RPM, the high temp alarm will sound. When I throttle back the motor will quickly cool off. The motor runs well at all speeds, and won't overheat at low to moderate RPM.
Here's what I've tried and what I've looked at:
-compression on all three cylinders is good, 140-155psi
-spark plugs appear normal when removed - they are not white - no indication of running lean
-I've circumvented the oil pump and am running mixed fuel
-I've machined the head, cylinder face of the block and exhaust manifold face to insure good, flat surfaces
-All threaded holes have been inserted to insure that I can get good torque
-The head gasket, exhaust manifold gaskets and motor mounting gaskets have all been replaced
-The water pump has been replaced and all the wear surfaces in the pump housing appear to be in good condition
-The poppet valve and spring have been replaced
-The thermostat opens in hot water. I've also run the motor without the t-stat and it still overheats.
-I have not verified that the thermal switch closes at the right temp (to sound the alarm), but the block and head are too hot to touch for long when the alarm sounds so it appears to be working properly
-All of the cooling channels have been investigated for obstructions and none have been found
-There seems to be an adequate volume of water leaving the 'pee hole' and exhaust ports. The water leaving the 'pee hole' is warm.
-The overheating seems to be localized at the top cylinder - its much hotter than the lower two cylinders
I'm out of ideas. The only other thing that I can think of is that the block has a crack somewhere which is allowing exhaust gas to impede the cooling water at higher RPM.
If anyone has any thoughts on what else I could try, I'd sure be grateful. Otherwise, I guess I'll just part this thing out and try to get as much of my money back as I can.